Blaster dynoed

That chart is with a 158 main jet. I had a 162 in it previous to the dyno run. He ran it and told me to change it to a 158 and he ran it a few more times. He suggested that I bump it back up to a 160 after I took it back home. I'm also running +4 degrees of timing. I don't know if thats a factor or not.
The likelyhood of me bringing it for another dyno tune is slim to none. Unless I have to bring the banshee down for a tune after some mods then I'll do it. The dyno is over a 2 hour drive one way.
The blaster runs great for a back up and my gf's ride. We took them out last sunday trail riding up north. We did 85 miles in 6 hours. She even flipped it on its side. No damage and no issues with it.
 
Next time I pull the blaster out of the corner I'll check the pilot and needle on it. I know its about 4 or 5 sizes richer then what Ken had recommended. Its also on the richest clip position. When I first got the motor back and on my first trip the piston had cold seized a few times. A piston later and going richer on the needle cured this problem and my plugs looked great.
I shot dyno guy an email with some questions.
 
On another note. I've been dating this chick for a year now and we haven't been out riding together kid free until last Sunday. She used to ride a Raptor 660 at Glamis and all over down in AZ but this was 6-7 years ago. She's been going on and on about how great a raptor is and blah blah blah. I tell her they suck! They are tall and narrow and have way to much power for a girl. So since she hasn't bought another 660 for herself I tell her she can ride the Blaster. She was a bit apprehensive because of the kick start thing. However I can start both the banshee and blaster sitting down. Always starts on the first kick for me. It took her a while to get comfortable on it. We rode into a small town, filled up and stopped a saloon and had some drinks and lunch. On the way back she started getting too comfortable already. She was trying to keep up to me. I went through a large puddle and she couldn't see where she was going. She caught a rut and flipped the bike sideways and it landed right on top of her. My bike dies just a couple hundred feet down the trail and around corners. I don't hear anything. I yell "Lisa" She responses "yeah". "you alright?", "no". I start running on foot and here is the bike pretty much right on top of her. I flipped it off of her like it was a fly. She didn't break anything and got back on it and rode it another 40 miles out of the woods. Now she loves the blaster because it didn't break any bones or kill her. She says I'm not allowed to borrow it out anymore. LOL!
 
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Hey Turbowrenchhead,
Your dyno graph had a few good hints on it.
Note the peak power is between 7000-8000 rpm? That is low for max power and will limit speed and will require overly tall gearing. Power needs go up exponentially with speed so the flat power is harmful to speed too. While it may feel powerful in lower gears, it will feel like you hit a wall at 7000 rpm in 6th because you are peaked. I agree with the others that I think pipe and carb mismatch is limiting you. Buy a better pipe and you will be happier with power increasing to 9000rpm. You will likely have to lower your gearing and yet increase your top speed with the 25% more rpm available.

All the parts have to match to get power.
Each part does not come with a certain hp number attached to it.
With the mismatch, jetting is very hard to get right, note the big "jut" at 7000 rpm.
That is a mixture stumble from bad resonances.

Power peak should be in the 8000 to 9000 range.
Power is made from "PLAN" or PxLxAxN
-Pressure in the cylinder, it has limits
-Length of stroke, part of displacement
-Area of the piston, the other part of displacement
-Number of power impulses, of which rpm factors in
Boost your power peak from 7000-7500 rpm to 9000 and power will go from 24hp to 31hp no other changes made.

Perfection is in the details. You have everything needed to make good power.
Fine tune it and reap the rewards.

I owned a 660 Raptor and gladly traded it for my Blaster.
More power, less weight, more fun.

Steve Best
 
Ok. So what are my options with me having to use a q series muffler?
What size carb? I put the 35 pwk on it power kens recommendation.
 
turbowrenchhead said:
Ok. So what are my options with me having to use a q series muffler?
What size carb? I put the 35 pwk on it power kens recommendation.
Click to expand...

That is a good carb and Ken's advice is sound.
You need a higher rpm pipe, fit your required muffler to it. Muffler makes little difference to a tuned 2-stroke unless it is very restrictive or plugged. The gains from the shorter tuned pipe and more rpm will more than make up for the quiet muffler. The DT200 was 32hp and exceedingly quiet.

318069_10151004864240803_461119997_n.jpg


Steve Best
 
any right hand pipe is a good choice, and where ever they can be found...

i believe trinity is the only one that still makes them. they are 360 or something iirc.

i got my first LRD from egay at a decent price, and sold it for DMC.

this blaster i just got came with the LRD so im lucky :D

but if you absolutely can not find a right bend, DMC has to be the best left bend imho. i havent ridden them all, but i already know
 
I cant say i have ever seen an SST pipe. its fmf, but thats just a stock photo, that might not even be the real pipe

wait for someone else to chime in about it though.

ct, trinity, dyno port, LRD and i think 2 more....
 
turbowrenchhead said:
How about this RH pipe? I might not have to modify it to fit my Q series muff with front pipe.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FMF-Racing-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d13447c54&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FMF-Racing-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d13447c54&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

The sst is a left bend, and few members here have tried them. I'm one of them don't let the generic fmf name fool you, that is a fantastic pipe. I used it on a ported motor with a rechambered head and I absolutely loved it.
 
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