Custom Wiring?????

So i was wondering i it would be possible, and how to do it, to run say a 12V cigarette lighter outlet on my blaster???????

I'd like to outfit it with like maybe 1 single neon bar somewhere, but it only works on a outlet type plug. If i cut the plug off and try to wire it, it won't work right

Just wondering...
thanks!
 
i wouldn't want a cigarette lighter/power outlet on mine....sounds like a good place for a short.


you need to figure out what's in the plug that keeps you from being able to just wire it straight up and then add the resistors or whatever it is that's keeping it from working without the plug
 
There is a thread rolling around here somewhere that someone installed a cigarette lighter into the key switch.Not sure why you want or need a cigarette lighter on the blaster but to each his own.lol Must want to be able to light a scooby snack if you forget your loghter.haha
 
for the best operation of that, i'd say a battery is needed, theres also somewhere rolling around in the "diy" section an instructional on how to add a battery to a blaster,the battery fits in the hole behind the airbox
then with a battery, you can run any wattage lights you want
 
You could do some LED Lights instead , they draw almost no voltage , they do require a led load resistor but they are cheap on ebay and prevent the stator coil from blowing out the LED's you could have hundreds of them and light that bastard up like a UFO !!!!
 
The lighting coil and voltage regulator circuit operate on AC voltage. There is no rectifier on the system to modulate the voltage to DC so it would be difficult to get anything other than a tungsten filament bulb to work on the system.

With a large amount of work you COULD put a stator capable of running a battery and rectifier system on it and have a true 12 VDC system on board.
 
theres a "diy" on here explaining how to do the rectifier/regulator, float a ground in the stator, and run a battery, it even points out that mysteriously the "toolbox" under the seat is the perfect size for a battery, like yami may have planned for this ????
 
I think the battery in the tool box was on a DT swap. The charging system (if it even has something you could call a charging system) is only capable of putting out a few dozen watts to power lights and trickle charge back the battery. The only thing the battery powers is the power valve control box and it doesn't use much power at all. I know McDizzy put a battery in the tool box but I don't think there was a charging system installed. The power valve control box just draws very little power and he charges the battery when he gets home from each ride.

The lighting coil on the blaster is 55 watts factory with 75 watts possible with a different coil. The coil on the blaster puts out voltage ranging from 7 VAC-28VAC. The voltage regulator grounds off anything above 13 VAC which is why a filament bulb works well but at an idle the light goes dim.

The stator on something that is designed with a charging system installed is a multi coil system putting out about the same voltage but several hundred watts. A voltage regulator and rectifier are built into one unit which outputs ~13 VDC at varying amperage but somewhere between 1A and 15A depending on RPM. The difference isn't the rectifier (which can be purchased and wired into any AC power source in the right range). It's the stator assembly. The stator has a designed wattage output and that's all that's coming out of it. In the case of the blaster, they designed the coil to put out enough power at just above an idle to light a 35 watt bulb and a 5 watt bulb without burning out the voltage regulator. Any more wattage out of the coil would have to grounded out of the circuit by the voltage regulator which would eventually heat it up until it burnt it out.
 
Also, you're missing the point behind an LED. They are excellent light sources and with a little more work (currently under development) we'll all be lighting our houses and watching TV with them but they have their limitations.

They have two serious limitations. One, they are a Light Emitting Diode. A diode is designed, first and foremost, to control the path of power. Energy flows one direction through a diode. In the case of a LED, when power is flowing that way it produces light. Direct current is an excellent power source for LED's because the power is always on and flows in one direction. Alternating current however, does not. It doesn't play nice with things that are not designed to run on it.

Also, the voltage range for an LED is very sensitive. The upper limit is also very finite. The wire bridge inside the element itself is extremely sensitive to over voltage. Most LED's have, at most, a 1 volt range. Below that number they don't work and above they burn out.
 
hink you mite get away with either wiring it to the wire goin to tha ignition switch or maybe if you dont really care about youre taillight or something you may be able to just run it off its two wires?? hope this helpI:I