New Blaster Owner Questions

[tgreenwood75]

Hey guys,
New to blasters and the forum and i have a couple questions. I traded a snowmobile for a 2003 blaster that runs great, and is cosmetically decent but that I want to fix and change a couple things on. It has a dg full exhaust and everybody says those arent very good but it came on it so it will stay for now. First off it has no back breaks, the foot lever is there and the rotor and caliper are there but nothing in between... What do i need? second, it doesnt smoke at all, it is premix and i know that these run 32:1 but io dont know what the guy before me had in there so i will add some properly mixed gas and see how it is then but is there any possible outside factors? Third, I know i should do a leakdown and compression test, do you suggest i buy the stuff to do those myself or bring it somewhere? how much would it cost if i brought it somewhere? fourth, what kickstarters fit on these because the one on it sucks and folds out into you r leg while riding. Fifth, the steering feels like the bars might be turned a little bit when the wheels are straight but i cant see the difference. Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[Blaaster]

One can buy a leak tester from a guy on this forum of you can get the parts and build yourself.

You can get a replacement spring and ball for the kick start.

Mix at 32/1 and make sure that the carb is jetted for the DG.

 

[Herpderplol]

First off it has no back breaks, the foot lever is there and the rotor and caliper are there but nothing in between... What do i need?
second, it doesnt smoke at all, it is premix and i know that these run 32:1 but io dont know what the guy before me had in there so i will add some properly mixed gas and see how it is then but is there any possible outside factors?
Third, I know i should do a leakdown and compression test, do you suggest i buy the stuff to do those myself or bring it somewhere? how much would it cost if i brought it somewhere?
fourth, what kickstarters fit on these because the one on it sucks and folds out into you r leg while riding.
Fifth, the steering feels like the bars might be turned a little bit when the wheels are straight but i cant see the difference. Thanks in advance for your help!

first- sounds like you just need a brake line. maybe PO extended the swinger and stock wouldnt cut it?
second- is the oil tank still on the quad? if so its injecting oil not for premixing. by the sounds of the PO i would look into full removal OR bleeding lines
third- member @Awk08 sells leak testers for a reasonable $35. you can rent a compression tester. both easy enough for you to do yourself
fourth- member @Awk08 also sells a little spring and ball to fix the floppy kicker thread called "floppy kicker fix" somewhere. $10
fifth- you might be able to adjust tie rods. or buy replacements. stand the quad up on the back end (remove/empty gas tank) and check for bent frame

 

[tgreenwood75]

the oil tank is removed so i am sure that it is just premix and what should the main jet be with a dg pipe and otherwise stock?

 

[tgreenwood75]

and also are these dry filters or do you oil them because mine is dry right now but i have filter oil for my dirtbikes

 

[speedyslyder]

and also are these dry filters or do you oil them because mine is dry right now but i have filter oil for my dirtbikes

if it is a foam filter then yes lightly oil it with the foam filter oil you have.
if it is a cotton filter they have a different oil for that i think comes in a spray bottle/even though you can buy foam filter oil in a spray as well...EX k&n is cotton.

also i like to dry my filters with a hairdryer/after cleaning

oil tank is removed....make sure the oil injection nipple on carb is blocked off

 

[nick20555]

Well every quad is different but members on here can give you a good estimate on where to start with jetting but they would need to know things like temperature, elevation, and all mods, including things like airbox lid removal or any little things like that could effect it.

And I'm thinking that all atv or dirt bike filters should be oiled unless stated otherwise. It also depends on if it's a foam, paper, or anything else to know what kind of oil to use on the filter. Example: k&n filter oil should never be used on foam filters and the other way around.

 

[Herpderplol]

Post a picture of the right side of your carb. We should make sure the oil injection nipple is properly blocked off

 

[dirtysquared]

Look for a replacement rear break line. American star sells good replacements for a reasonable price. Also don't forget you'll need 4 copper crush washers,2 banjo bolts and some patients to bleed it out!

Welcome to the forum BTW.

 

[tgreenwood75]

Ok, i will clean and oil my filter and it came with a parts frame and tons of parts so i will try to find all the brake parts i can and order the rest. I will post a pic of the carb when i get home and i will try to pull it apart and see the main jet size and see if people think it sounds right. it has the dg full exhaust and a drilled out filter cover, i ride in temps between 65-85 at low elevation, probably 200 feet max

 

[tgreenwood75]

ok, so i got a lot of work done on it today and came up with some new questions. the bottom chain roller mount is snapped off, can i just take a link or two out to tighten it up and run it that way? also, i can not figure out these rear brakes for the life of me. anyone got some pics of how theirs look? I attached pics of what i have.
Thanks.

 

[Herpderplol]

no, do not take links out and tighten the chain. you could snap it and wreck a case. which are rare and expensive

 

[jus_me]

What rear brake is that?

 

[tgreenwood75]

I figured the rear brake was stock... it came with a ton of other parts. What do you recommend for the chain then?

 

[bummer981]

You can adjust the chain with the adjusters on the rear carrier.

 

[tgreenwood75]

the adjusters dont get it anywhere close to tight... i cant tell the difference between fully adjusted and without the adjuster bolt even in.

 

[Awk08]

the bottom chain roller mount is snapped off,

The aftermarket chain rollers require the posts to be cut off, just get a double roller one off eBay or rmatv for like $10 each.

As for the loose chain, is it new ? Maybe just needs cut to size. if its not new it may be stretched beyond limit, time for new chain & sprockets.

 

[Larry's Shee]

With chain anywhere close to tight, if you can pull chain half the depth of teeth away from sprocket, you need new set.

Pic of rear cali?

 

[tgreenwood75]

I dont have a pic of it but it is the stock 03-up nissin caliper and the chain can deffinately be pulled more than a half tooth off but the sprockets arent too worn and there is no grinding or skipping when rolling it backwards

 

[Blaaster]

You can tell if the chain is worn by pushing up on the chain in the middle (between the sprockets) with one hand, while pulling on the chain at the rear sprocket. If you can pull the chain out from the sprocket much at all, say 1/4" or more, the chain is worn out. Another way is to measure the total length of the chain, when new, and replace it when it has lengthened by 2 1/2 %. You will also find that a worn chain is hard to adjust because some spots will be tight and others loose. You will want to adjust the chain slack when the chain is at its tightest. If you find that the chain has stretched so much that there is no more adjustment, simply take out two rollers.
Now that we are talking about chain and sprocket wear, the question arises... how much is too much ? If you are removing rollers, you are already well past the "Worn Out" stage and into the "Total Garbage" stage. But, how much is too much ?
To get the answer, we need to consider several things. How much horse power do we have ? If the bike has a lot of suds the danger of chain breakage goes way up. When a chain brakes, it normally shoots one end through the crankcase. This can be quite expensive. If the chain jumps off the sprocket it can lock up the rear wheel. If you are going really fast, even if you are not going fast, this can be very exciting. Also painful.
If you are willing to live with the breakage and lockup risk, you can run the chain and sprockets untill the teeth get bent and rounded so bad the chain jumps teeth on the sprocket.
Now, this is not the best thing to do but it can be done. Is there some sort of steel chain guard in front of the sprocket ?
This could protect the crankcase in the event of a chain failure. Could you make one ? Is your health insurance paid up ? All in all, the best thing to do is replace the chain and sprockets and then keep them well oiled.