I used air cooled oil it said for all air cooled engines It had atc chain saw trimmer an snowmobile pictures on the bottle... it was pensoil... an it has a little less oil maybe cuz I didn't quiet have 2 galloms so I didn't quit use 8 oz.... anyone wanna tell ne where to check the carb to see if ot was plugged there an I jus found out my donut gasket was missing.where the pipe connects to the motor
first blaster ive owned need some help please
- Thread starter gb blaster
- Start date
8 ounces of oil might be a little much for a 32:1 mix i only run 4 ounces to a gallon when running caster
your 4 ounces to a gallon 8 to a 2 gallon bottle i got the 32:1 mix right i no that its the oil i used i was wondering about it was penzoil 2 strock air cooled oil from advanced auto i used
For the crank case oil/transmission oil, you dont use 2 stroke oil. You need to use like a motorcycle standard oil or any oil designed for a wet clutch. And I've heard you can use transmission fluid, but I've never tried it. Using 2 stroke oil in your crankcase will roast your clutch
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I no that lmao I got the 80 weight hobda transmissiob oil the guy at petes cycles said.ot was the best but idk if he knows what he's talkin bout my owners manual says yamalube 10w 30 or any synthetic 10w30. Is the 80 weight to much?
it has to be compatible with wet clutches. i run atf type F, have in all my two strokes over the years. its made for wet clutches
10W30 Synthetic, Yamalube are fine for the bottom end, anything specifically listed for a wet clutch would obviously be best, but more $$$. Any 2-stroke oil with the ATV and SnoMo symbol on it will be fine for your fuel if you got the right mix at 32:1. The smoking when you first start up is most likely just oil burning off that settled in the cylinder or exhaust when you shut the bike down....which tells me you might not have a 32:1 mixture, but running a little lean. Rich and Lean refer to you AFR (air to fuel ratio), specifically the fuel portion of that ratio. Too much fuel and you are rich, to little fuel and you are lean. As for the oil injection fitting on your carb, it would be easiest to tell you if you post pics of the carb, but most likely if you have a fitting that doesn't have a hose on it, or a very short stub of a hose, that is going to be your fitting. If the bike is revving on it's own, quit running it until you do a leakdown test, you have an air leak. Good luck.
Carb hole is defintally unplugged goinna plug it today an I need to run a leaks
down test but idk how to I'm gonna look into it a try what happens to the boke if its getting air from an air leak messes the bikes fuel air mix up?
down test but idk how to I'm gonna look into it a try what happens to the boke if its getting air from an air leak messes the bikes fuel air mix up?
Compliments another member in another thread.
AS to what happens if you don't do it and it is sucking air. = Boom = $$$$$$$
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AS to what happens if you don't do it and it is sucking air. = Boom = $$$$$$$[/QUOTE]
Alright well i guess i need a leak down tester... what store would carry them i need one... an hopefully the only air leak is in the unplugged carb an i can jus fix that fast.
Alright well i guess i need a leak down tester... what store would carry them i need one... an hopefully the only air leak is in the unplugged carb an i can jus fix that fast.
anyone on here live in the state of maryland??? ill give you a couple dollars if u wanna swing through my way an help me with this leakdown test... i like riding an i obviously dont want my bike to blow up... also i missing the donut gasket that goes at the top the exhaust where it connects to the block.. would that suck air in or is that jus pushing air out?... an the rubber peice that connects the silencer to the exhaust is gone.. wondering the same thing about that an is it bad to ride the bike with them two peices gone?
by the way i do appreciate all the help from you guys i learned a few things about blasters on here an it jus might help me keep mine running
If the exhaust flange is leaking it will make some changes to the breathing.
As to riding I would not ride until the nipple is on the carb, the exhaust flange and the muffler coupling is fixed.
Also don't ride till you have done a leak down test, PM a member Slickerthanyou, and talk leak down tester.
As to riding I would not ride until the nipple is on the carb, the exhaust flange and the muffler coupling is fixed.
Also don't ride till you have done a leak down test, PM a member Slickerthanyou, and talk leak down tester.
alright i have been that bad enough i think ill just keep it in the garage intill i get everything fixed ill have to fix it alil at a time as i get the money i suppose an thanks
Alright well i guess i need a leak down tester... what store would carry them i need one... an hopefully the only air leak is in the unplugged carb an i can jus fix that fast.[/QUOTE]
Harbor Freight or another hardware store wshould have some sort of leak down tester. But slickerthanyou has them for cheap and they're blaster specific.
I took a picture of of the leak down tester from the DIY section into mclendons (the local hardware store) and showed the guy in the plumbing dept. I had my intake and exhaust manifolds with me and we ran around the store and put it together cost like 25 dollars
Bikebandit.com will show you complete diagrams of your bike. better for reference when reading clymers repair manual
