Electrical help with no spark.

[Luni]

Im looking to get a Blaster that has no spark. Or the spark it gets is very weak (I cant tell, it seems like its getting SOME spark, but it wont start and you cant pull/pushstart it and get it to kick on and stay running).

I have the manual, and Ive tested the ignition coil, and it was out of spec, so I replaced it (at this point, Im helping my girlfriends Dad troubleshoot it as its his quad), but the new coil didnt fix it (He bought it from a yamaha dealer)

I believe the issue is either the CDI box, or something down under the clutch cover (Stator is down there and theres another coil too I belive).

I also remember reading somethign about a flywheel key getting loose and causing it to not produce spark properly. And if I do need new ignition components, what is the best place online to get them from (lets say I replace the stator, and all applicable coils/ and a CDI box).

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[yb200]

Damn, man. I know how that feels. Electrical problems suck. Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good

 

[Luni]

Like I said in my post. I have already replaced the ignition coil with a brand new one. And Ive tested them both using a battery charger, when I connect the leads and give it power, they both produce good spark, so its something in the spark source, (as in the coils related to the stator) or the CDI box.

I also did a search and found that exact post, printed it out for reference, but Ive pretty much isolated the igntion coil out of the equation as both coils act the same way and the new coil from yamaha didnt fix the issue. I havent isolated the other 2 coils out of the equation yet, as Im pretty sure one of them or the CDI box is the source of my grief.

What Im really looking for is the best place to buy ignition components and a CDI box for this thing, that doesnt involve me paying an arm and a leg to a Yamaha dealership.

 

[yb200]

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
...............

 

[yb200]

Yamaha blaster complete engine wiring with cdi box 200 : eBay Motors (item 260545985542 end time Feb-06-10 20:17:45 PST)

2002 yamaha blaster cdi box : eBay Motors (item 110489467049 end time Feb-05-10 11:33:48 PST)

 

[rideyamaha09]

You can test the coils on the stator to see if they are the problem. I'm not sure of the exact numbers, but i know you just have to test the resistance of them while the motor is off. The specs might be in the downloadable manual in the General support section, I'll see if I can find them. I know its in clymer manuals but I don't have mine to look at it.

 

[rideyamaha09]

Its in the manual that is stickied in the General support section, it starts at page 206 and describes how to test all the different coils.

 

[Luni]

Ive got the manual, and one of the 2 coils in there test outside of range, so thats most likely the problem.

Guys, Im not a noob to troubleshooting crap. I know how to use a digital multimeter/test light. I can do electrical work, soldering, etc. I also know how to search ebay and find stuff on there.

I just know in niche circles, sometimes theres a company that does all sorts of things. Thought maybe someone on might be a vendor or someone who always has parts, etc.

If the best place to go is ebay, thats where Ill be checking.

Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[Luni]

Well, Ive got a wiring harness with a CDI box coming to me, and I have a working stator coming to me as well. Hopefully these will take care of my problem and Ill have a working blaster for around 300 bones.

 

[fioz600r]

Well, Ive got a wiring harness with a CDI box coming to me, and I have a working stator coming to me as well. Hopefully these will take care of my problem and Ill have a working blaster for around 300 bones.

You cant beat that price bro....

Hope this fixes your problem

 

[Luni]

Well, the snow finally melted enough for us to get it out and get it over to my garage.

I messed around with it yesterday.

Coil has been replaced. I have 2 coils, and they both test out ok. Primary stator coil fails. Secondary tests fine. Bike makes some spark, but its kind of a weak bluish color, and not a bright white like it should be. DMM registers about 4 volts max coming into the coil when I kick it.

I DID find a broken wire on the stator (theres a ground wire that grounds to a screw in the stator right by where the harness comes off the stator plate that I repaired), but still no lovin. I also have a spare wire harness with CDI box and all the stuff, so I swapped out the CDI box and the voltage regulator, still no lovin.

I coudlnt get the damn thing to start. We pulled it around my neighborhood a bit trying to pullstart it, and it finally started, the damn clutch stuck, and the thing wheelied and threw me off it while still attached to the car LOL. Anyway, after that, we couldnt really get it to run for whatever reason, then we checked the fuel and it was low. So I put some fuel in it, tried again, and coudlnt get crap but a sputter. The plug is wet with fuel, but its a brand new BP8ES plug gapped to .032 like the manual says to.

I have a spare stator I had to repair (had to resolder some wires back on it and repair the coil mounting point - it had a sheared bolt on it I had to drill out), Ill be putting back on it on saturday.

I really hope this is all the problem is, and it isnt the carb. It has an aftermarket carb on it, I know nothing about it. So, we will see what happens saturday.

 

[Luni]

Turns out the stator was the culprit. Changed that out and literally fired up on the first kick.

Now I just got to see if I can get the damn thing to idle. I cant.

Im told by some 2 stroke guys, it isnt a huge deal for them to not be able to idle, as you can just throttle them a little bit to get them to idle, and you dont really want to let your aircooled 2 stroke sit there and idle anyway. That true?