NO SPARK!!!

Sep 22, 2015
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Hey guys I recently had my motor out to fix a crack case. While it was out and waiting to get it back i decided to go through the wires to remove and clean up the ones I was no longer using. So i cut out the OIL PUMP WIRE, PARKING BRAKE WIRE, AND THE GROUNDS BECAUSE I'M RUNNING A BATTERY.

From what I read on here you don't need the grounds if you install a battery because you float the ground. EVERYTHING was done correctly as I've been riding fine till I had the crack. battery HIDs lights and all.

BATTERY MODS:
RICKY STATOR
TRAIL TECH REG/REC
BATTERY.

TORS DELETE BEFORE MOTOR REMOVED

After searching for answers on why I came across the steps to get the coil to see if it was bad or not. Using the only meter I have the readings showed what looks to be bad but I'm not sure because i can't adjust the ohms like it says. So talking to AWK he told me to use a test light on the coil wire to see if in fact I was getting spark and I wasn't. I then tested the stator and it seemed the "pick up coil" was not reading. So for S**ts n giggles i installed the stock stator and it actually started for a second but cut off from what seemed be because of no spark.

I then used the test light on the coil wire about 2 inches away from the CDI box and it hardly lit up. It also has a alarm sound built into it and when the power turns the light on it has solid beep and that was very low to let me know it was a weak voltage.

So now I'm very confused on whats going on. The bike ran well before I pulled the motor and hasn't ran since then.

HOW CAN A CDI BOX GO BAD WITH OUT IT BEING IN USE??
FROM THE PICS I POSTED IS THE COIL BAD?
AM I RIGHT THAT NO GROUNDS ARE NEEDED FOR THE BATTERY SETUP?
WHAT IS DONE WITH THE PARKING BRAKE WIRE FROM THE CDI BOX? GREEN/YELLOW
coil01.jpg
coil02.jpg
 
The primary is supposed to be between. 1.44-1.76 ohms. Yours is low at .4 ohms.

Secondary is 5.28-7.92 kilohms. Your high at 13.25 k ohms. Looks to be out of specs and might be the problem


If you have another coil, give it a try. I think I have an extra good one in the garage. If you need it, get ahold of me.

Fred
 
The primary is supposed to be between. 1.44-1.76 ohms. Yours is low at .4 ohms.

Secondary is 5.28-7.92 kilohms. Your high at 13.25 k ohms. Looks to be out of specs and might be the problem


If you have another coil, give it a try. I think I have an extra good one in the garage. If you need it, get ahold of me.

Fred

Ok so the meter is reading it right? What about the coil wire not having voltage while kicking? I know there's no way to test the CDI box, but can it just go bad without even being in use?

and thanks I'll let you know what I end up doing about the coil
 
wait a minute here, when we talked I thought you only "floated the ground" on the stator plate as per the DIY battery install.
I didn't catch that you did anything to the grounds outside the stator.

the "floating ground" refers to only the lighting ground from the lighting coil on the stator gets removed from the stator plate connection and run directly to the regulator or battery per that regulators wiring diagram.


the ignition and lighting are 2 seperate circuts, so reconnect all solid black wire grounds to the frame,
you still need the ignition grounds connected to bare frame as they were before you disconnected them
 
wait a minute here, when we talked I thought you only "floated the ground" on the stator plate as per the DIY battery install.
I didn't catch that you did anything to the grounds outside the stator.

the "floating ground" refers to only the lighting ground from the lighting coil on the stator gets removed from the stator plate connection and run directly to the regulator or battery per that regulators wiring diagram.


the ignition and lighting are 2 seperate circuts, so reconnect all solid black wire grounds to the frame,
you still need the ignition grounds connected to bare frame as they were before you disconnected them

Yep I did that, its grounded at the stock regulator location, coil, and it connected back at the spot I cut it from. where the solid black wires connect and go to the key switch and all. so im guessing at this point I fried my CDI box
 
you're positive no solid blacks are connected to any black/white stripe wires,
or those blk/wht stripes are not connected to frame ?
(thats what both the key and kill switches do to kill the ignition)

try with both kill switches disconnected, but be ready to drop it in gear with brakes on to kill it if it does start
 
you're positive no solid blacks are connected to any black/white stripe wires,
or those blk/wht stripes are not connected to frame ?
(thats what both the key and kill switches do to kill the ignition)

try with both kill switches disconnected, but be ready to drop it in gear with brakes on to kill it if it does start

positive... I didnt touch the stripes black/white wires or the black wires that go to the kill switch and key switch.
 
Id try the coil first, and double check all the white/black wires like Awk said. The white stripe can blend in, I've done it a few times.

I've never had a cdi go out, not saying it isn't possibly your problem, but its one of those things you rarely hear of or see on a blaster.