Computer (unichip) for blaster.
- Thread starter blasterdubai
- Start date
i put a bbk and a 3mm stroker in the 93 blaster, and had to unplug the over -rev switches and the triangle connector for the over-rev box under the hood.
it wouldn't rev up just bogged down no matter how i jetted it. i have been building and modding engines for years but it took a week of me rejetting and testing and scratching my head before i finally called vito's...
they didnt understand it either...so they did a whole group discussion with their staff about it at vito's and got back to me. told me to unplug the the switches and box.
went out and unplugged them and it ran like a champ.
yes, that triangle plug, and the tors brain under the hood, right below the cdi unit, and the switch in the tors unit on the top of a stock carb and in the thumb throttle
THATS THE TORS SYSTEM, NOT THE CDI, OR OVER REV LIMITERS OR WHATEVER ELSE "FUK'D UP VITO" TOLD YOU
THATS THE TORS SYSTEM, NOT THE CDI, OR OVER REV LIMITERS OR WHATEVER ELSE "FUK'D UP VITO" TOLD YOU
sounds liek you had a tors issue and thats what was messing up, again, there is no rev limiter on a blaster.... i formally challange anyone to get a vid of a blaster bouncing off the rev limiter, NOT THE TORS BUGGING OUT. lol I:I I:I
the tors unit has a switch, and there is one in the thumb throttle, and under the hood on the earlier models the is a box with a triangle connector.
this is the control for the over-rev switches (as told by vito's)
unplugged all three and the 1993 blaster would finally rev up.
vito's said they were over-rev switches... i unplugged em and it worked. thats all that matters to me
Well, maybe your blaster might beat my blaster, for now anyway...
But the thing is I dont care, ive just started.
But forget that for now. And at the start, when i first asked the question, i wasnt intent on getting it at all, but then, after a while i thought maybe this CDI unit might be good, sooo ya...
no doubt man. im not hating on anybody just telling it like it is, and for the record vitos is retarded and can barely manufacture parts much less give tech advise lol
i wasnt trying to brag about my blaster..... my point is you need to stop grabbing at every mod you see or hear about and get a package that works together.
Ya i doubt they want to convert it to fuel injection too... But if they are full of crap I will most definitely get my money back.
Im gonna have to speak to them ask them EXACTLY what it does and stuff like that, i wont get it unless i know exactly what their talking about.
i kind of trust this shop though, they did porting for me and other mods, bike came back pretty good, but im just gonna have to see.
AMEN TO WHAT BROTHER NOOBS PREACHES
and yeah, we weren't tryin to bust anyones balls, except fuktard vito, just havin a hard time getting our vast knowledge across,
trust what we say disciples wolf and dubai !!!!!!!!!!!
Ok i can agree with that. Ive already got porting, just waiting on a +4mm crankshaft (hot rods), bigger piston,carburetor boring, and milling my head...
But in the meantime i just wanted to know what else I could get so I found this CDI unit and I was interested.
NOTE: it might not be just the CDI unit i think their going to tune something using a computer, im not sure for the time being, i will call them though and ask them what it is COMPLETELY.
And then I will tell you guys exactly what it is.
Ya i guess you guys are right, i aint getting any CDI unit, too expansive, too unreliable, im just gonna get a hot rods crankshaft +4mm, a bigger piston, and mill my head.
Then ill work on the suspension.
Thanks anyway guysI:I
we run a Nology Coil
Project Blaster - Online Store
Yamaha Banshee - Dynatek Coil vs Nology Coil - Page 2 - Duner Central
They become a dealer on them. __________________
PM me for all of your ATV/MC performance needs:
Engine machinework & Porting
Custom Engines 2&4 stroke
Custom Chassis & Components
OEM & Aftermarket Parts
& More
If you want it we can build it!
and 4 strokes they have
Dynatek Coil good company
we run tokyo which is same as vortec but remapped
new add switch to change map revs for gate hole shot
Tokyomods 10 Map Ignition System
Tokyomods 10 map ignitions are manufactured by Vortex Performance - Inventors of the Dual Curve CDI lead the way again with X10 CDI the smallest and most Powerful Programmable CDI's available. The X10 CDI allows the user to select up to 10 different power modes as easily as adjusting clickers on your suspension. With the advent of X10 Technology the X10 CDI can be programmed with up to 10 Hi Resolution 3D Maps. This give the user the option to select from a range of power settings and customize the engines power delivery to suit a variety of rider styles, different track conditions, fuel octane levels or engine configurations. As with the Dual Curve CDI the X10 CDI also allows the rider to change power modes dynamically via a Handlebar Switch. From Mild to Wild the possibilities are endless with the X10 CDI.
Key Features:
- Pre Programmed with10 selectable power settings via X10 Switch
- Instant Plug in Performance (replaces standard CDI with no mods to wiring required)
- Handlebar Switch for Dynamic Map Selection
- Small for weight saving and ease of mounting
- Rubber Mounting Boot + Brackets supplied (where required)
- V-Boost - Internal Voltage Boost Circuit for maximizing Spark Energy across the entire rev range
- Power Jet Control - Multiple On / Off (where applicable)
- Rev Limiter (where required)
- Re-Programmable
http://www.tokyomods.com/honda/2004-2007%20TRX450.html
Project Blaster - Online Store
Yamaha Banshee - Dynatek Coil vs Nology Coil - Page 2 - Duner Central
They become a dealer on them. __________________
PM me for all of your ATV/MC performance needs:
Engine machinework & Porting
Custom Engines 2&4 stroke
Custom Chassis & Components
OEM & Aftermarket Parts
& More
If you want it we can build it!
and 4 strokes they have
Dynatek Coil good company
we run tokyo which is same as vortec but remapped
new add switch to change map revs for gate hole shot
Tokyomods 10 Map Ignition System
Tokyomods 10 map ignitions are manufactured by Vortex Performance - Inventors of the Dual Curve CDI lead the way again with X10 CDI the smallest and most Powerful Programmable CDI's available. The X10 CDI allows the user to select up to 10 different power modes as easily as adjusting clickers on your suspension. With the advent of X10 Technology the X10 CDI can be programmed with up to 10 Hi Resolution 3D Maps. This give the user the option to select from a range of power settings and customize the engines power delivery to suit a variety of rider styles, different track conditions, fuel octane levels or engine configurations. As with the Dual Curve CDI the X10 CDI also allows the rider to change power modes dynamically via a Handlebar Switch. From Mild to Wild the possibilities are endless with the X10 CDI.
Key Features:
- Pre Programmed with10 selectable power settings via X10 Switch
- Instant Plug in Performance (replaces standard CDI with no mods to wiring required)
- Handlebar Switch for Dynamic Map Selection
- Small for weight saving and ease of mounting
- Rubber Mounting Boot + Brackets supplied (where required)
- V-Boost - Internal Voltage Boost Circuit for maximizing Spark Energy across the entire rev range
- Power Jet Control - Multiple On / Off (where applicable)
- Rev Limiter (where required)
- Re-Programmable
http://www.tokyomods.com/honda/2004-2007%20TRX450.html
your max horsepower (the powerband) isnt goin to be any higher with this thing, so revving it high would probably be pointless. most people dont even rev it all the way out, they shift when the power starts to die off or hold the throttle so they stay in the powerband. revving it higher would only be pointless.
Info FAQ - Understanding Motorcycle Electrical Parts Q & Atators, Regulator Rectifiers and Other Motorcycle Electrical Parts Answers by
ElectroSport Industries
Question and answer session with ElectroSport Industries, a company who sells motorcycle parts worldwide. ElectroSport provides a large range of new ignition stators, lighting coils, CDI's and Dakar Dual Sport Kits for motorcycles and ATV's.
InfoFAQ: What is the difference between a single phase and 3 phase stator?
Answer: In general, 3-phase is more efficient for power generation. Anything that generates any power, needs to do it efficiently is built as a 3-phase unit. Any power plant is a 3-phase. Any car alternator is a 3-phase and most motorcycle alternators are 3-phase. It is an easy way of generating power efficiently and you get a nice flat power curve from low rpm up to high rpm and that is the biggest difference between a single phase and a 3-phase system. A single phase system is not as powerful, power is much more simple and are mainly used on small; smaller motorcycles with the exception of Harley. Harleys have been using single phase all the way back until 1998.â€
InfoFAQ: How do I check for spark?
Answer: You can check for spark a number of different ways. You can pull the plug out, stick your pinky in there and crank it. (laugh) That’s one way. But, the easiest way to do it is literally take the spark plug cap off, pull the spark plug out of the engine and crank the engine. Or, kick the engine over and see if you have spark on it. The spark plug has to be sitting on top of the cylinder head and obviously it needs to be sitting in the cap.
InfoFAQ: What does a Stator do?
Answer: A Stator mainly or only generates power. That’s what it does and that power can be used for different things. It can be used to provide energy to charge the battery. It can directly provide energy to power spark or it can provide energy to feed a headlight and taillight.
InfoFAQ: Tell me about the Regulator Rectifier. What does it do?
Answer: The regulator rectifier is a combined unit. It does the rectifying part as well the regulation part. It is part of a battery charging system. It gets a power feed, an AC power feed from the stator. Most of these regulator rectifiers and Stators are 3-Phase, for charging batteries, so there are three wires coming from the stator feeding into the regulator rectifier. Then the regulator rectifier “rectifies†it, and “regulates†the power to 14.5 volts and feeds a DC out to the battery. There are some single phase, regulator rectifiers as well that basically do the same thing. You have two wires coming from the stator, feeding into the regulator rectifier which is then connected up to the battery, so there is a DC output going to the battery.
InfoFAQ: What is the difference between AC and DC lighting?
Answer: Power generation in a coil, any coil, or any stator is only going to come out AC. Any coil can only generate AC power. It physically cannot make DC. Power always coming out is AC, it cannot generate DC power. Its that simple. You want to keep a system efficient for lighting purposes, a bulb doesn’t care if you feed it AC or DC and The bulb literally doesn’t care. Incandescent, halogen, or a regular bulb doesn’t care if it’s AC or DC. So you might as well, if the lighting coil generates AC, feed that AC straight into the bulb and the only thing you have to do is make sure that the voltage doesn’t go up to high. For that purpose, you use a small regulator that clamps between the power line and the ground. And what it does, it shorts out any excess power to ground, so it keeps the bulb nicely at 14 volts AC.
InfoFAQ: What does the CDI do?
Answer: A CDI is short for “Capacitor Discharge Ignitionâ€. A CDI is an electronic ignition that uses a capacitor to store energy to which then gets discharged through the ignition coil. The advantage of a CDI is that the spark energy is very high, you get a very powerful spark, very high voltage, so it’s ideal for 2-Strokes that would otherwise have fouling plugs. This was especially the case in the old days, gas and carburetion was pretty bad, lots of premix issues (laugh). So a CDI was a big advantage. The disadvantage of the CDI is that spark is very short in duration, so if the mixture doesn’t ignite exactly under spark occurrence, it doesn’t get a second chance. To ignite, it has to be right. That’s a capacitor discharge ignition. It’s very powerful in most dirtbikes using CDI ignitions, 4-strokes as well as 2-strokes. Most multi-cylinder street bikes use a different variation of the electronic ignition, called a transistorized ignition.
InfoFAQ: What is the purpose of a heavier flywheel?
Answer: Any engine, and we should probably refer to 4-strokes first. A 4-stroke has four strokes, of which one of the strokes is the power stroke in which it generates power. The acceleration from the piston actually accelerates the crankshaft during the power stroke. The idea is that the engine needs to keep running the crank shaft, which needs to keep running through the other 3-strokes, until it can hits another power stroke again. You need some flywheel mass and inertia on the crankshaft to keep the engine going. The more mass you put into the engine, the easier, the rounder it will run. It will even out all those engine pulses. It will also make the engine feel sluggish if you make it really heavy, and it will not be as snappy under power.
InfoFAQ: For someone riding on the east coast in the woods, that would be an advantage having a slightly heavier flywheel?
Answer: Yes. The Japanese are not far off with their flywheel weight, because they put some flywheel mass in to the crankshaft already. For typical woods riding you would want a little bit more flywheel weight. For typical track riding you want a little less flywheel weight.
InfoFAQ: When you say “Track†do you mean supermoto or motocross?
Answer: “Both†you want a little less flywheel weight inertia, you want a snappier response on the throttle.
InfoFAQ: Tell me about CDI mapping.
Answer: Any ignition on any motorcycle, any internal combustion engine, has an advance built in, that at low rpm. (Think of it this way) If you ignite a fuel mixture, it will take a certain amount of time before its completely ignited. All the mixture is burning inside the cylinder. It takes a certain amount of time. Say one millisecond. Takes one millisecond at 1000 rpm, it also take one millisecond at 8000 rpm, right. Now at 1000 rpm you would want maximum pressure above the piston just past top dead center, so you get maximum force pushing the piston down. Okay…so you figure it takes a milliseconds to ignite all this mixture to get to this maximum pressure, so your going at 1000 rpm, you know exactly how many crank degrees the crankshaft runs in 1 millisecond, and that will determine your timing for the ignition. You want to ignite it ahead of time, with maximum pressure at top dead center. The same is for 8000 rpm and the difference is that in that same 1 millisecond the crankshaft runs through many more degrees. 8 times as many, that’s why you need more advance at higher rpm. This is in general on a 4-stroke.
A 2-stroke has something funny happening, that actually responds better when you start retarding the ignition above say 2/3s of its normal rpm. So if a 2-stroke runs up to 9000 rpm, you start retarding from 6000 rpm on up and back down. Advancing up to 6, retarding after 6. 4-strokes don’t have that , they advance to a certain point and stay there usually. The modern 4-strokes have different maps for different throttle settings. They have a different advance, maximum advance for full throttle compared to half throttle or a third throttle or 8% throttle. So you have different maps for different throttle settings. You can change the delivery of power by changing the map.
InfoFAQ: And that could be done with a switch, say mounted on the handlebar?
Answer: Yes, but you have to program the maps in before hand and you can make the rider switch between say a power map and a traction map.
InfoFAQ: So they could use one for on the start of the race, going through the first turn and then switch to a curve for the rest of the track?
Answer: Yes, they could switch from one to the other map.
InfoFAQ: The winding materials used around the stator are generally painted or coated and if a customer notices before installation, that this costing has a “chip†in it, will this cause the part to fail?
Answer: All copper magnet wire that is used on any stator or even a transformer is coated with a clear coating and this is usually triple coated, which is a pretty hefty insulation coating around it. You normally don’t notice it, if you take a really close look, you will see that there is something shiny on it, on the copper, buts it’s a clear coating. That is the physical insulation coating which insulates. You start winding the stator with that wire and you have one layer and then you wrap the next layer of copper winding on top of the first layer that coating actually insulates the windings from each other.
InfoFAQ: So its not copper on top of copper?
Answer: Exactly, otherwise there would be no point in winding anything you would have one giant short. The blue coating that is being used in mostly our street bike range of stators, the 3-phase units, is only there to make the part look good and keep the winding nice and tightly together. You could use clear epoxy resin for that or you could use blue coating that we use, which works really well. If there’s a small chip that’s flakes off from that blue coating, it does not make any difference.
InfoFAQ: What is the best way to remove a flywheel?
Answer: Any flywheel that’s normally mounted on a taper crankshaft end. The taper is of a certain diameter, depending on the size of the flywheel and normally the flywheel is secured with a nut or bolt, most of the time it’s a nut. You first of all, remove the nut, take it off and for that you will need an impact wrench, that will take the nut off easily without spinning the crank. Then you would need a flywheel puller that grabs on to the boss of the flywheel, which is threaded and a center bolt with a flywheel puller pushes off against the stud on the crankshaft. If you tighten, if you screw the flywheel puller on the flywheel when you tighten the center bolt, you put tension on the flywheel, pulling tension then pulls it away from the crankshaft, you tighten it up, hit it with a hammer on the head on the center of the bolt, usually pops it off.
InfoFAQ: Some flywheels have holes, ventilation or something. Can’t you just put something in there to against the edge and wedge it between the side case?
Answer: You could do that if you are absolutely sure it will not destroy the crankcase or especially destroy the stator that’s sitting underneath the flywheel. We get a lot of stators returned. Or not returned, more that we see stators that are that damaged because people try to remove he flywheel nut especially and there is no way of holding the crankshaft apart from sticking a screw driver into the flywheel which then sits up against a stator winding and you try to loosen the nut and it destroys the stator winding.
InfoFAQ: So rule of thumb…Always use a flywheel puller?
Answer: Yes, a flywheel puller and an impact hammer to remove the nut. Lacking a hammer you can also use, and sometimes works, is to use a regular wrench on the nut, hold it tight into the nut, hold it down, and hit the end of the wrench with a hammer.
InfoFAQ: Should I replace the gasket on the side case, when I pull the sidecase to get at the flywheel?
Answer: Usually you should. If you’re careful you can quite often save the gasket, but it depends on how old the gasket is. How many hours are on the engine. You should normally replace the gasket, because you will not keep it leak free otherwise.
InfoFAQ: I’ve noticed that certain bikes have oil inside the flywheel and stator and others are dry, What’s the oil do?
Answer: The oil does a few things. For simplicity sake, stators do not mind running in oil. It does not make any difference for electrical performance. Oil is an insulator so you can have a stator that might be sitting in oil. If you want to keep the charging system simple, its obviously easier if you have oil in the engine already to make everything run wet in the oil, because you won’t have any seals to keep the oil out. Another advantage is that stator windings actually run cooler when there’s oil around them because it takes generated heat away, and it cools the windings.
InfoFAQ: Stator, Generator or Coil. What’s the difference?
Answer: There is no difference, the words they use, there fairly interchangeable. Theoretically, on old cars they were called generators. When they went to AC systems, they went to calling them “alternators†They started calling them “Alternators†and inside a generator or an alternator, you have a rotor and a stator. The rotor is the rotating part, the stator is the static part and on a stator, you have wound around a coil, which is just a winding basically, so many turns of copper wire which ever size, how many turns, so in the motorcycle field, people call stators “coils†sometimes, or generators or alternators or magnetos. It’s the same part that they are referring to.
InfoFAQ: I want to make my dirt bike street legal. What do I need?
Answer: Dirt bikes normally don’t have any way of powering any lighting. Any street bike needs lighting to be street legal. Headlight and the Taillight. It needs a brake light, needs blinkers and it needs a horn. Lighting needs to be DOT approved and you need, in most states, you will need a speedo so you can see what speed your actually going. There’s no way of powering all this stuff, so you need a to start with installing a lighting coil or a lighting stator in the dirt bike that will provide the electrical power. Next to that, you will need the headlight, taillight and blinker set with the turn switches so you can actually use it. We supply that as a kit which is our “Dakar†kit. Its complete with basically the complete electrical system you need including the battery that is needed, regulator rectifier that’s built in, flasher relay, all the connections are done in the kit and its easy to install as well. You need the lighting stator with, sometimes with, a flywheel to increase its output.
InfoFAQ: My battery keeps going flat. What could be wrong?
Answer: A whole bunch of different things could be wrong. Number one thing to check is bad connections. Charging systems for most motorcycles consist of a stator with wires going to a regulator rectifier and wire leads going to a battery. That’s the basic system. There’s connections in between those components that are quite often bad, dirty, and will give you a lot of trouble. That is most often the reason for systems not charging. Quite often the reason for the stator blowing up is because of a regulator failure. That’s the first thing to check. The battery could be bad or its an older battery and could have a short in it. They sometimes will work fine at lower rpm and soon as the output from the charging system goes up it starts shorting out internally. So a battery needs to be checked and the easiest place to check the charging system on a street bike is to use our fault finding chart which is a flow chart that will lead you, it will guide you through the different tests. The set up is simple questions with basically yes or no answers, and that will guide you to which components are faulty. You can get this at ElectroSport Industries - Motorcycle, Dirt Bike and ATV Aftermarket Electrical Parts just go to the link in the technical support area.
InfoFAQ: My engine runs for a bit and then shuts off. What could be the problem?
Answer: A whole bunch of different things. From carburetion, to ignition, to charging. If it’s a street bike first thing to do is check for spark and see if your loosing spark, You could see when the engine quits running if you push the starter button and it won’t even crank over , there’s a fair chance your battery’s flat. The battery’s flat because the charging system is not working properly that could be due to connections, bad regulator, bad stator , It could be loss of spark mainly dirtbikes if that is the case it could be the stator or it could be the CDI that’s to blame here. And obviously it can be carburetion. Just a simple blocked fuel filter. The first things is check to see if she wants to restart if it doesn’t crank over your battery’s flat so that’s a clear indication that your charging system is the issue and not the ignition system. IF the engine cranks over fine then your are looking at probably a bad CDI or a bad stator.
InfoFAQ: Are there any suggestions for keeping my bike stored for the winter?
Answer: Storage for winter? most importantly is that you store a bike clean with fresh oil in it and I suggest that it is wise if you own a motorcycle every two years to take the fairing parts off and disconnect each electrical connection one-by-one, spray them with some contact cleaner, and push them back together. That will basically prevent 90% of the electrical gremlins.
ElectroSport Industries
Question and answer session with ElectroSport Industries, a company who sells motorcycle parts worldwide. ElectroSport provides a large range of new ignition stators, lighting coils, CDI's and Dakar Dual Sport Kits for motorcycles and ATV's.
InfoFAQ: What is the difference between a single phase and 3 phase stator?
Answer: In general, 3-phase is more efficient for power generation. Anything that generates any power, needs to do it efficiently is built as a 3-phase unit. Any power plant is a 3-phase. Any car alternator is a 3-phase and most motorcycle alternators are 3-phase. It is an easy way of generating power efficiently and you get a nice flat power curve from low rpm up to high rpm and that is the biggest difference between a single phase and a 3-phase system. A single phase system is not as powerful, power is much more simple and are mainly used on small; smaller motorcycles with the exception of Harley. Harleys have been using single phase all the way back until 1998.â€
InfoFAQ: How do I check for spark?
Answer: You can check for spark a number of different ways. You can pull the plug out, stick your pinky in there and crank it. (laugh) That’s one way. But, the easiest way to do it is literally take the spark plug cap off, pull the spark plug out of the engine and crank the engine. Or, kick the engine over and see if you have spark on it. The spark plug has to be sitting on top of the cylinder head and obviously it needs to be sitting in the cap.
InfoFAQ: What does a Stator do?
Answer: A Stator mainly or only generates power. That’s what it does and that power can be used for different things. It can be used to provide energy to charge the battery. It can directly provide energy to power spark or it can provide energy to feed a headlight and taillight.
InfoFAQ: Tell me about the Regulator Rectifier. What does it do?
Answer: The regulator rectifier is a combined unit. It does the rectifying part as well the regulation part. It is part of a battery charging system. It gets a power feed, an AC power feed from the stator. Most of these regulator rectifiers and Stators are 3-Phase, for charging batteries, so there are three wires coming from the stator feeding into the regulator rectifier. Then the regulator rectifier “rectifies†it, and “regulates†the power to 14.5 volts and feeds a DC out to the battery. There are some single phase, regulator rectifiers as well that basically do the same thing. You have two wires coming from the stator, feeding into the regulator rectifier which is then connected up to the battery, so there is a DC output going to the battery.
InfoFAQ: What is the difference between AC and DC lighting?
Answer: Power generation in a coil, any coil, or any stator is only going to come out AC. Any coil can only generate AC power. It physically cannot make DC. Power always coming out is AC, it cannot generate DC power. Its that simple. You want to keep a system efficient for lighting purposes, a bulb doesn’t care if you feed it AC or DC and The bulb literally doesn’t care. Incandescent, halogen, or a regular bulb doesn’t care if it’s AC or DC. So you might as well, if the lighting coil generates AC, feed that AC straight into the bulb and the only thing you have to do is make sure that the voltage doesn’t go up to high. For that purpose, you use a small regulator that clamps between the power line and the ground. And what it does, it shorts out any excess power to ground, so it keeps the bulb nicely at 14 volts AC.
InfoFAQ: What does the CDI do?
Answer: A CDI is short for “Capacitor Discharge Ignitionâ€. A CDI is an electronic ignition that uses a capacitor to store energy to which then gets discharged through the ignition coil. The advantage of a CDI is that the spark energy is very high, you get a very powerful spark, very high voltage, so it’s ideal for 2-Strokes that would otherwise have fouling plugs. This was especially the case in the old days, gas and carburetion was pretty bad, lots of premix issues (laugh). So a CDI was a big advantage. The disadvantage of the CDI is that spark is very short in duration, so if the mixture doesn’t ignite exactly under spark occurrence, it doesn’t get a second chance. To ignite, it has to be right. That’s a capacitor discharge ignition. It’s very powerful in most dirtbikes using CDI ignitions, 4-strokes as well as 2-strokes. Most multi-cylinder street bikes use a different variation of the electronic ignition, called a transistorized ignition.
InfoFAQ: What is the purpose of a heavier flywheel?
Answer: Any engine, and we should probably refer to 4-strokes first. A 4-stroke has four strokes, of which one of the strokes is the power stroke in which it generates power. The acceleration from the piston actually accelerates the crankshaft during the power stroke. The idea is that the engine needs to keep running the crank shaft, which needs to keep running through the other 3-strokes, until it can hits another power stroke again. You need some flywheel mass and inertia on the crankshaft to keep the engine going. The more mass you put into the engine, the easier, the rounder it will run. It will even out all those engine pulses. It will also make the engine feel sluggish if you make it really heavy, and it will not be as snappy under power.
InfoFAQ: For someone riding on the east coast in the woods, that would be an advantage having a slightly heavier flywheel?
Answer: Yes. The Japanese are not far off with their flywheel weight, because they put some flywheel mass in to the crankshaft already. For typical woods riding you would want a little bit more flywheel weight. For typical track riding you want a little less flywheel weight.
InfoFAQ: When you say “Track†do you mean supermoto or motocross?
Answer: “Both†you want a little less flywheel weight inertia, you want a snappier response on the throttle.
InfoFAQ: Tell me about CDI mapping.
Answer: Any ignition on any motorcycle, any internal combustion engine, has an advance built in, that at low rpm. (Think of it this way) If you ignite a fuel mixture, it will take a certain amount of time before its completely ignited. All the mixture is burning inside the cylinder. It takes a certain amount of time. Say one millisecond. Takes one millisecond at 1000 rpm, it also take one millisecond at 8000 rpm, right. Now at 1000 rpm you would want maximum pressure above the piston just past top dead center, so you get maximum force pushing the piston down. Okay…so you figure it takes a milliseconds to ignite all this mixture to get to this maximum pressure, so your going at 1000 rpm, you know exactly how many crank degrees the crankshaft runs in 1 millisecond, and that will determine your timing for the ignition. You want to ignite it ahead of time, with maximum pressure at top dead center. The same is for 8000 rpm and the difference is that in that same 1 millisecond the crankshaft runs through many more degrees. 8 times as many, that’s why you need more advance at higher rpm. This is in general on a 4-stroke.
A 2-stroke has something funny happening, that actually responds better when you start retarding the ignition above say 2/3s of its normal rpm. So if a 2-stroke runs up to 9000 rpm, you start retarding from 6000 rpm on up and back down. Advancing up to 6, retarding after 6. 4-strokes don’t have that , they advance to a certain point and stay there usually. The modern 4-strokes have different maps for different throttle settings. They have a different advance, maximum advance for full throttle compared to half throttle or a third throttle or 8% throttle. So you have different maps for different throttle settings. You can change the delivery of power by changing the map.
InfoFAQ: And that could be done with a switch, say mounted on the handlebar?
Answer: Yes, but you have to program the maps in before hand and you can make the rider switch between say a power map and a traction map.
InfoFAQ: So they could use one for on the start of the race, going through the first turn and then switch to a curve for the rest of the track?
Answer: Yes, they could switch from one to the other map.
InfoFAQ: The winding materials used around the stator are generally painted or coated and if a customer notices before installation, that this costing has a “chip†in it, will this cause the part to fail?
Answer: All copper magnet wire that is used on any stator or even a transformer is coated with a clear coating and this is usually triple coated, which is a pretty hefty insulation coating around it. You normally don’t notice it, if you take a really close look, you will see that there is something shiny on it, on the copper, buts it’s a clear coating. That is the physical insulation coating which insulates. You start winding the stator with that wire and you have one layer and then you wrap the next layer of copper winding on top of the first layer that coating actually insulates the windings from each other.
InfoFAQ: So its not copper on top of copper?
Answer: Exactly, otherwise there would be no point in winding anything you would have one giant short. The blue coating that is being used in mostly our street bike range of stators, the 3-phase units, is only there to make the part look good and keep the winding nice and tightly together. You could use clear epoxy resin for that or you could use blue coating that we use, which works really well. If there’s a small chip that’s flakes off from that blue coating, it does not make any difference.
InfoFAQ: What is the best way to remove a flywheel?
Answer: Any flywheel that’s normally mounted on a taper crankshaft end. The taper is of a certain diameter, depending on the size of the flywheel and normally the flywheel is secured with a nut or bolt, most of the time it’s a nut. You first of all, remove the nut, take it off and for that you will need an impact wrench, that will take the nut off easily without spinning the crank. Then you would need a flywheel puller that grabs on to the boss of the flywheel, which is threaded and a center bolt with a flywheel puller pushes off against the stud on the crankshaft. If you tighten, if you screw the flywheel puller on the flywheel when you tighten the center bolt, you put tension on the flywheel, pulling tension then pulls it away from the crankshaft, you tighten it up, hit it with a hammer on the head on the center of the bolt, usually pops it off.
InfoFAQ: Some flywheels have holes, ventilation or something. Can’t you just put something in there to against the edge and wedge it between the side case?
Answer: You could do that if you are absolutely sure it will not destroy the crankcase or especially destroy the stator that’s sitting underneath the flywheel. We get a lot of stators returned. Or not returned, more that we see stators that are that damaged because people try to remove he flywheel nut especially and there is no way of holding the crankshaft apart from sticking a screw driver into the flywheel which then sits up against a stator winding and you try to loosen the nut and it destroys the stator winding.
InfoFAQ: So rule of thumb…Always use a flywheel puller?
Answer: Yes, a flywheel puller and an impact hammer to remove the nut. Lacking a hammer you can also use, and sometimes works, is to use a regular wrench on the nut, hold it tight into the nut, hold it down, and hit the end of the wrench with a hammer.
InfoFAQ: Should I replace the gasket on the side case, when I pull the sidecase to get at the flywheel?
Answer: Usually you should. If you’re careful you can quite often save the gasket, but it depends on how old the gasket is. How many hours are on the engine. You should normally replace the gasket, because you will not keep it leak free otherwise.
InfoFAQ: I’ve noticed that certain bikes have oil inside the flywheel and stator and others are dry, What’s the oil do?
Answer: The oil does a few things. For simplicity sake, stators do not mind running in oil. It does not make any difference for electrical performance. Oil is an insulator so you can have a stator that might be sitting in oil. If you want to keep the charging system simple, its obviously easier if you have oil in the engine already to make everything run wet in the oil, because you won’t have any seals to keep the oil out. Another advantage is that stator windings actually run cooler when there’s oil around them because it takes generated heat away, and it cools the windings.
InfoFAQ: Stator, Generator or Coil. What’s the difference?
Answer: There is no difference, the words they use, there fairly interchangeable. Theoretically, on old cars they were called generators. When they went to AC systems, they went to calling them “alternators†They started calling them “Alternators†and inside a generator or an alternator, you have a rotor and a stator. The rotor is the rotating part, the stator is the static part and on a stator, you have wound around a coil, which is just a winding basically, so many turns of copper wire which ever size, how many turns, so in the motorcycle field, people call stators “coils†sometimes, or generators or alternators or magnetos. It’s the same part that they are referring to.
InfoFAQ: I want to make my dirt bike street legal. What do I need?
Answer: Dirt bikes normally don’t have any way of powering any lighting. Any street bike needs lighting to be street legal. Headlight and the Taillight. It needs a brake light, needs blinkers and it needs a horn. Lighting needs to be DOT approved and you need, in most states, you will need a speedo so you can see what speed your actually going. There’s no way of powering all this stuff, so you need a to start with installing a lighting coil or a lighting stator in the dirt bike that will provide the electrical power. Next to that, you will need the headlight, taillight and blinker set with the turn switches so you can actually use it. We supply that as a kit which is our “Dakar†kit. Its complete with basically the complete electrical system you need including the battery that is needed, regulator rectifier that’s built in, flasher relay, all the connections are done in the kit and its easy to install as well. You need the lighting stator with, sometimes with, a flywheel to increase its output.
InfoFAQ: My battery keeps going flat. What could be wrong?
Answer: A whole bunch of different things could be wrong. Number one thing to check is bad connections. Charging systems for most motorcycles consist of a stator with wires going to a regulator rectifier and wire leads going to a battery. That’s the basic system. There’s connections in between those components that are quite often bad, dirty, and will give you a lot of trouble. That is most often the reason for systems not charging. Quite often the reason for the stator blowing up is because of a regulator failure. That’s the first thing to check. The battery could be bad or its an older battery and could have a short in it. They sometimes will work fine at lower rpm and soon as the output from the charging system goes up it starts shorting out internally. So a battery needs to be checked and the easiest place to check the charging system on a street bike is to use our fault finding chart which is a flow chart that will lead you, it will guide you through the different tests. The set up is simple questions with basically yes or no answers, and that will guide you to which components are faulty. You can get this at ElectroSport Industries - Motorcycle, Dirt Bike and ATV Aftermarket Electrical Parts just go to the link in the technical support area.
InfoFAQ: My engine runs for a bit and then shuts off. What could be the problem?
Answer: A whole bunch of different things. From carburetion, to ignition, to charging. If it’s a street bike first thing to do is check for spark and see if your loosing spark, You could see when the engine quits running if you push the starter button and it won’t even crank over , there’s a fair chance your battery’s flat. The battery’s flat because the charging system is not working properly that could be due to connections, bad regulator, bad stator , It could be loss of spark mainly dirtbikes if that is the case it could be the stator or it could be the CDI that’s to blame here. And obviously it can be carburetion. Just a simple blocked fuel filter. The first things is check to see if she wants to restart if it doesn’t crank over your battery’s flat so that’s a clear indication that your charging system is the issue and not the ignition system. IF the engine cranks over fine then your are looking at probably a bad CDI or a bad stator.
InfoFAQ: Are there any suggestions for keeping my bike stored for the winter?
Answer: Storage for winter? most importantly is that you store a bike clean with fresh oil in it and I suggest that it is wise if you own a motorcycle every two years to take the fairing parts off and disconnect each electrical connection one-by-one, spray them with some contact cleaner, and push them back together. That will basically prevent 90% of the electrical gremlins.
we ran this on a minni quad but it requires a battery
- ADJUSTABLE DC HI-PERFORMANCE CDI BOX
- Most advanced brain box on the market for minis. Switches your ignition system from AC to DC for a much stronger and cleaner spark. Integrated computer chip advances timing 25 degrees on take off for best bottom end then retards back to zero as it reaches higher RPMs.
- DCCDI
Last edited:
