how to clean a carb

YFS101

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Feb 9, 2011
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Fort Erie Ontario
How to properly clean a carburetor

This is a basic run down for cleaning a 2 stroke or just about any motorcycle carburetor.
For this write up I used a Yamaha Blaster carb which is a 26mm Mikuni VS style carb.

First thing to do is remove the barb from the bike. In order to clean a carb properly it should be off the bike where it can’t come into contact with any dirt.
For a good cleaning you will need the following
Spray carb cleaner (and eye protection)
Metal polish and a Q-tip
Philips head screwdriver
Small flat blade screwdriver
6mm & 8mm sockets
12mm wrench
Some light grease
Silicone lube or cable spray
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Once the carb is off the bike and you have found a clean place to work on it, start by removing the cap/TORS unit from the carb body by loosening the cap (counter clock wise). You may or may not have a cap lock on the side of the carb that must first be removed. If the cap is on really tight a pair of channel locks will make quick work of it.
Once it’s off go ahead and remove the covers from the TORS unit. If you carb has just a regular cap you can skip this part. If the screws are overly tight you can usually clamp onto them with a pair of vice grips and break them free.
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Next remove the 8mm nut from the left side of the TORS unit.
Once you have the nut and washer off flip it over and slightly pull on the throttle arm shaft and it will come right out.
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Now using the spray can of carb cleaner be sure to thoroughly clean and wash the slide, cap, and spring, inside the TORS unit as well as the throttle arm bushing and seals. Once it’s clean apply a bit of light grease to the throttle arm bushing and seals as well as the cable pivot points.
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Now install the throttle arm back into place and line up the other arm. Then just re-install the washer and nut. It’s best to place a socket inside the housing when tightening the nut again so you do not damage the throttle slide cable. Once you have tightened up the nut go ahead and put the covers back on and set the TORS unit aside
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For the carb body, start by removing the float bowl screws and vent tubes.
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Once it’s off make sure it’s perfectly clean and free of any dirt or varnish build up
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Now go ahead and remove the main jet, splash guard, and washer, as well as the pilot jet. Clean the jets well and make sure there are now blockages. Once you are satisfied they are perfectly clean, set them aside in a clean container
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Next remove the float pin, and float valve
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Next remove the float valve seat retainer screw and float valve seat.
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Check the float valve needle tip for any signs of wear or damage. Also check the spring loaded tip on the float tang end and make sure it moves freely. Replace the assembly if there are any signs of wear or damage.
Check the seat o-ring for any cracks or build up on the underside. To clean the seat, use a bit of metal polish on the end of a Q-tip and gently polish the inside of the seat. If it is badly worn it should just be replaced. Make sure you clean the parts thoroughly when finished
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Next using the 12mm wrench, remove the enricher valve (a.k.a the choke)
Check the slide for wear and the o-ring and rubber end for wear or damage. If there is any replace assembly. If it’s ok clean it well.
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Remove the mixture screw and spring. Again check the o-ring for damage as well as the end of the mixture screw for deep grooves. Replace it if damaged or worn
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Now to remove the needle jet you may need to re-install the main jet into the needle jet and lightly tap it with a screwdriver handle to break it free. Once it’s free, remove the main jet and continue to push needle jet out of the carb body with a screw driver.
 
Once you have the needle jet out, use a magnifying glass and check that the hole is still round, if it’s oblong or worn out of round replace it and the needle as well.
Make sure when you clean it that all of the hole are free of any dirt.
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Now you are ready to clean the main body.
If the carb id in REALY bad shape and is gummed up badly I find it best to boil the carb for 1/2 hour then let it soak overnight in carb cleaner. if the carb is fairly clean, go ahead and use the spray carb clean and blast it through the ports and passages. it's always best to start with the float bowl area first to blow out any larger dirt pieces instead of pushing them down deeper into the carb body
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Once you are satisfied the carb is thoroughly cleaned you can reassemble it
Start with the needle jet first. When you re-install it make sure you line up the notch with the alignment pin. the push it down until seated.
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Re-check that each piece is perfectly clean before you re-install it into the carb.
install the enricher valve
mixture screw and spring
float seat, retainer and screw
pilot jet
main jet, splash guard and washer
and finally the float valve and floats.
once you have the float pin in make sure the float level is correct to recommended specs for your bike.
jets7.jpg


All that is left now is to install the float bowl, vent tubes and screws then reattach the cap and carb.
 
Good info! Just wanted to add that, if you're installing a carburetor kit, DO NOT USE the jets which come in the carb kit IF your Blaster has had any mods done to it. Re-use your old jets or buy new ones of the proper size if they are too far gone or damaged to be cleaned. The jets in carb kits are stock sizes. Just FYI for the newb's.
 
Haha YFS at it again with top notch write ups. I do all of that, but I let it soak in hot water/simple green in a coffee can, then take it out and let it soak in Berryman B12 carb cleaner and blow everything out with compressed air. All in all the same thing though. Your approach is probably more simplistic.