Friggin elec .problem

[Awk08]

it's all good bro, we luv this sh*t
the low voltage comin outta the stator is where your troubles are, that should be higher, at least 12 i'm thinking, and will increase as rpm's go up, hence the need for the regulator on the lighting side, for the ignition we want all we can get, and the cdi does not increase it, just advances it as rpm's climb,
the coil increases the voltage from 12 sumthin into the 30/40,000 range i believe
gotta be stator/flywheel related, but if the ohmages are checking out, i'm leanin toward.....?????? flywheel ?????

lemme check with holeshotman, someone close to you in FLA, so this money order business doesnt take you weeks
maybe someone has a stator/flywheeel you can just use to eliminate them as troubles ???????

 

[88' blaster]

and like i said i have a stater cdi and flywheel if you want it and awk cant find anyone

 

[bmfv-twin]

it has cable brakes and the tors is completely eliminated

 

[bmfv-twin]

ok great,like I said I appreciate it.

 

[Awk08]

well, if it wasnt for the lack of paypal, i'd say go for the package deal from 88, prolly like $25 for a flywheel, thats with shipping, i've seen them go for $10/$15 + shipping, throw in the stator for another $25 and the cdi for $10 ??????
but then wait for some type of $$$ transfer. we're lookin at a week or so
i only suggested holeshotman cause he's semi local in tampa, and maybe we can get bro riding soon

but a package deal from 88, sounds like a plan, you guys figure out payment, costs and shipping

 

[88' blaster]

well, if it wasnt for the lack of paypal, i'd say go for the package deal from 88, prolly like $25 for a flywheel, thats with shipping, i've seen them go for $10/$15 + shipping, throw in the stator for another $25 and the cdi for $10 ??????
but then wait for some type of $$$ transfer. we're lookin at a week or so
i only suggested holeshotman cause he's semi local in tampa, and maybe we can get bro riding soon

but a package deal from 88, sounds like a plan, you guys figure out payment, costs and shipping

the only problem i find with this is the cdi is a brand new in box ricks performance cdi i just bought it was $46 unless i take my old one off and put this one on i was going to save it for when i get my 240 kit

 

[bmfv-twin]

yea I'm thinking flywheel also I haven't found anything about adjusting the stator flywheel gap

 

[bmfv-twin]

Yall aren't going to believe this.
Took the flywheel off for the hundredth time painted the magnets with a marker kicked it a couple of times pulled it off.:...........and what do you know the stators were were just barely rubbing 1 magnet,ground it ever so slightly with my dremel and now I'm getting 11.5 to 13 volts to the cdi UNFRIIGGINBELIEVEABLE

 

[Awk08]

thats awsome bro,
ride hard, ride safe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[bmfv-twin]

not just yet I still only have 2 to 4 volts coming out of the cdi so I guess somehow it fried

 

[Awk08]

where you grounding it to take that measurement ????
you still have the old one ???? maybe it wasnt bad to begin with

 

[bmfv-twin]

no I just got this thing with the new cdi and I'm grounding it right to the frame.

 

[bmfv-twin]

should I be testing the orange wire with the a/c side of my multi meter ?

 

[Awk08]

the manual says to just use an auto test light on the orange wire,
which would be DC ???? to check for a pulse, it doesnt mention a voltage, which will get amped up by the coil anyway
i say hook it all up and see if she runs

 

[bmfv-twin]

yeppers did that not even a sputter.Now I know why my buddie wanted to unload it.He put new piston,rings,reed valves,carb,stator,cdi and then ran into this prob.i traded an 87 chevy pick up for this quad and a honda xr100r :I betcha his foot and back are feeling much better now.

 

[mvyooper]

I've been reading/following this thread (I'm the one the great guys on this site helped isolate my problem to a bad/mismatched flywheel) and by no means do I have the experience of most of these guys. I just tried to replicate what you are seeing on your tester and my AC meter shows the orange wire to the coil ranging from 4 to 40 volts when I kick it over. (Exactly what AWK was referring to by the coil amps being "amped up" by the CDI). If you are sure your pulsar and stator coils are within ohm factory tolerances per the manual, my experience indicates there can be only two other components affecting the volts going to your primary coil: 1.) CDI; 2.) flywheel.

 

[Awk08]

(Exactly what AWK was referring to by the coil amps being "amped up" by the CDI).

no, someone else suggested the cdi increases the voltage, when in fact it only increases the timing advance as the revs increase, not the voltage,
the only piece in this puzzle that increases voltage is the coil, hence the larger wire feeding the sparkplug

but anyway, glad both you guys got going, now..........
grip it and rip it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[mvyooper]

Now I'm confused. Not to highjack his thread, but did he get it going? I interpreted "Not even a sputter now" as a bad thing. Also, I get what you are saying about the coil taking the stator charge and kicking it up to 40K plus, but when I ran the test I disconnected the orange wire from the primary coil (taking the coil out of the equation) and my meter showed a clear increase in volts as I kicked it over. Whatever component (stator?) causes that increase in volts, bmfv twin is not seeing it and can likely find his problem there. Everything I know about Blasters you guys taught me, so if I'm f'ed up, it's all your fault. HA!

 

[bmfv-twin]

Well I was just working on it a I finally got good spark,thanks to the fine people that came up with a slough of ideas that got me to where I'm at now.
When I kick it it fires and kicks back pretty hard,ive been reading up on this that I may have to retard my timing because it has a 20 over bore with a wiseco high comp.piston so thats where I'm @ now

 

[Awk08]

no timing retard needed for any modification to a blaster, except maybe when running methanol or alcohol

another thread just on here yesterday found the woodruff key broken , flywheel spun and out of timing, as the cause for serious kickback
you sure you got it back together correctly

the flywheel nut has to be extremely right, an impact gun is suggested,
the wedge of the shaft is what is supposed to hold it in place, the woodruff key is just a guide to locate it to proper position