A-ARM help
- Thread starter mmajay
- Start date
But there aren't any pinch style ball joints with adjustability which is why I went with the style design I did.
If someone has norman420 spindles (like I do) there isn't any reason to scrap it just to be rid of the pinch bolt.
I'm going to be beating the snot out of these arms to see where it fails at so I'll know.
I'm going to be beating the snot out of these arms to see where it fails at so I'll know.
None of my business but, I gotta agree that lower ball joint will snap....and over the bars u go
How are the lower ball joint mounts made on your race bike? A ball joint end with 16mm thread into a pipe with a nut on the backside? My mount just isn't a pipe, it's threaded.
Can you take a pic of the lower ball joint mount? I'm actually curious now.
Can you take a pic of the lower ball joint mount? I'm actually curious now.
I could change my jig and pull all but two threads or so back into the arm but I can't take the adjustability to the top end because of the pinch bolt design. I'm working with what yamaha designed.
civic the only way you would be able to make those pinch bolts adjustable is to put heim joints where it bolts to the frame, that would be the only way to get adjustment out of em.
on the bottom joint snyder uses a ball joint but it doesnt bolt all the way through and use a nut on the other side like the top arm, it is formed to the pipe and a bolt just hold it in the tube. u can see the bottom ball joint in the pic what im talking about.
on the bottom joint snyder uses a ball joint but it doesnt bolt all the way through and use a nut on the other side like the top arm, it is formed to the pipe and a bolt just hold it in the tube. u can see the bottom ball joint in the pic what im talking about.
That lower ball joint is how the suzuki LT250 upper works that LSR uses for their blaster upper arm joint.
I don't see that particular design as being any stronger than the threaded shaft style. Maybe the joint itself is stronger because of that big shoulder it can take more of a beating but I think the Ricky Stator joint is plenty strong for this application.
Revin-it and Kgibson, I can see what you're talking about having too many threads exposed on the lower. That's a simple jig change to get less threads exposed and a change I will probably make before making any sets to go out. Same angle and same pivot point on the ball joint but less threads hanging out there to take the stress.
I don't see that particular design as being any stronger than the threaded shaft style. Maybe the joint itself is stronger because of that big shoulder it can take more of a beating but I think the Ricky Stator joint is plenty strong for this application.
Revin-it and Kgibson, I can see what you're talking about having too many threads exposed on the lower. That's a simple jig change to get less threads exposed and a change I will probably make before making any sets to go out. Same angle and same pivot point on the ball joint but less threads hanging out there to take the stress.
I have a fundemental problem with heim joints on a non motorcross bike. People who race don't have a problem replacing suspension parts right regular use heim joints because they offer superior travel without bind but anyone who has had a ball joint with a torn boot knows, things don't last too long without anything between the joint and dirt.
For a non-motorcross quad I wouldn't want heim joints on it without absolutely needing them.
In all honestly, all of the camber change needed can be done with about 3 turns out on the threads. I don't think that gives up too much strength and it doesn't require a complete redesign, just a jig adjustment.
For a non-motorcross quad I wouldn't want heim joints on it without absolutely needing them.
In all honestly, all of the camber change needed can be done with about 3 turns out on the threads. I don't think that gives up too much strength and it doesn't require a complete redesign, just a jig adjustment.
Alright I got my set on the quad. Before I make any more I'm going to change the jig to incorporate the longer lower arms for less threads sticking out.
If it's painfully obvious, this set of arms wouldn't be for a professional level racer... more for a backyard rider looking to upgrade their blaster in the cheap. Anyway, on to the pictures!
If it's painfully obvious, this set of arms wouldn't be for a professional level racer... more for a backyard rider looking to upgrade their blaster in the cheap. Anyway, on to the pictures!
Well yeah, I figured it was obvious where I got my SN... I built the entire turbo system, chipped the computer, and tuned it myself.
one thing i have to say though is that it may not do ya too good in selling them. I know the price that you have is a very reasonable price, but so are asr arms. they are gunna be your hurdle if u plan on getting serious with selling these
I understand there isn't any wiggle room for price to come in under ASR's. The ASR's are a good deal but I'm not going into mass production on these. I was trying to help pay for the parts used on my quad and maybe save some blaster brothers a couple of bucks.
i know what you mean man, i got taters arms for now, prolly run em till the ball joints go and then weigh in my options
yours have to be the best looking fab'ed arms i have seen
yours have to be the best looking fab'ed arms i have seen
