my damage report

[yes se-r]

decided to make this a new thread so you can find all the info right on top,

ok status report, i didnt do a leak test but im pretty sure it was the head gasket since it was a little funky looking.. pulled everything apart, and its the bottom end.

jetting was 50 on the pilot, 155 main. 3rd clip.

piston is dark but doesnt look too bad, just has some carbon and oil on it.
the crank is very dark and doesnt really wanna move
as far as the cylinder walls they look fine. and the piston rings are still perfect so it should be fine.
pics: cylinder walls

piston, looks alot worse then it is it had oil on it :

now i have a question about this: the gasket i used covered these.. slots ill call them, is that supposed to happen?

annnd the sh*tty crank

thanks for all the help

 

[yb200]

the gasket does cover them holes....if it was water cooled water would go thru there

 

[Blasterb0y794]

the gasket does cover them holes....if it was water cooled water would go thru there

Correct. Those holes are for the DT200 motor which uses the same bottom end as the blaster.
As far as it looks, it looks like there is some rubbing on the piston. Maybe its just the pics though?
-Brett

 

[yes se-r]

aha ok that makes sense idk why i didnt think of that..good to know

as far as the piston its really not that bad. but ill take a closer look at it, i didnt have much time to puts with it so ill dig deeper one of these days

 

[Awk08]

was that a new crank in there, or is it possible pieces of an old piston was down in there, were the cases split for the rebuild?????

 

[yes se-r]

the cases were not split, its an old stock crank

 

[Braaaptor]

You've got a lot of carbureized oil in there. Also, as evidenced by the piston wash, the engine has been running rich. Of course, this is a good thing during break-in, but too much oil can coke up main (and the big end) bearings. I'd say that you may have gummed-up at least one bearing, making the crankshaft difficult to turn.

What TYPE of 2-stroke oil were you mixing in? Petroleum-based ('regular')? Castor? or Synthetic? Those deposits on the side of the piston definately bring to mind the depostis left behind from burning castor oils. This type of oil lubricates well, but it is more tacky than the others and doesn't burn as clean. See if you can't post a few more pics of the exhaust side of the piston and the intake side of the cylinder. Pics here will tell more about what happened...

 

[yes se-r]

definately, i will take more tomorrow, there was a very small amount of some pennzoil 2 cycle oil mixed in 32:1 when i first got my cylinder put on but im using bell ray h1r which i believe is synthetic, idk about the pennzoil though..

does that carb jetting sound like it could be rich though? im getting alot of feedback it was running lean..

 

[Braaaptor]

definately, i will take more tomorrow, there was a very small amount of some pennzoil 2 cycle oil mixed in 32:1 when i first got my cylinder put on but im using bell ray h1r which i believe is synthetic, idk about the pennzoil though..

does that carb jetting sound like it could be rich though? im getting alot of feedback it was running lean..

From what I see in the pics you took, the TOP END was running rich. This is indicative of rich carburetor jetting. However, if you have an air leak present in the BOTTOM END, you can jet the carbuetor as rich as you want and still not have an engine that runs properly. I bet there is an air leak present somewhere, which was causing the engine to act like it was starving for fuel while, in reality, it was jetted overly-rich. Check all your jug gasket mating surfaces (especially where the case halves join together) for burrs or uneven edges. Also, a seal may not have been put in properly. The garter spring can pop off the back of a seal and slide down the shaft if the seal is not driven in squarely during installation...

Hope that helps! Keep us informed. I:I Pennzoil is almost surely mineral-based, BTW, especially if it was designed for use in outboard boat motors.

 

[Blasterdude27]

And you just got it back together too
That blows.

 

[yes se-r]

hmm ok well theres a local kid selling a whole motor..my bottom end has its other issues such as a small oil leak, bent shift shaft and the kick start doesnt recoil so i might buy it..kid wants 200 for it it just doesnt have a piston. if i can talk him down a little ill prob buy it and throw my top end on it

 

[sr5bidder]

You could try to ask a local shop that deals in parts unlimited if he could do a wiseco crank kit for $168 that will be about all you need for the rebuild...besides your shift shaft

If you go with the "kids" bottom end at least take the stator cover off and feel for any play at the flywheel and ask to see the piston that came out to be sure its in one piece

 

[yes se-r]

yea ill have to inspect it before i buy it..

 

[yes se-r]

bump for any other opinions. also offered 100 to a local for a functioning bottom end, awaiting response..