Car stereo system?!?

Rashid1739

New Member
Apr 9, 2012
198
4
23
Fond du Lac, WI
So I wanna put a system in my ranger. Can I hook an amp up to any aftermarket stereo or only certain ones? And what are good brands or stereo systems (subs, amps, speakers, radios)? I have two pioneer speakers hooked up to the stock system right now so I would use those in my system. Also are the channels on the amps for subs, and speakers? Or just subs? Or just speakers? Sorry if it seems like dumb questions, I'm a newbie at systems. Plus what are cheap but good subs, amps, radios, and speakers? Also post pictures if your setups! But make sure to give me advise too!!!!
 
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You can hook an amp to any stereo but if it doesn't have rca outputs you will need a line level converter. I've always had good luck with Pioneer car audio equipment but there are lots of good manufacturers out there and there's a big range of stuff from absolute garbage to unobtanium. Get yourself a Crutchfield catalog, they aren't the cheapest distributor out there but they really go out of their way to inform and help the do-it-yourselfer.
 
You can hook an amp to any stereo but if it doesn't have rca outputs you will need a line level converter. I've always had good luck with Pioneer car audio equipment but there are lots of good manufacturers out there and there's a big range of stuff from absolute garbage to unobtanium. Get yourself a Crutchfield catalog, they aren't the cheapest distributor out there but they really go out of their way to inform and help the do-it-yourselfer.

So in other words get a stereo with an RCA output?
 
Yeah they are the same thing, the ends on them look like the a/v connectors on your Nintendo/XBox/TV. I put this: Pioneer DEH-X3500UI CD receiver at Crutchfield.com my girlfriend's 4Runner this weekend and I'm impressed with the initial quality, more importantly she is happy : ) You will also need an install kit (Rangers have an odd sized dash hole) an electrical meter, and an amp wiring kit when you go that route. Is there a head unit in your vehicle right now or at least the wiring connector? If your harness is botched up it complicates things and you might want to pay a pro to install it.
 
Also what year and body style is your Ranger? I used to have a single cab '05 with a Pioneer head unit and 4 middle of the line Pioneer speakers (two on the doors two behind the seat). It was pretty loud with just this setup, and it was kind of expensive/technical/unnecessary to put in a sub. If you really want to bump though the sky is the limit.
 
im running a kenwood deck kicker amp and two crossfire bmfs (12's)

its not so much your system, wiring has alot to do with it. as in im running 1200 watts to my subs so 600 a peice, instead of using persay a 1200 watt wiring kit, im using a 00gauge power wire, 0 gauge ground, speaker wire for my remote wire(better clarity) upgraded rcas and me and my friend spent some time getting it tuned just right.

then again this is in a jeep, and i took the time to "professional" install my stuff
 
Also what year and body style is your Ranger? I used to have a single cab '05 with a Pioneer head unit and 4 middle of the line Pioneer speakers (two on the doors two behind the seat). It was pretty loud with just this setup, and it was kind of expensive/technical/unnecessary to put in a sub. If you really want to bump though the sky is the limit.

haha i have a 95' ford ranger hits harder than any ranger in the surrounding area i have two 12'' pioneers in it.
 
The thing I don't get is if you just wire the subs to the amp, do you just keep your speakers wired to the original harness? And if you do does it sound good with just the subs wired to the amp, with the speakers in the stock harness? Or would I be better off wireing the speakers and subs to the amp?
 
You want to run one amp dedicated to the subwoofers. Pick a sub setup that you want and will fit in your truck then get an amp that will match the subwoofers. You can upgrade to aftermarket speaker in your stock locations. Same as the subwoofers , get the speakers then find an amp to match. The sub amp channels depend on if your going to run one or two subs. There's a lot of ways you can go with amps and subs.
 
im running a kenwood deck kicker amp and two crossfire bmfs (12's)

its not so much your system, wiring has alot to do with it. as in im running 1200 watts to my subs so 600 a peice, instead of using persay a 1200 watt wiring kit, im using a 00gauge power wire, 0 gauge ground, speaker wire for my remote wire(better clarity) upgraded rcas and me and my friend spent some time getting it tuned just right.

then again this is in a jeep, and i took the time to "professional" install my stuff

You are right about most of this stuff, an amp kit isn't a good place to cheap out. However you want to make your Ground larger than your power wire not the other way around, also there is no reason to up-size your remote wire all it is doing is telling the amp to turn on or off.

Gizzy: I've done two 12's behind the seat in a single cab S-10, It definitely pounded. After that I added two 15's and two 10's in my windowless canopy with a rubber boot connecting it to the cab. It hit so hard it started flexing the paint off of the fiberglass, oh to be a teenager again:D

A class D mono amp is the most effecient compact way to power a sub, that's what i used in the previously mentioned Ranger with a MTX thunderform MTX RMP101C Charcoal Thunderform Loaded Car Audio Ford Ranger 98'-05' - RMP101C because there was almost no room behind the seat. I never bothered getting an amp for component speakers because it really wasn't necessary in that truck
 
You are right about most of this stuff, an amp kit isn't a good place to cheap out. However you want to make your Ground larger than your power wire not the other way around, also there is no reason to up-size your remote wire all it is doing is telling the amp to turn on or off.

Gizzy: I've done two 12's behind the seat in a single cab S-10, It definitely pounded. After that I added two 15's and two 10's in my windowless canopy with a rubber boot connecting it to the cab. It hit so hard it started flexing the paint off of the fiberglass, oh to be a teenager again:D

A class D mono amp is the most effecient compact way to power a sub, that's what i used in the previously mentioned Ranger with a MTX thunderform MTX RMP101C Charcoal Thunderform Loaded Car Audio Ford Ranger 98'-05' - RMP101C because there was almost no room behind the seat. I never bothered getting an amp for component speakers because it really wasn't necessary in that truck

So in other words just keep the speakers wired to the stock harness?
 
I would buy some quality speakers to begin with and see if you're happy with that. Rangers usually have an odd ball 5x7 speaker that doesn't typically handle tons of power but like I said in my single cab Ranger with a powerful head unit (pretty similar to yours) it actually sounded really good. I stuck with Pioneer speakers because they are an oem supplier to Ford and fit like a glove, where a lot of other brands you have to jerry rig them in. You can get really crazy with amps and such if you really want to and have the $$ but you're probably going to want really high end speakers or some fab work to put bigger speakers in if you go that route.
 
I guess I should probably answer the question you asked me while I'm at it, lol. If your factory harness is in good shape you should use it. The cost and hassle of pulling new wires isn't worth it unless you're using competition level speakers and a really serious amp. Any loss when running the factory 18 gauge wire vs. say 14 gauge will be inaudible. Also Ford engineers are usually pretty smart and will locate those wires where they aren't subject to electrical interference or abrasion. Here is a speaker wire calculator if anybody is interested: http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwireselectorassistant.swf
 
I guess I should probably answer the question you asked me while I'm at it, lol. If your factory harness is in good shape you should use it. The cost and hassle of pulling new wires isn't worth it unless you're using competition level speakers and a really serious amp. Any loss when running the factory 18 gauge wire vs. say 14 gauge will be inaudible. Also Ford engineers are usually pretty smart and will locate those wires where they aren't subject to electrical interference or abrasion. Here is a speaker wire calculator if anybody is interested: http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwireselectorassistant.swf

Well that sounds awesome cuz I'm running pioneer speakers right now! So I'll save some money