i got started
- Thread starter blasterracer817
- Start date
o haha thats wasnt even cut yet that was right off the bender i just put it there lol i fishmouthed it and thats the top arm lol
How r u doing the ball joint ends? They look to be rod lengths that ur welding in. But on the welded arm looks like there was machining done on it. So I guess what I'm asking is r u drilling and tapping the rods for a ball joint like the after market arms, or would it be easier to get a pipe that's already threaded?
its just faced and rounded im drilling it and tapping it for hemjoints whiche ar better than balljoints and dont buckle or pop out lol
Thx was just wondering what it was that u were doing, but figured u had thought it out. Since there appeared to be work done to the end of it. I:I
Looks good
ok im gonna update this WITHOUT PICS, sorry but i got so ticked off i didnt take any and ontop of that it was like the middle of summer and i just never updated.
I got my arms done, along time ago, and they worked as they were supposed to, soft bumps, un noticable, but when i hit air they would bottom my shocks out and i would nosedive, and i actually got a pretty nasty gash on my chest from it, which is now i vnice scar, at that point i went and put the stockers back on cleaned my wound and went riding without problems, i know for a fact that me using .120 wall mild steel is what made me nose dive, obviously alot of weight, and the too soft was because of my shock mount positoion, and my shiznitty stock shocks, being the results were a semi failure, i ditched em.
im gonna order chromoly soon and go at er again with a different approch this time.
STAY TUNED
I got my arms done, along time ago, and they worked as they were supposed to, soft bumps, un noticable, but when i hit air they would bottom my shocks out and i would nosedive, and i actually got a pretty nasty gash on my chest from it, which is now i vnice scar, at that point i went and put the stockers back on cleaned my wound and went riding without problems, i know for a fact that me using .120 wall mild steel is what made me nose dive, obviously alot of weight, and the too soft was because of my shock mount positoion, and my shiznitty stock shocks, being the results were a semi failure, i ditched em.
im gonna order chromoly soon and go at er again with a different approch this time.
STAY TUNED
there trashed, some where getting made into new metal, and im gonas remakem better and with chromoly
Ditch the double welds, it simply overheats your metal... If you have a TIG, stick with it.
Also, don't worry so much about the shape of the pieces making the arm, worry more about the end points on the arms. I like the screws in a piece of board to help guide the shape but I don't see anything making sure that your ball joints are at the same position on both sides.
Chro-moly FTW. Not only is it simply stronger than mild but it resists bending because it's DOM. There is a reason why they use it to build aftermarket suspension parts. When you go looking, use at least .083" for the lower arms and .065" for the upper.
Also, don't worry so much about the shape of the pieces making the arm, worry more about the end points on the arms. I like the screws in a piece of board to help guide the shape but I don't see anything making sure that your ball joints are at the same position on both sides.
Chro-moly FTW. Not only is it simply stronger than mild but it resists bending because it's DOM. There is a reason why they use it to build aftermarket suspension parts. When you go looking, use at least .083" for the lower arms and .065" for the upper.
