extended steering stem diy

Feb 18, 2010
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Texas
ive been searching for some parts to build a anti-vibe stem instead of having to take pieces to a machine shop and so far i have found only one place that will sell the 2 machined pieces that the clamp bolts too and lonestar racing will sell just those pieces and they are 8 bucks a piece, not too bad if you ask me. so if anybody else knows any places that u can buy some stem parts to help others out in the search, post up the website here and make it easy for someone else. maybe some guys that are experienced in this can post up some measurements of the outside diameters of the stock stem and what gauge metal would be best, and some tube lengths for different sizes like +1 or +2 etc. or just any tips that u may have come across to make it easier for the next man. im just starting to build my stem so when i get done i will come back and add some tips along the way and some measurements. this thread should make it easy for someone else to build a stem without a bunch of questions so post up!! im also looking for a place to buy the stem flag that the tie rods bolt too instead of cutting the one off my stock stem so if u know that place hook a brotha up!!

2 machined pieces that the clamps bolt too-- Lonestar Racing $8 a piece
tubing size is 1 1/4 OD Chromoly and wall .058 about $3.69 FT at wicks metal
 
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finished my stem and here is the final result. i used a grinder and bench grinder to do the notching. i also used the stock stem flag (tie rod holder) on the new stem. very easy to do.

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That is trick man. So what's the total for the head parts? You already had the upper bar mount piece?

yeah i already had the anti vibe clamp and i cut the flag off the old stem. here's what i have in it

tapered machine pieces $16
5 ft chromoly tubing $18 u could get a 2ft piece and cut that price in half
total $34
 
Over at the HQ I stumbled upon a sweet anti vibe idea.
The expansive foam you use for sealing spaced between walls and door jams is also a great vibration absorber . I filled my stock banshee bars and before my rebuild I did a before and after comparison and wow what a difference . cut the arm pump and fatigue to almost nothing . as for the steering stem , if you are gonna do a extended stem , and want the anti-vibe feature heres my 2 cents . I extended my blaster stem before I sold her and it went pretty slick . The extension was made from a 3/4" black steel pipe nipple . It fit perfectly inside the stem , very tight tolerance , not sloppy , almost perfect . You cut your stem about halfway and then install your extension piece . for a 2" extension I used a 4" nipple so the weld was a nice easy socket weld versus a butt weld . Before you cut the stem make a welding jig to bolt it to , so when you are done it will be straight and true . Once the welds are done , let it cool and pry the plastic cap off the top by the bar mount and inject foam into it . Worked great . Total Cost involved
$7.00 , Foam your bars and you can ride all day in comfort .

IF someone wants one made , send me a PM . I still have the jig and It would be easy to bang one out . I'll see if I have some pics to post up , I know I took some .
 
For anyone wanting to make there own when ya call lonestar you will need this part number 75-st005! This is the two tapered tube pieces that get welded on to the top of the stem, this is what the clamp bolts on to! They are 8.49 each you will need two for each stem you make! -Slick
 
3 Wh33l3r Rid3r or Slick ... Could ya post the length of those taper tubes and the wide & narrow taper id.. Like to see if old CR clamps will work in them.
Thanks
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A rough idea of the CR reciever
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barclamptapertube.jpg
 
Looks like a nice stem, I also made a +2 stem. If you take your time the top bar mount and bottm part are just welded onto the shaft. Take a grinder or cutoff wheel and cut off the weld, but dont ruin the parts. Went down to the local steel shop and got a longer piece that was the same size, just a thicker wall and welded it all back into place. It takes time, but that bike needs to be stretched out any way and for around $7, its worth it.

Here is the final result so you can see the height.
28s3jfm.jpg
 
3 Wh33l3r Rid3r or Slick ... Could ya post the length of those taper tubes and the wide & narrow taper id.. Like to see if old CR clamps will work in them.
Thanks
~
A rough idea of the CR reciever
~
barclamptapertube.jpg

Hey bud as soon as they come in I'll let ya know!
 
Looks like a nice stem, I also made a +2 stem. If you take your time the top bar mount and bottm part are just welded onto the shaft. Take a grinder or cutoff wheel and cut off the weld, but dont ruin the parts. Went down to the local steel shop and got a longer piece that was the same size, just a thicker wall and welded it all back into place. It takes time, but that bike needs to be stretched out any way and for around $7, its worth it.

Here is the final result so you can see the height.
28s3jfm.jpg


Looks good, I may end up with +3 with the higher bars, But then i'll be sitting straight up. also going with the 1 1/8 antivibe stem an bars! Soooo next years at Awks ride I'll be saying "what rocks"? I didn't feel a thing!
Parts due in jan3rd!!!