Well, atleast you know what it is and how to sort it.. if you get the money you get still do your race! I:I
Engine Problems
- Thread starter Quadrider10
- Start date
yea im hopeing..... but now comes for a few q's. heres my situation.
i obvoulsy need a hone and new piston kit. which means break in and such...... my next race is hopefully august 4 & 5th, and theres one in octuber that im not missing. season ends in deciember the latest for me. now i wouls imaginge i can have this thing rebuilt and broken in before august, and rdy to race. but here is where the situation comes in. i want to do a port job, head mod, bigger carb, and timing advance. i can do all those things, and just end the season here, and maybe i will have it together before the end of season for 1 last race. but if i do that, it is gonna be sitting in my garage all winter or at least until next season with out moving. and i will be very bores during school and wrestling season.
or should i wait on the port job and crab, and just do the head mod, and timing advance now, and have it ready for next few races, and just do the port an carb in the winter? cause head mod will take me like 1 day or so which i can do while the new piston and suchs is in the mail.
i obvoulsy need a hone and new piston kit. which means break in and such...... my next race is hopefully august 4 & 5th, and theres one in octuber that im not missing. season ends in deciember the latest for me. now i wouls imaginge i can have this thing rebuilt and broken in before august, and rdy to race. but here is where the situation comes in. i want to do a port job, head mod, bigger carb, and timing advance. i can do all those things, and just end the season here, and maybe i will have it together before the end of season for 1 last race. but if i do that, it is gonna be sitting in my garage all winter or at least until next season with out moving. and i will be very bores during school and wrestling season.
or should i wait on the port job and crab, and just do the head mod, and timing advance now, and have it ready for next few races, and just do the port an carb in the winter? cause head mod will take me like 1 day or so which i can do while the new piston and suchs is in the mail.
Ide do the last option, wait for the port job and such just get the head and timing done, get some practise for this year, then think next year they wont be expecting you to be as that fast! I:I
thats what i was thinking..... butnext year, im gonna have ot be in eaither collage boy class or C class so i will have to do the mods anyway during the winter.
ok so i took the jud, head off, and heres what i found.
what i did notice also was where the rings do seat on the piston, there should be a little bridge rite? like so thtat the gap in the rings is inbetween that bridgle so they dont move? if there is sopose to be a bridge, its not there. only a little stump.
also the rigs were very loose inside the clyinder. they moved around a lot.
It is apparent that the ring positioning pins have been worn out by excessive ring movement.
There are many reasons why this happens, but I am not crossing that bridge.
If it were me I would be tossing out that piston, the ring lands on the piston would have to be worn, to allow enough ring movement to wear the pins out.
Get the jug measured, bored, if it needs it and fit a new piston.
well i think they moved because the piston was too small for the bore. but eaither way ima have to get new pistion. and i think a hone will be good rather then a bore. thers no scratches in it. like im surprised how good it is
welcome to my life. i had it running in my garage for 10 mins to seal the intake gaskets, and rdy for race, never even made it out my garage, and this happends. owell KEN IM GIVING YOU A CALL NOW! lol
o well just look forward to it running fast and smooth whenever you run it again I:I
You said that the rings were worn unevenly, this could be caused by port snagging.
When you get the jug measured, make sure that you have the areas directly above and below the exhaust port measured well.
Make doubly sure there is not excessive wear there, because it could cause the new rings to snag also.
When you get the jug measured, make sure that you have the areas directly above and below the exhaust port measured well.
Make doubly sure there is not excessive wear there, because it could cause the new rings to snag also.
Head mod will help you big time! Save the porting for later. I'm not solod on the timing thing yet, I know alot run +4 or so but I'm ok with stock!
If no bore is needed that's a plus, but definetly new piston kit! Hopefully cylinder is straight!
as soon as my mom's boyfriend gets home, ima check it all around.
i called ken, ima see what he says. but the cylinder walls and everything is in perfect condition. no scratches or anyhting. but i dont know if its stright or wht have you. so i dont need bore unless its not stright. but hone will do if all else is good.
If its just a hone, do it yourself by hand..that way you dont have to send the barrel off and will be easier as you can get most of it back together once the piston comes, also cheaper lol
Get some pretty fine wet and dry, scrape one way in the bore all the way round, then do the other way, so it makes like X around it, give it a good blast with an air line or something and job done 
Fair enough lol. but why pay for something thats so easy to do? this is what my dad taught me, was talking to sicivic about it the other day and yup, its the old "by hand" way lol anyway your choise
