Make sure they are bodied bolts, not threaded all the way up so they have a better fit through the saver.
Blaster Case Saver
- Thread starter 83jeepcj5
- Start date
Make sure they are bodied bolts, not threaded all the way up so they have a better fit through the saver.
i just bought bolts for temp. I havent found screws to order for production. have to research quantities and such and the lowest grade bolt i can buy for this project based on strengt. Proly guna be a grade 8 but i hope not that shiz is almost a dollar a bolt in bulk. the saver fits the case so well that it wouldt matter if the bolts had 1.5x bigger hole it locates off of the shape of the case. I looked thru MSC and Fastenal but i think neither are going to work. Gonna keep looking. I Can look at Chinese screws but i am against importing JUNK unless they have a good grade 8 thats proly equivalent to a grade5 here lol
Anyone Happen to know what the torque is on those case screws? I used to use merts manual but it got stolen along with my car.
Im going to Make plastic sleeves of the same material im going to mold the part out of and tighten them under the bolts and ride a few heat cycles n recheck the torque I should know if the material will squish or not work right away really. Glass filled nylon is some mean Sh!T so hopefully it will work out well.
That sounds like it would be a great idea not too mention a money making opurtunity. The fiberglass and nylon combo would be alot lighter than an aluminum couterpart not to mention also easier to produce. If you make enough just let me know sometime if you decide to make a few extra.
hh hey bro the crankcase bolts are 5.8FTlbs. not much i also use locktight blue that is!
No need for grade 8 bolts, the aluminum will strip long before a grade 5 will.
Metric bolts use a different system, grade 8 is about a 10.9.
This metric value is approximately the tensile ultimate or failure strength in megaPascals, or MPa.
5.8 is about equal in strength to a grade 2, cheap soft bolt.
8.8 is about equal in strength to a grade 5 bolt, automotive grade, all I ever buy.
9.8 is often seen, 10.9 is about grade 8 and 12.9 is darned hard!
All you would need is a Metric 8.8 bolt. Harder is sometimes not better.
And I do believe I'll buy one of those casesavers when you are ready.
Hey, you keep your bike like mine, well ridden and not polished!
The only thing polished on my Blaster is the head and exhaust port.
No picts of my muddy Blaster but here is the rider on a cold Spring day... (Blaster in the foreground)
Metric bolts use a different system, grade 8 is about a 10.9.
This metric value is approximately the tensile ultimate or failure strength in megaPascals, or MPa.
5.8 is about equal in strength to a grade 2, cheap soft bolt.
8.8 is about equal in strength to a grade 5 bolt, automotive grade, all I ever buy.
9.8 is often seen, 10.9 is about grade 8 and 12.9 is darned hard!
All you would need is a Metric 8.8 bolt. Harder is sometimes not better.
And I do believe I'll buy one of those casesavers when you are ready.
Hey, you keep your bike like mine, well ridden and not polished!
The only thing polished on my Blaster is the head and exhaust port.
No picts of my muddy Blaster but here is the rider on a cold Spring day... (Blaster in the foreground)
I ended up making a few minor changes and it works great. I have been real busy lately. Sry I'm slow
Its all good man. I know I cannot wait to get mine. I'm sure there are a few others that feel the same way.
That's how it feels. I have been so busy with work and rebuilding my blaster so I can ride that I haven't even found material to make the mold yet. I really want to produce this product but jus been busy. I promise it will get finished. The part is completely finished so its not really any crazy amount of work. Jus got to build a mold and find a good cheap supplier for the hardware. Sry to be so slow!
