Blaster wont run
- Thread starter BrianHemphill
- Start date
do not loosen, just retorque.
if they've loosened any from gasket expansion/contraction, it'll set them back to spec
Ok what does this sound like.... Start up my quad , warm it up , start riding , 10-15 mins after riding a noise starts i think behind the stator cover( sound like a little bolt that loose in there spinning around) , then bike doesn't want to idle or run and then dies and wont start???
not sure if this was mention or not i tried to read the whole thread..Did you see any metal shavings when you took top end off? im asking cuz your main bearings in crank maybe starting to go making your crank not spinning freeley enough. the crank need to spin free or the motor will not power it.I had it happen to my yz250 it still ran but it ran like crap...just at though
do yourself a favor and take the cylinder and head off if you keep running it like this its going to cost you more money.There could be metal shaving ,dirt,who knows, at least clean it if nothing at all..lube it up good with 2 stroke oil.If your going to reassemble
It has been known that a stator bolt to break free an rub the flywheel creating a noise.
It would pay to remove the flywheel and inspect.
Do you know what detonation sounds like, very similar to the above.
I may pay to remove the pipe and look up the exhaust port for piston damage.
When was the lat time the engine was leak tested, it should be done twice a season.
It would pay to remove the flywheel and inspect.
Do you know what detonation sounds like, very similar to the above.
I may pay to remove the pipe and look up the exhaust port for piston damage.
When was the lat time the engine was leak tested, it should be done twice a season.
Detonation (pre-ignition) is when the fuel ignites earlier than it should Would kind of sound like loose marbles in engine (pinging). Caused by poor quality fuel, air leaks, excessivly lean jetting, carbon or hot spots in combustion chamber, ignition timing advanced to far (or bad key)
I would suggest more/closer investigation than just ripping jug off.
As Blaaster said, pull pipe and look.
Remove stator cover and spark plug and kick/roll engine over listening for the noise.
With proper puller, remove flywheel and look. Grab end of crank and see if it wiggles.
I would suggest more/closer investigation than just ripping jug off.
As Blaaster said, pull pipe and look.
Remove stator cover and spark plug and kick/roll engine over listening for the noise.
With proper puller, remove flywheel and look. Grab end of crank and see if it wiggles.
I am going to start that process now but how do i know if the timing is off?
the flywheel woodruf key will be broken or missing and the flywheel will have moved off the timimg mark of the keyway groove
I'm going to split my case I'm pretty sure my crank bearing is bad. What special tools will I be needing. Thanks
None haha took it to a mechanic and right off the bat said it was to loud (piston slap) when I started it. What test can you do?
Did you ask him how many Blaster engines he had diagnosed, Blasters are notoriously noisy.
There is no need to split cases to fix piston slap.
Bottom end test.
There is no need to split cases to fix piston slap.
Bottom end test.
Was the mechanics name Ben D over? Just looking for work I think 
Tests " D, E, F" can be performed with jug off.
D with feeler gage, E would take dial indicator (up& down play)(if you can feel it, it's too much) F by hand, less than 1/32 inch.
Tests " D, E, F" can be performed with jug off.
D with feeler gage, E would take dial indicator (up& down play)(if you can feel it, it's too much) F by hand, less than 1/32 inch.
