jetting problems after spending $2000 on mods
- Thread starter turbowrenchhead
- Start date
You've heard decent advice. It should still get to full throttle and high rpm even if the needle is in the wrong position...
So anything else not check out with the electrical system? The spark plug cap can be trouble but it's not REALLY likely that's your problem.
I followed the break in procedure per Ken. I drove it real easy for the first couple of hours. I ride the bike for at least 15 minutes real easy before I start getting on the throttle. I'm careful to get it warmed up good. The second seize happened in 18 degree weather and it was nice crisp weather. I'm thinking that it was just so cold that the cylinder was getting cooled off to quick compared to the piston.
I'm in process of doing a leak test. I did a leak test after the first wiseco piston and there were no leaks then. There isn't that many miles on the engine since the first wiseco piston.
I have not tried lowering the jets at all. I have only had 160, 180,190 and 205 in it. The 180 and up it would just fall on its face after 1/2 throttle.
stock with a stock blaster carb and pipe and no porting, you made 30hp yet you dont have any proof?
i thought a stock blaster only made like 15-17hp.
My keihin PWK is/was the easiest carburetor out of all of the ones I've had to tune. I got it second hand and it still runs great!
I doubt seriously that the carburetor is actually a problem unless the e-clip has slipped or the float is stuck and flooding the engine out.
I still have a nagging feeling that it's electrical. I had rust on my flywheel magnets one time from where my stator cover had a nick in it and it let the stator stay wet all the time. My bike would rev about 1/4 of the way up and then just start popping and hiccuping and carrying on. At first I suspected the carburetor so I tore it done like 5 times but after I determined that not even I could be that bad at cleaning out a carb I finally pulled the stator cover off and there were water droplets and rusticles in there. Skeery stuff!
I doubt seriously that the carburetor is actually a problem unless the e-clip has slipped or the float is stuck and flooding the engine out.
I still have a nagging feeling that it's electrical. I had rust on my flywheel magnets one time from where my stator cover had a nick in it and it let the stator stay wet all the time. My bike would rev about 1/4 of the way up and then just start popping and hiccuping and carrying on. At first I suspected the carburetor so I tore it done like 5 times but after I determined that not even I could be that bad at cleaning out a carb I finally pulled the stator cover off and there were water droplets and rusticles in there. Skeery stuff!
this is what i use to do it
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-...ock-stroke-wildcard-ported-trail-motor-35058/
Slick's temperamental so it works well..... I:I
I don't recommend smacking the crank with a hammer you can throw them out of whack that way and cause balance issues. I recommend the Tusk crank puller and Tuck case splitter (one for pushing the crank out of the case and one for pulling it back in). Together they're about $120 but that'll mean you have the tools to do a simple bottom end yourself.
You'll also need a clutch/flywheel holder, flywheel remover, and an impact screwdriver. The other things should be covered by a normal mechanic's toolset (wrenches, sockets, snap ring pliers)
Slick's temperamental so it works well..... I:I
I don't recommend smacking the crank with a hammer you can throw them out of whack that way and cause balance issues. I recommend the Tusk crank puller and Tuck case splitter (one for pushing the crank out of the case and one for pulling it back in). Together they're about $120 but that'll mean you have the tools to do a simple bottom end yourself.
You'll also need a clutch/flywheel holder, flywheel remover, and an impact screwdriver. The other things should be covered by a normal mechanic's toolset (wrenches, sockets, snap ring pliers)
HAAAA, I guess if your reusing the crank.... my method is not the proper way!
$30 to split and reassemble? Splitting's the easy part really, the right side case will slip off the crank usually. It's really only pressing the crank out of the left side case bearing that's a pain....
flip the case upside down, put a bottlejack on the end of the crank, wedge the upper side of the case under something and jack away. you'll get the crank out
Here is a list of suggestions:
Replace plug cap
Remove silencer
Remove unifilter
Seal case with case bond 1104 or 1194
Check grounds
Disconnect parking brake.
Things I have done.
Ohmed coil 7.6k in spec
Ohmed sorce coil 218 in spec
Ohmed plug cap 6.3K, out of spec
Removed exhaust and checked for flow with compressed air, seems fine
Leak down test, no bubbles at gaskets
Replace plug cap
Remove silencer
Remove unifilter
Seal case with case bond 1104 or 1194
Check grounds
Disconnect parking brake.
Things I have done.
Ohmed coil 7.6k in spec
Ohmed sorce coil 218 in spec
Ohmed plug cap 6.3K, out of spec
Removed exhaust and checked for flow with compressed air, seems fine
Leak down test, no bubbles at gaskets
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