I cannot seem to figure it out

OneIed

OneIed

Member
Mar 24, 2015
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0
33
48
Brewster, NY
I cannot get it jetting right to even do a plug chop.

Stock carb
Toomey full exhaust
after market air filter with open lid on stock box
rebuild slight over bore (don't know the size done by previous owner)
Elevation 630 ft
TORS and parking brake disconnected

Carb was just rebuild by a local shop and they put in the stock jet. So I leak tested it and found that I needed a head gasket. Replaced that. Heat cycled and retorqued. If I put anything over a 270 jet it has no power and goes no where. TORS delete kit is on order but not here yet. So I haven't touched the needle clip. Floats are at the correct level also. Air mix screw is out about 1 3/4 out by the setting methods I have read here.

Any input would be great. I'm going nuts Re trying ever jet I have over and over again. Oh BTW I'm using the Jets R Us blaster kit. I think it's 240,250,260,270,280,300,320

HELP ME!
 
I know that's what the pipe comes with that's why it is driving me nutz. I haven't done a compression test as I don't own 1. Yet
 
I would be concerned about the previous owners (slight over bore). He probably just honed it and put the same size piston in there.
 
MURPH said:
Does it say anything about the size of the piston? Or say anything about boring in the paperwork?
Click to expand...

No it doesn't unfortunately. Looks like I might have a rebuild in my near future. My wife is going to kill me. Lol. Plus it was from 3 years ago and I don't think the kid I bought from could change the air in the tires if you catch my drift
 
On top of what is already mentioned ,,Is air filter clean/new and have you checked for any obstructions in the exhaust or intake ?
 
If ur gonna rebuild it dont buy those cheap kits on ebay. Get ur current cylinder bored by someone who wants the piston first before they bore
 
toomey also recommends that the airscrew to be at 3/4 of a turn...
not saying it is right for every application:)
i have had 2 diff blasters with toomey and have experimented lol
comp test
leak test
proper plug type
float needle not getting stuck/free flowing gas from tank to carb:)
 
Yep leak test and check that exhaust for blockage, and around here I believe its normally recommended to start with a 330 for those mods
 
tbrooks said:
Yep leak test and check that exhaust for blockage, and around here I believe its normally recommended to start with a 330 for those mods
Click to expand...

Agreed. Leak test before anything else. Compression test would also be helpful.
If it were mine I'd be a bit coservative on the starting jet. I would chop a 340 and go from there.
 
MercMenace said:
Agreed. Leak test before anything else. Compression test would also be helpful.
If it were mine I'd be a bit coservative on the starting jet. I would chop a 340 and go from there.
Click to expand...

When I put in anything over a 270 it wont get out of it own way the the plug comes out wet. That is why Im going nuts. When the local shop rebuild the carb they gave the previous owner the old parts, which he gave to me, and it had a 330 in it. But I cannot seem to get anything to work over the 270

jus_me said:
On top of what is already mentioned ,,Is air filter clean/new and have you checked for any obstructions in the exhaust or intake ?
Click to expand...

Air filter is clean and properly oiled. No blockage on intake side. How would I check the exhaust? It seems clear

tbrooks said:
Yep leak test and check that exhaust for blockage, and around here I believe its normally recommended to start with a 330 for those mods
Click to expand...

Larry's Shee said:
Are those jets genuine Mikuni? Could make a difference.
Do you have nice fat blue spark?
Proper plug? B8?
Click to expand...

I bought the kit from Jets R Us. So I dont know as they sell both genuine and after market. How could I tell? Plug is a BR8ES with proper gapping

MercMenace said:
Agreed. Leak test before anything else. Compression test would also be helpful.
If it were mine I'd be a bit coservative on the starting jet. I would chop a 340 and go from there.
Click to expand...

I re leak tested after head gasket and heat cycles/re torque and it held 8 psi for 20 minutes or so.


Looking to see if any friends have a compression tester if not Im going to have to buy one. Does anyone know the tread size of a NGK BR8ES? So I make sure the compression tester is compatable
 
i believe the thread size for the ngk spark plug is 14mm. to c if u have good spark unscrew the spark plug out of the cylinder and put it in the ignition coil and put the electrode of the spark plug close to anything metal and kick it like u r starting it to c if u have good spark coming from the plug.

did u check the reeds? r they chipped or not seating flat?
 
MURPH said:
i believe the thread size for the ngk spark plug is 14mm. to c if u have good spark unscrew the spark plug out of the cylinder and put it in the ignition coil and put the electrode of the spark plug close to anything metal and kick it like u r starting it to c if u have good spark coming from the plug.

did u check the reeds? r they chipped or not seating flat?
Click to expand...

Reeds are good. My first leak was at the intake so when I put in a new gasket I inspected them. I will have to double check the spark tonight.
 
My wife is picking me up a compression tester tonight on her way home from work. Is there a post some where about proper compression testing procedure? What is a good compression PSI range?
 
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