couple newbie questions

[hd17f]

im trying to get my blaster to run right just bought it dont know much about quads.... just install new plug, filter and coil with new bott.. i have spark ..compression is 110-120 cant really remember but its would ran then stall while driving and 4-5 kicks to start and i have to give it gas... pervious owner said he rebuild carb i didnt know tore it off and took it all apart gnna buy this ebay rebuild kit look here YAMAHA BLASTER 88-06 CARB REPAIR REBUILD KIT YFS200 - eBay (item 400164801524 end time Jan-14-11 20:50:08 PST) whats do u think


also i took the reed cage off and its got likke dual lookig reeds wanna reaplce them cant make up my mind theres

vitos dual pedal reed here YAMAHA BLASTER DUAL PEDAL REEDS - eBay (item 110450410209 end time Dec-20-10 11:36:19 PST)

or boyesen power reeds here

Boyesen Power Reeds Yamaha Blaster 200 88-06 - eBay (item 330391307692 end time Dec-26-10 11:39:17 PST)

or boyese super stock fiber reeds here

Boyesen Super Stock Fiber Reeds YFS200 Blaster 88-05 - eBay (item 220706075360 end time Jan-02-11 18:56:18 PST)


bike is totally stock but there two wires shrink wrap under the head light and two wires i think there tors cut on the carb yellow and black i think


im sry i cant type i really speak portuguese and type engilish is my 2nd language just trying to get the quad running right


also when i pulled the big need off the top off the carb and the big round metal thing with the needle sticking out of it its black and stained if that normal

 

[DirtDiggler]

110-120 is ok for compression , its not great and that means a new top end should be done soon . That means the cylinder needs to come off , and have it machined for the next size up piston .

I have Boyeson power reeds , and they work great , I also have a set of the vito's dual stage reeds I have never used , so I can't attest to their performance , but I hear they work good.

are you pre-mixing your fuel and oil ? or is the oil injection system still hooked up?
If the injector is still hooked up , get rid of it , plug/seal all the lines and remove the drive gear to the pump under the R side case cover. Its easy to do , just remove the pump , remove the worm gear inside it , then re-install the pump , you need to put the pump back on to prevent an air leak .

Air Leaks are a 2 stroke killer , any air getting into the crank case other than through the carb and being mixed with fuel .

Have you made any changes to the Intake? if you do you HAVE to re-jet the carb to protect the motor from damage . stock size jet is #230 , getting higher number jets increases the amount of fuel entering the engine . A good rule of thumb is always jet rich , too lean and KABOOM !!!!!! Engine goes kaput .

 

[hd17f]

110-120 is ok for compression , its not great and that means a new top end should be done soon . That means the cylinder needs to come off , and have it machined for the next size up piston .

oh great thats not what i wanted to do but i will if need be

I have Boyeson power reeds , and they work great , I also have a set of the vito's dual stage reeds I have never used , so I can't attest to their performance , but I hear they work good.

so are u all stock like me i only have a new stock air filter and i still have the lid on at all times i just didnt know if power reeds fit in stock cage and if u HAD to have mods done or will they wwkr for a stock bike... or just should i get stock fiber reeds

are you pre-mixing your fuel and oil ? or is the oil injection system still hooked up?
If the injector is still hooked up , get rid of it , plug/seal all the lines and remove the drive gear to the pump under the R side case cover. Its easy to do , just remove the pump , remove the worm gear inside it , then re-install the pump , you need to put the pump back on to prevent an air leak .

i thought of getting rid of it i heard u just plug the lines no need to remove everything but i can't find that link .....

Air Leaks are a 2 stroke killer , any air getting into the crank case other than through the carb and being mixed with fuel .

any good way to check for air leaks i use carb or throttle cleaner when working on cars with air leaks will that work or should i invest in a leakdown tester for quads

Have you made any changes to the Intake? if you do you HAVE to re-jet the carb to protect the motor from damage . stock size jet is #230 , getting higher number jets increases the amount of fuel entering the engine . A good rule of thumb is always jet rich , too lean and KABOOM !!!!!! Engine goes kaput .

no totally stock oem new filter stock exhaust everything stock just wanna get her to run good and not leave me stranded every time i drove her she leaves me stranded all four times... thank you for ur great advice and fast reply thanks any other advice or comments is appreciative

 

[hd17f]

also what do u think of this carb rebuild kit so i can rebuild my carb i took it all apart

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400164801524&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT


also check these pics out do they look normal theres some cut wires i dont know were they go please help me out thanks

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j316/kickass3931/blaster stuff/DSCN0787.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j316/kickass3931/blaster stuff/DSCN0788.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j316/kickass3931/blaster stuff/DSCN0789.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j316/kickass3931/blaster stuff/DSCN0790.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j316/kickass3931/blaster stuff/DSCN0791.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j316/kickass3931/blaster stuff/DSCN0792.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j316/kickass3931/blaster stuff/DSCN0793.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j316/kickass3931/blaster stuff/DSCN0794.jpg

 

[scotj77]

yes that is what the slide looks like after it is used for a long time. they all look like that. def resize your pics. if you use tinypics pick the measage board size

 

[hd17f]

yes that is what the slide looks like after it is used for a long time. they all look like that. def resize your pics. if you use tinypics pick the measage board size

so should i get a new one and the cylnider looking thing thats a slide j/w thanks sry the pics are so big can u tell me what the wires that are cut i think there tors there some cut flush were the thottle button is and fluch cut on the thing above the carb and also there two wires that are just hanging oin the front thanks

 

[scotj77]

the wires are the old tors stuff. sounds like it has been eliminated. no you don't need a new slide that one is probably fine the paint just wears off over time.

 

[hd17f]

ok also whats reeds should i get u think the boyesen super stock or power reeds or vitos duial pedals thanks so much and and advice on a good carb rebuild kit thanks so much

 

[hd17f]

nvm photobucket is being gay

 

[scotj77]

link doesn't work. but you should really look into a clymers manual. they are on ebay all the time. between 20 and 30 bucks. it's worth millions though. I liked the boysen carbon fiber reeds. they will say that they are for the rad valve if they aren't for the stock blasty reed cage. I haven't heard anything bad about any of the carb rebuild kits so you should be fine with whatever you get.

 

[hd17f]

ok so i rebuild the carb wit the carb rebuild kit off ebay set the pilot screw 1 1/2 out i got it to start idle i let it idle for 5 mins and went in the yard did some dounts and rode for about 2-3 mins... when i rolled in the driveway it just like died ..... same thing it used to do it also used to i dont know it might still even do it while riding it would just die but that was before the rebuild also i install new vitos dual pedal reeds and gasket ..... but i didnt install the ned needle and clip because i couldn't get the top carb piece the one with the springs thing back togeher so there in another one had laying around any ideas thanks

 

[scotj77]

you really need to put a little more ride time into it than 2-3 min. have you done a leakdown test on your blaster yet? if you had the reed cage off you need to. sure there isn't water in the gas tank?

 

[hd17f]

just went and rode it 1o mins after i put it away no i have fresh gas in the tank 87 octane i went and rode it for about 5 mins maybe 10 and it again died and wouldn't start at all could it be the long needle i didn't change or the idle screw i adjusted but i never adjust the pilot screw i was told u need to adjust both at same time

 

[Surfrjag]

should be using 93 octane... how did it act before it cut off? did you check your float height? be sure your petcock isnt clogged

 

[hd17f]

should be using 93 octane... how did it act before it cut off? did you check your float height? be sure your petcock isnt clogged

yea i measured it and it measured up to secs and do they have pe coock rebuild kit or do u just take it apart and clean everything and also i get great flow when i disconnect the hose for the carb... it was running great then it just died and woundn't start..... also would 93 make it died also the screw onthe very bottom of the carb the flow screw i think it called the one that if u loose in leaks gas out of the carb does that have a setting thanks so much

 

[royalt67]

yea i measured it and it measured up to secs and do they have pe coock rebuild kit or do u just take it apart and clean everything and also i get great flow when i disconnect the hose for the carb... it was running great then it just died and woundn't start..... also would 93 make it died also the screw onthe very bottom of the carb the flow screw i think it called the one that if u loose in leaks gas out of the carb does that have a setting thanks so much

No, that screw is just a bowl drain. BUT, Scot had a point about water. You could be putting the best gas in the world in there, but if there is already water in your tank, then you have a problem. To check this, get a nice clean bucket, take the fuel line off your carb, and drain all the fuel into the the bucket.

Let it sit for a while and examine the fuel in the bucket with a flashlight. If you see anything that looks like a bubble on the bottom of the bucket, that is water. It helps to tilt the bucket a little. Anything heavy like water will collect in the lowest spot.

If you find water, then you will need to clean the tank and empty the carb. You can reuse the fuel if you are careful to pour off the the fuel, leaving the water in the bucket.

Also, the wires under the hood are from removing the tors box. Are they well insulated? You don't want the black/white one to ground to the frame.

 

[hd17f]

ok ill check that also can any please please tell me how do i get the need with the clip i think it goes washer lil white plastic washer then needle on 2nd clip after that what do i do how do i get the spring and screw and everything back together i tired everything please help i tired push it and back together and get the cable to clip but the tension is hard thanks

 

[hd17f]

also i started in rev it up push the choke it will idle and rev up fine but it has done that fgreat since i bought it its when i go to drive it it when its leave me stuck and wont start its like kinda wierd any ideas appracatied