Need help with carb

BmxnBlasters

New Member
Nov 29, 2013
197
3
23
Northern Indiana
I have just installed some new parts on my blaster and need a larger carb size. I do not know where to go really. I am leaning towards a 35mm lectron or pwk airstryker. What mm should I run and what would benefit low end power the most?

Performance mods:

Vitos +3mm stroker crank
Flotek agg trail ported top end and head rechambered/milled for +3 clearance.
Full dmc pipe
V force 4 reed cage/reeds
Wiseco forged pro lite piston
Vitos high compression gaskets
Cfm air box with uni pod filter

I think that is it for performance mods? I am sure i am forgetting some little things.

What do you guys think?
 
34mm keihin pj carb or a 35mm keihin pwk airstryker carb will suit you nicely. I have a 34mm pj for sale if interested.
 
I am not going to get into a tussle with the drag guru, but if you are looking at low end grunt, the stock 26mm Mikuni will give you everything you need.

The DMC is not going to perform well with a large carby, it is a low/mid pipe.

If you are looking for top end power, then go for a large carby and a pipe that supports it.
 
I still would like to see that proven.. Why would you port the engine and have a higher flowing filter etc if a larger carb didnt help as well!! Its the only thing holding you back in my opinion. I would try the 35mm and show us the results. Sometimes pure flow helps if the carb can still atomize the fuel its all good thats what the slide is for - low mid throttle.
 
I still would like to see that proven.. Why would you port the engine and have a higher flowing filter etc if a larger carb didnt help as well!! Its the only thing holding you back in my opinion. I would try the 35mm and show us the results. Sometimes pure flow helps if the carb can still atomize the fuel its all good thats what the slide is for - low mid throttle.
Have you ever heard of this little thing called velocity, the smaller carb has higher velocity in the bottom end there for allowing the engine to get more fuel air charge in the bottom end were you want your power, sure a bigger carb will make the bike overall faster but its gonna suffer greatly on the bottom end because that big carb only has the airspeed it needs to be happy once the engine is higher in the rpm an demanding more air. Its all about your riding style and terrain you ride on.

OP ask Denny what he recommends for a carb, I have a similar engine setup also done by flotek an I was gonna run a pwk 33, an Denny said id be happier with a pwk 28 reworked to a 30, which is also whats on my flotek stock bore stock stroke engine, an its perfect, Denny wont steer you wrong, just call an talk to him
 
Thanks guys. I did contact denny and he said a 28 bored to a 30 and i want more low end. I ride trails and race xc occasionally. I will try out the stocker jetted and plug chopped of course and report back. If that does not work out then I will try a 28 and have him bore it to a 30. This engine should be making low to mid 30s in horsepower. I will report back :)
 
If you want to move the power to come on earlier using the stock 26mm carb, fit a reed spacer block between the reeds and the cylinder, and/or advance the timing 4 deg.
 
The DMC is not going to perform well with a large carby, it is a low/mid pipe.

If you are looking for top end power, then go for a large carby and a pipe that supports it.
now how does that make sense? Bottom
End pipe with small carb makes all bottom end power. Top end pipe with big carb makes all top power. Bottom end pipe with large carb makes power all the way around.
30mm is the way to go.
 
Mostly it is about the pipe. The powerband range is controlled by how the pipe is tuned, certain carbs work better with certain pipes, but no pipe will give you power all the way around unless you have a 4stroke
 
I have the same setup on my black bike with a pj 34 but a toomey pipe.. that bike runs great with that carb!! I dont know about the dmc pipe but I would at least put pwk28mm on that bike.. if you wanna run a bigger carb we can trade toomey for dmc? Id like to try the dmc pipe..
 
So i just got a 28mm mikuni off of a kx85. I had it bored to a 30 and just got done messing with my jetting and i think i have it dialed in. It has a ton of bottom end and I LOVE IT. Thanks guys. It pulls harder in the trailers then my 450r.
 
You sure thats not a keihin pwk? The pwk 28s I have are from m85, bought 2 of them brand new in box off here. Anyways, i knew that bike would run amazing with a 28 bored to 30, im glad your happy, are you happy with denny's work?
 
Its a keihin pwk from a kx85. Not a mikuni, my bad. I have worked with denny before, he built my cr250 motor and all my other porting work ive had done by esr. They built my trx250r motor and my atc250r motor. I like denny's work a lot and I like the performance it puts out. I love my blaster engine for what it is.
 
My 2 cents here...

Timing should be left stock for more bottom end power unless the Blaster has a huge bore with a terrible dome, which it doesn't in either case. The advanced timing is to allow your combustion to reach peak pressure at the right time, which is never at top dead center, it'll always be after. Since your AFM burns at a static rate (all other things static), it always takes X amount of time to burn, give or take depending on circumstances. If you sacrifice a bit of pressure ATDC so that pressure BTDC drops much more, you'll make a lot of power.

The reason for this is that if you shoot for a bit more pressure on the after side, you're drastically increasing pumping requirements and losing power. If you take any engine and put it on the dyno and advance the timing until it starts to fall off, it will make more power on top than stock. If you re-cut the head to the best design possible and run the same timing, you WILL have to retard the timing to see peak power. With that re-cut head, I'd stay with stock timing.

As for the carb, again, you want to see a dyno. Generally, I like to look at peak torque. Outside of the powerband, a smaller carb will produce more power below peak torque. A larger carb will produce more power above the powerband. In addition, the larger carb will likely push the powerband to the right. Luckily for you, this has been done before. 30-33 range should be about right for you. A 28 has a cross section area of 615mm^2. A 30 has a cross section area of 707mm^2.

To maintain the same velocity characteristics in that region, calculate your main jet size increase from stock in percentage then multiply by .5 and then your displacement increase in percentage and then multiply all that by your stock figure for a 28 (615). Using that, I'm coming up with a little over 800, which means a 32mm carb. From there, go up and down for more top end or bottom end, respectively.

Amartin_72, I see what you're saying, but you're looking at this in the wrong light. Even if you're looking at it in a fluid dynamics type of way, you're looking at laminar flow, which is the opposite of everything with a 2 stroke. Everything flows every which of way on every reciprocation. A smaller carb will increase velocity, allowing the reeds to stay open for longer due to momentum (even through increasing pressure in the crankcase) and contributing to a slight supercharging effect.

As Blaaster stated, a reed spacer will give more bottom end power. It will also spread the power around a bit. On the other hand, it will take that 2-stroke hit away just a tad.
 
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