bot a blaster, came with fast parts for install.. please help :)

[nick20555]

Am i missing something? The bore is .080 over... Just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.

He says stock bore but I think hes just talking about your stock cylinder, even being bored out, doesn't compare to a big bore. Stock is a 195cc; being bored .080 over is only increasing to a 68mm piston making it a 207cc. A big bore is a 72mm piston making it a 232cc which is a lot more increase than just boring stock cylinder .080 over. The high volume pipes are designed around the big bores size so only being .080 over is not the same.

And just so we can clear up and get off the topic of air leaks (if done right), what process did you use to verify you are "leak free"? Because firing it up and checking for leaks is not leak free. With 2 stroke motors, you have to ensure that everything is air tight by remove the carb and exhaust, plugging the exhaust port, and pressurizing the motor with a leak tester and see if it holds pressure. Any other kind of test will not truly tell you that your motor is leak free. So did you do a proper leak test as described or did you just check for leaks?

 

[jus_me]

.80 over is not refered to a big bore as far as i know .80"" over is a 68 mm. it is closer than a stock 66 mm but the volume on those pipes are for a high rpm true big bore cyl and probaly more like a stroker crank also..

Not saying it isnt clean but how would you know if the pilot is clean if it hasnt been taken out and you didnt know where it was. ??

 

[jus_me]

^^^^ took the words out of my mouth lol...

 

[brianblasts]

.80 over is not refered to a big bore as far as i know .80"" over is a 68 mm. it is closer than a stock 66 mm but the volume on those pipes are for a high rpm true big bore cyl and probaly more like a stroker crank also..

Not saying it isnt clean but how would you know if the pilot is clean if it hasnt been taken out and you didnt know where it was. ??

Huh???

I meant find replacement pilot jets online to purchase to try some different sizes lol

Guys im not telling half truths or trying to debate anything. Im in new territory with this and just trying to follow along with what your saying and learn this stuff. Up untill this past weekend i had never worked on a motor like this. Chevy is a lot different then This stuff. I humbly inquire help.

The big bore thing.... Now i know, thank you.
The leak down test, not as involved as discribed. I have all the tools a man cave could desire, i will do it like discribed above and post up pics and info.

I plan on looking into the slide thingy and smaller main jet first. This weekend i will also do a thorough leak down test(i would be very surprised if it is leaking) and make sure its not part of the equation. I would expect a more consisstant high idle then we are getting if it was leaking. We are able to idle it right down to stalling out. We have had a couple times when it would race up and not shut off(slide thingy???) so hope that clears up the high idle thing if i stated it confusingly earlier in the thread.

Brian

 

[Larry's Shee]

This is what I use: http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-94190.html
Actually for Chevies and Supras Drawback is you either have to remove the tank to get it it plug hole, or I drilled a hole in the PVC cap I use for carb boot and "glued" the adapter in with 3bond.

If you push throttle fully open then allow it to "snap" shut and hear the slide bottom out, and do this a dozen or so times, if it snaps shut each and every time, that is not your problem.

With a spacer you have one more place for an air leak, which the carb boot and reed cage can get warped from improper torquing.

Until you confirm that you have done a PROPER/CORRECT leakdown test, anything anyone or you say is pointless.

As to the pilot jet, the stock one works in 99.99% of those using a stock carb. I'm the only one that I know of using a pilot from a Vito's "kit". It is a Mikuni, I just never looked at it for size, when I put the kit in 4+yrs ago.

 

[Blaaster]

If you think that it may have an air leak, then test it before you ride it again.


An engine must be leak free to be able to select the correct jets, you will just be chasing your tail if the engine is leaky.

 

[nick20555]

Huh???

I meant find replacement pilot jets online to purchase to try some different sizes lol

Guys im not telling half truths or trying to debate anything. Im in new territory with this and just trying to follow along with what your saying and learn this stuff. Up untill this past weekend i had never worked on a motor like this. Chevy is a lot different then This stuff. I humbly inquire help.

The big bore thing.... Now i know, thank you.
The leak down test, not as involved as discribed. I have all the tools a man cave could desire, i will do it like discribed above and post up pics and info.

I plan on looking into the slide thingy and smaller main jet first. This weekend i will also do a thorough leak down test(i would be very surprised if it is leaking) and make sure its not part of the equation. I would expect a more consisstant high idle then we are getting if it was leaking. We are able to idle it right down to stalling out. We have had a couple times when it would race up and not shut off(slide thingy???) so hope that clears up the high idle thing if i stated it confusingly earlier in the thread.

Brian

We are not trying to dog on you about things. We are here to help you. We understand that you are new to these 2 strokes and that cars a completely different. We are just trying to help you work thru your problems and learn what is needed to have your blaster running top notch.

The order that things need to be done if you only want to do it once and do it right is:
leak test (the right way). It sounds pointless and stupid and can be a pain in the ass but it is absolutely essential to keep from blowing your motor and also to get jetting spot on
Then ensure proper float height
Then on to pilot/air screw adjustment
Then needle and slide adjustments
Then main jet

It needs done in that order because everything on that list effects everything that follows (can't jet without leak proof, can't jet without float correct, can't get needle right without correct pilot/air screw, etc).

I hope you will take our advise as a learning opportunity. There are a lot of extremely blaster specific experts on this forum. They are right 99% of the time.

 

[joeak47]

Next on the list... leak down test. Seriously

 

[Blaaster]

The very first thing to do is to do a leak test and work onward from there.

 

[brianblasts]

All understood and appreciated guys. I will be tearing into it again this weekend.

"Float height" does anyone know what its supposed to be?

Mentioned above about the big bore exhaust set up.... Could i be doing all this for nothing because i might have an exhaust that is for the big bore set up?

 

[nick20555]

All understood and appreciated guys. I will be tearing into it again this weekend.

"Float height" does anyone know what its supposed to be?

Mentioned above about the big bore exhaust set up.... Could i be doing all this for nothing because i might have an exhaust that is for the big bore set up?

Can't remember what carb you said you are running and I don't feel like reading again lol so here is a link to adjusting the float height and it has a list of stock and common carb float heights
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/

I wouldn't think you would have problems running a high volume pipe on an .080 over bore but maybe you wouldn't be getting quite as much power as you could with another pipe on there. I was just reading about people putting the Vito's fat bastard pipe which is a high volume pipe on their stock cylinders with "okay" results. Try and post a pic of your pipe so maybe someone could identify it.

 

[brianblasts]

H

Can't remember what carb you said you are running and I don't feel like reading again lol so here is a link to adjusting the float height and it has a list of stock and common carb float heights
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/

I wouldn't think you would have problems running a high volume pipe on an .080 over bore but maybe you wouldn't be getting quite as much power as you could with another pipe on there. I was just reading about people putting the Vito's fat bastard pipe which is a high volume pipe on their stock cylinders with "okay" results. Try and post a pic of your pipe so maybe someone could identify it.

These are the only two pics i have on my phone right now

 

[brianblasts]

And this one.

 

[jus_me]

I see you are mixing your own fuel, is the oil injection system disconnected and the nipple on the carb where the oil injection used to go is capped off ? As far as if it a large volume pipe or the other it will run fine but you just wont get the most out of that combo that's all. You can order pilot jets or main jets off E bay or jets r us or I have some if you need. Stock pilot that is/should be in there should suit your needs fine.

 

[Larry's Shee]

first thing you gotta do is put another filter on there, the extra air from removing it altered the AFR and is frying your piston with every stroke

use OEM or Cometic gaskets only (base and head)

hi-temp copper or yamabond on both sides of intake gasket.

use the proper torque specs for every nut/bolt
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/bolt-and-torque-specs.46155/

leakdown test before ever starting it....
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/build-and-use-a-leakdown-tester.10663/
or I have them if you need.

Good for you man. 2 strokes are a different animal. have you done a leakdown test yet?

start looking for air leaks. Did you do a leak down test?

Yep has to be tested

leak test
high idles are either improper carb setting's or airleak's.....

No mention of leakdown test before initial start-up.
Just because it has new gaskets or whatever, doesn't mean it's leak free.

While carb is off it would also be a good time to perform a leakdown test like foks have mentioned numerous times. There is no way you will ever get the carb jetted correctly if you have an air leak. I can almost guarantee that you are not leak free. They really like to leak either where the reed box meets the cyl or where the carb boot meets the reeds.

pilot jet is here.. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...647&thid=JN.GFIbsSzYBaQFri3As5DDgg&ajaxhist=0

And just so we can clear up and get off the topic of air leaks (if done right), what process did you use to verify you are "leak free"? Because firing it up and checking for leaks is not leak free. With 2 stroke motors, you have to ensure that everything is air tight by remove the carb and exhaust, plugging the exhaust port, and pressurizing the motor with a leak tester and see if it holds pressure. Any other kind of test will not truly tell you that your motor is leak free. So did you do a proper leak test as described or did you just check for leaks?

This is what I use: http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-94190.html
Actually for Chevies and Supras Drawback is you either have to remove the tank to get it it plug hole, or I drilled a hole in the PVC cap I use for carb boot and "glued" the adapter in with 3bond.
With a spacer you have one more place for an air leak, which the carb boot and reed cage can get warped from improper torquing.

Until you confirm that you have done a PROPER/CORRECT leakdown test

As to the pilot jet, the stock one works in 99.99% of those using a stock carb. I'm the only one that I know of using a pilot from a Vito's "kit". It is a Mikuni, I just never looked at it for size, when I put the kit in 4+yrs ago.

If you think that it may have an air leak, then test it before you ride it again.
An engine must be leak free to be able to select the correct jets, you will just be chasing your tail if the engine is leaky.

We are not trying to dog on you about things. We are here to help you. We understand that you are new to these 2 strokes and that cars a completely different.

leak test (the right way). It sounds pointless and stupid and can be a pain in the ass but it is absolutely essential to keep from blowing your motor and also to get jetting spot on

(can't jet without leak proof, ).

Next on the list... leak down test. Seriously

The very first thing to do is to do a leak test and work onward from there.

Coming into epic proportions on mention of leak test

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=2+stroke+leak+down+test 386,000 results. In case we are wrong, forgot something, or if you doubt the need.

Just as you didn't build an 800hp ls your first time, you built on knowledge you gained along the way from various sources. Working on the Blaster is no different.




My prediction is for a post or thread about a runaway engine.

Carnage pics of engine or shorts is mandatory.


As to the Vito's jet kit, that's what I used when I got the Fat Bastard. All Mikuni jets (at least they were 4+ yrs ago).

 

[Larry's Shee]

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=2+stroke+runaway+engine

 

[brianblasts]

i mentioned this coming weekend ... Proper leak down test lol more then the one i already did(plugged holes, shot some air in there and looked for bubbles from soapy water) i will throw my gauge on there and get some readings. Less then one psi per minute right ? We had the quad running quite a few times. Its not racing.... Its inconsistent. Its not high idle ....its both. If its leaking i will find out And update. It drives, it starts on first kick.. Runs good. Its just not consistent and lacks power etc.

 

[jbuckster07]

i mentioned this coming weekend ... Proper leak down test lol more then the one i already did(plugged holes, shot some air in there and looked for bubbles from soapy water) i will throw my gauge on there and get some readings. Less then one psi per minute right ? We had the quad running quite a few times. Its not racing.... Its inconsistent. Its not high idle ....its both. If its leaking i will find out And update. It drives, it starts on first kick.. Runs good. Its just not consistent and lacks power etc.

I would be looking for it to hold 7 psi for 10 min! 1 psi/min is a decent leak!!

 

[Blaaster]

I would class a 1psi a minute drop in pressure as an air leak that should be fixed!

 

[Larry's Shee]

Next time you do the test flex the carb boot. Also think of a way of heating the engine to test. Might be something that leaks only/more when heated.

The key is that it HOLDS the pressure, not rate it leaks out.