94 Blaster won't stay running (video)

[CoryPro]

I'm having a huge issue with my Blaster at the moment. I'll try and give you as much info and based on that, maybe you could help diagnose the issue. There's loads of info to go off of so I will try to keep it as short as possible.

Two years ago I bought a 94 Blaster. I got a deal on it because the guy couldn't get it started. It ran fine the previous season but upon trying to start it after the winter it wouldn't run. After educating myself I found the culprit (Source Coil). After replacing this unit, it kicked over on it's first try and sounded just fine.


Fast forward to the first riding season. The Blaster ran fine until one day I was out in the back country and it completely bogged out and wouldn't start. I walked the bike back 3km, pulled the flywheel off and inspected the stator plate. A soldered joint on my source coil had broken off. Once I soldered it back together and made sure it was secure, the bike started on it's first kick.


Fast forward once more to August of last year. I was out riding with friends when the bike bogged out once more. Right aways I thought the culprit was the source coil since it had all the same hallmarks as last time. I pulled the flywheel off and nothing looked broken, damaged, or out of place. After putting the fhywheel back on, I noticed the wires froming from the stator were melted to the exhaust manifold. I pulled the wires off the manifold and separated them so the exposed metal wouldnt touch any other wire. I kicked it over and it started but ran poorly. I attempted to drive it hom but five minutes in, the bike bogged out. I tried kicking it over but didn't have any luck. I waited 2 minutes and kicked it over once more and voila, it started. Two more minutes into my ride, it died once again. This is the same pattern I've been stuck with for nearly a year.

Cold start - Bike will run for 5 minutes.
After 1st bog out - have to keep kicking over for 1 minute before it will start - Bike will run for 1 minute & bog out
After 2nd bog out - have to keep kicking over for 2 minutes before it will start - Bike will run for 30 seconds & bog out
After 3rd bog out, I usually don't even bother with it.

Here are all the current specs of my parts on the blaster:




Ignition Cylinder (original) MY SPECS BLASTER RECOMMENDED
Primary Resistance 1.22 1.44 - 1.76
Secondary Resistance 6.4 5.28 - 7.92



Ignition Cylinder (never used/new)
Primary Resistance 2.1 1.44 - 1.76
Secondary Resistance 6.4 5.28 - 7.92

Source Coil Resistance 254 192 - 288
Pickup Coil Resistance 23 16 - 24



Additional info you may want to know:

- The TORS has been removed before I purchased the blaster and it did run at 100% until the stator wires melted to the exhaust
- The wires on the stators were completely replaced.
- I have not touched the carb or any of its settings since this was all fine before the melted wires
- I've tried new gas
- I replaced the spark plug and the problem still persists
- I bought the blaster and it's TORS was already removed
- When I bought the blaster I also purchased duplicate parts on ebay (voltage regulator, cdi unit, and ignition coil)
- I've tried swapping out each part with an extra one I have on hand and still I get the same result.


I gone down everything on my list and am completely stuck. Ive even gone as far as making a video so you can see for yourself what I'm experiencing. Any info would be greatly appreciated

 

[Luni]

I watched your video. Its hard to tell much from it. I hear it die, and the type of dying it does is kind of like it bogs out. Usually when it bogs out, its due to a lean condition.

When its going through its period of throwing a tantrum and not starting, have you checked spark manually? Does it look ok? Do you have a digital multimeter? If you do, while its throwing its tantrum and not starting, connect the DMM to the orange coil wire feeding the coil and kick it over. See if youre getting 7-12 volts at that wire.

If youre getting voltage at the coil wire, try the same thing at the headlight feed wire when kicking it. If they both are recieving voltage, your issue doesnt appear to be electrical. Likewise, ohm out your stator, just for grins when its cold and you know it will start. Then get it to run and throw a tantrum, then ohm it back out and see if the numbers change at all. If they dont change, then thats not your issue.

Im inclined to think your issue is fuel despite it not being right after melting wires. But I dunno, its really hard to tell.

 

[CoryPro]

I watched your video. Its hard to tell much from it. I hear it die, and the type of dying it does is kind of like it bogs out. Usually when it bogs out, its due to a lean condition.

When its going through its period of throwing a tantrum and not starting, have you checked spark manually? Does it look ok? Do you have a digital multimeter? If you do, while its throwing its tantrum and not starting, connect the DMM to the orange coil wire feeding the coil and kick it over. See if youre getting 7-12 volts at that wire.

If youre getting voltage at the coil wire, try the same thing at the headlight feed wire when kicking it. If they both are recieving voltage, your issue doesnt appear to be electrical. Likewise, ohm out your stator, just for grins when its cold and you know it will start. Then get it to run and throw a tantrum, then ohm it back out and see if the numbers change at all. If they dont change, then thats not your issue.

Im inclined to think your issue is fuel despite it not being right after melting wires. But I dunno, its really hard to tell.

Well, that's a lot of stuff I can try. I can't say I ever thought of doing what you suggested. I'll try them out and report back with the results.

 

[scotj77]

I was ust watching and I don't know if it is the recording or what but it looks like your flywheel isn't turning right. like the woodruff key might be sheared. but it might just be the vid

 

[Zwiser]

yeah your fly wheel is the issue probably a sheared key like said before.

you can see it turning back wards

 

[Larry's Shee]

Besides cleaning carb and fuel petcock, check all hose on carb and fuel vent. Around here we have a little mud dauber wasp that lays eggs in small openings (with mud). I recently had one plug trans vent that caused the countershaft seal to literly blow out of case.

 

[CoryPro]

In regards to the flywheel not moving or it looking odd is an optical illusion. You may have seen it when watching a car drive by on your TV or a helicopter flying above. The flywheel is spinning at 1000+ rpms while the camera is recording at 30 fps. Each frame is capturing an image of where the flywheel was at that time. Depending on where the flywheel is at the time relative to the last frame it was in will either make it look like it was moving fast, slow, backwards, or not moving at all.

Example:

I also should have mentioned that I replaced the woodruff key a day before making that video

 

[Luni]

Yeah, the flywheel isnt the problem. If it was, it wouldnt automatically reset itself so it would start again. The flywheel appears to move backward as the engine accelerates and decelerates as he blips the throttle and changes position.

 

[CoryPro]

Luni,

I tried what you suggested and here are the results. When cold, the stator is putting out 255 ohm as opposed to 225 when it's warm. When the bike stalls out I pulled the plug and I am still getting a spark. Lastly, I tried getting a volt reading from the orange ignition coil and was in for a surprise when I got a reading. To be sure of what I got I had double checked I had the settings right by using a car battery as a control. First reading while warm I got was 2.5 - 3.8 volts. This was before it stalled out. When it stalled out it read 0. I thought VOILA, there's my answer! So then this got me thinking. If you said it should be 7-12 volts, why don't I use an ATV battery so I have a consistent/controlled power source. I ran a loop between the orange trigger on the cdi, through the battery, and into the ignition coil and kicked it over. The engine roared to life after having a hard time starting prior to using the battery as a power source. It didn't bog or sound like it did before so I thought my problem was solved. I let it run for a few minutes as I cleaned up my tools and started preparing the quad for a quick test run. As I was about to hop on the thing, it died out once more. I tried kicking it but she went back to her old ways and now I'm back to where I started. I forgot to look into the headlight feed like you had suggested so I will have to try that tomorrow.

Any new suggestions?

 

[Luni]

And you said you replaced the CDI already? What about the control box?

You need to test the headlight feed as well and see if that side of the stator is outputting. If it is, switch the stator outputs between cdi and headlight and see if it works. Mine had an intermittent short in it I couldnt figure out till I did this. Then for WHATEVER reason I took the damn stator out to OHM it out and it read perfect. Put it back together, it works great. I know its a short, but how can I find it if I cant reproduce it LOL.

Try that. Then report back. Your issue is definately electrical then. I guess the LEAN condition I hear on the video is a result of NO burn, so too much air. Makes sense. No spark.

Wait. Reread, edit.

How could you still be getting spark after it stalls if youre getting a 0 volt reading at the coil. Thats impossible. Did I read that wrong?