Blaster runs for a couple seconds then bogs and dies

[TrailRider]

Hi guys. New to this thread and just had a question on my 2003 blaster. So me and my co-worker did a top end rebuild on it tried to fire it up and it took forever to kick over which I expected it to because it sat for 10 years before I picked it up. It is bored 20 over has a fmf gold series fatty with a fmf power core 2 silencer also has vforce 4 reeds which are brand new. It’s a 260 main jet and have no idea what the pilot jet is. I just don’t know what it could be. I haven’t compression tested it because I don’t have one. I also haven’t leak down tested it because I don’t have one of those either. I was thinking maybe woodruff key at this point. I have it at a shop now because I was lost but it’s still 3 weeks out before they look at it and was wondering if maybe anyone else knew what it could possibly be. The air box lid is also off. I’ve cleaned the carb put a brand new main jet in it. The tors is disconnected like there is no wires connected at all to it everything for it is clipped which I got it like that. I checked the floats which were at 20.5-21mm and aren’t sticking. I’m just lost at what it could be. It feels like it has good compression I have changed the plug 3 times. I know the filter or something for the fuel being on is plugged but the reserve one flows good so I’ve been having to use that. But when it does run like I said runs for 2-3 seconds max and then dies and when I try and give it any gas it will bog and die so either way it dies. I’ve searched and searched this forums up and down and looked at everything I could look at with my available tools and that I thought could be it and nothing has helped so I figured I would post and explain my problem I’m having cause it seems nobody else is having it

thanks

 

[Larry's Shee]

Air Fire Fuel
Which are you missing?

Did you bypass the TORS or was it already done ?? It has to be done PROPERLY or you’ll have all kinds of problems.
PROPER WAY : https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors-03-06-models.41973/

It’s going to be hard now that it’s not in front of you. Not to mention you’ve opened yourself to be raped by the shop. Unless they know much about Blasters they’ll probably start shotgunning parts at it.

Two strokes MUST be leak down tested any time they are torn down. While it’s not likely that would would keep it from starting UNLESS it was a HUGE LEAK
I’d call the shop and see if you take it back home until your slot comes up will you loose your spot for getting out of line, so to speak.​

 

[TrailRider]

I have air fuel and spark so idk what it is I’ll probably just have them leak down test it or like you said call and see if I can just hold a spot even tho I am pretty sure they said that it’s first come first serve but I’ll definitely call and see. Also with the TORS I have no idea if it was done right cause that’s how I bought it I’m assuming that that is what’s causing all the problems to it now cause I’m sure the last owner screwed it up but when it does rev when I do get it to run for a little bit and I can go higher up in the rpm’s I’m also assuming it ran just fine before with the way the old owners did it because it blew the top end on it. When I first got it running it smelled like the exhaust was burning instead of a typical 2 stroke smell idk if that could lead to any problems or tell you about any problems

 

[Miker1st]

If you can get it kicked over and idling but not revving, even if it takes a bunch of kicks, it may be timing/ignition stator, so your Woodruff key idea is valid. Like Larry said, it's gunna be hard not having it in front of you.

Learning about how to delete the TORS properly and chasing the wiring back on your blaster yourself would be incredibly useful to verify.

Definitely get the compression test and leak down test done. The leak down testers can be built for about 40 bucks in hardware from your local Home Depot/Lowes/Ace Hardware.

You mention you're having issues with fuel flow to the carb in the "On" position of the petcock, but the "Reserve" works fine. Are you using a clear fuel line from the tank to the carb so you can watch fuel flow? I had an issue where I wasn't getting enough fuel through a filter between the tank and the carb and it would run, bog, and die until I removed the fuel filter and went direct tank to carb.

I just redid the top end on my '01 with the FMF Fatty and Powercore II Silencer. FMF Calls for a 270 MJ to start with for that exhaust. I started out with a 290 Main Jet with that setup because I don't have an airbox lid. Better safe then blown up again.

 

[TrailRider]

I’ll definitely tell the shop to check over those things and then when I get it back I’m gonna have to get a 290 especially since it’s bored over 20 on top of that and I took the fuel line off to look at it and I turned it on nothing came out and then I put it on reserve and it came out at a constant flow. I should replace those lines on it after I clean it out or have the shop do it I don’t have a flywheel puller or anything to get it off so I wasn’t able to check it but I’m gonna call the shop and tell them to look at those things. That was my last thing I was gonna check then I realized that it takes more tools than I had that’s why I took it there but thank you so much I will definitely have them check it

 

[Miker1st]

Yeah ma, you'll get it! These Blasters are AWESOME! They just take a bit of a learning curve to get them up and running. The flywheel puller is like 8 bucks on Amazon and totally worth it. I've probably used mine 20 times since I got it.

 

[TrailRider]

I thought about getting one just don’t wanna mess it up before june especially since I am going camping and plan on riding some trails then too but I will definitely get one just to have it to be safe!!

 

[Miker1st]

Yeah man. The thing that got me was the torque for the flywheel jam nut. The original that came with my blaster was something harder than the Vitos +3mm stroker crank that was in the engine and ripped the threads off the end of the crankshaft. Now I run a softer metal jam nut and no washer so I don't have to replace the crankshaft....yet...

The friction/interference fit on the flywheel to shaft is more important IMHO than 58 Ft Lbs of torque on that poor jam nut.

So what I did was run some lapping compound (available at any auto parts store) on the crankshaft where the flywheel goes, and then using a wire cup brush on my drill, spun the flywheel around on the shaft for about a minute or so. What that does is make the surface of both the crankshaft and flywheel mate super smoothly. It's important to clean all that compound outta there before reassembly. The Woodruff key is just to help maintain timing alignment when you reinstall the flywheel. It doesn't stand up to the sheer forces of rotation well, so that's why the friction fit is super important.

This is my hard learned lesson of the day, so that you don't have to!

 

[TrailRider]

I appreciate it!! I will definitely make sure that the shop does that before I get it back cause I’m not gonna pay them to just screw it up! But thank you for everything you have been telling me it will help me a lot with this blaster!!

 

[Larry's Shee]

This little tip/trick should be done by everyone, especially if the crank/flywheel is new or different to each other
https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/flywheel-to-crank-lapping-vid.58463/

Though some may disagree a bit of
locktite wouldn’t hurt. No stronger than blue but even purple (light duty) would work, especially if you have to delete the washer. Some say it messes with torque value, but I searched their website and it only changes it a tiny amount.

 

[Tooloose]

Hi guys. New to this thread and just had a question on my 2003 blaster. So me and my co-worker did a top end rebuild on it tried to fire it up and it took forever to kick over which I expected it to because it sat for 10 years before I picked it up. It is bored 20 over has a fmf gold series fatty with a fmf power core 2 silencer also has vforce 4 reeds which are brand new. It’s a 260 main jet and have no idea what the pilot jet is. I just don’t know what it could be. I haven’t compression tested it because I don’t have one. I also haven’t leak down tested it because I don’t have one of those either. I was thinking maybe woodruff key at this point. I have it at a shop now because I was lost but it’s still 3 weeks out before they look at it and was wondering if maybe anyone else knew what it could possibly be. The air box lid is also off. I’ve cleaned the carb put a brand new main jet in it. The tors is disconnected like there is no wires connected at all to it everything for it is clipped which I got it like that. I checked the floats which were at 20.5-21mm and aren’t sticking. I’m just lost at what it could be. It feels like it has good compression I have changed the plug 3 times. I know the filter or something for the fuel being on is plugged but the reserve one flows good so I’ve been having to use that. But when it does run like I said runs for 2-3 seconds max and then dies and when I try and give it any gas it will bog and die so either way it dies. I’ve searched and searched this forums up and down and looked at everything I could look at with my available tools and that I thought could be it and nothing has helped so I figured I would post and explain my problem I’m having cause it seems nobody else is having it

thanks

Find a working TORS system and reinstall it! Remove peacock on tank and clean it, so that fuel supply from tank to carburetor flows freely when it’s turned to the On position and reserve both.

 

[Tooloose]

Find a working TORS system and reinstall it! Remove peacock on tank and clean it, so that fuel supply from tank to carburetor flows freely when it’s turned to the On position and reserve both. Have a Yamaha dealer set the TORS system to factory specs.