engine wont cut off
- Thread starter gjgkeb
- Start date
Massive air leak. You shouldn't start it again until fixed but if this happens again just put it in like 3rd and pop the clutch it will stall.
Ok. It scared the sh*t outta me because its a brand new top end. I think the idle was turned all the way up but i dont have a book and not sure how to adjust the carb. Is there a thread on that?
Haha ya it sucks I've had it happened. Do you still have the TORS brick on top of your carb? If so the idle screw is under your seat it's like the size of a nickel, guess you could try that. But you really do need to leak test it. I know less than most on this site but I've read prob every post and a runaway is a air leak 99.9% of the time.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/build-and-use-a-leakdown-tester.10663/
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/build-and-use-a-leakdown-tester.10663/
Oh and the airscrew should be 1.5 turns out from fully seated, it's the small brass screw on left side of the carb. If you have that at 1.5 and idle screw (under seat) turned down and it still does it you most def are part of the 99.9% as I was when I first got my quad.
Let me give a little more details. New piston,cylinder and gaskets. About 125 compression. Started at first but idled to high. Was looking up info and my buddy might have messed with the idle because the seat was off when i came back out (of course he says he didnt). Picked this thing up for $300 so i really wanna get it going.
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The fact it was just rebuilt is more of a reason to leak test it. It could be something as simple as the intake too loose or too tight or a seal leaking. Won't know till its tested.
Useful replys but not 1 single mention of what's really going on. You have a cause and effect situation. The cause is a very lean condition. Since you just did the top end, the most likely culprit is an air leak. Either you screwed up on 1 of the gaskets or the crank seals were leaking previously, which is what fried the previous top end. The effect you have now is the whole engine is getting so hot that the spark plug is acting like a glow plug. Do not start it till you find and repair the air leak. You are lucky that you only had a runaway and not another fried top end. If you continue to run it without repairing the problem, you may not be so lucky next time.
airleak http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/about-air-leaks-save-your-engine.55537/#post-763164
spark plug gap is to close
whacked out carb settings/idle, airscrew
throttle valve is installed wrong
spark plug gap is to close
whacked out carb settings/idle, airscrew
throttle valve is installed wrong
When i got this thing it only ran by being pulled by another 4 wheeler. Compression was 40 so i pulled top end and found a busted ring and minor piston damage. I replaced the cylinder, piston, rings wrist pin etc. Compression is 125 now but the gaskets that came seemed really cheap and lightweight. Trying to make a leakdown tester today.
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