2001 Yamaha blaster won't start HELP PLEASE!!!

Well, at least you got it running. :cool:
We can tell you the what, why, and how of "tuning", buy we can't tell you exactly what you need over the interwebz :eek:
You have to do it by yourself.

I would start with the air screw @1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. When adjusting go no more than 1/8 turn at a time, 1/16 (a hair) would be better. Give the engine time to "adjust" to the new setting. Maybe even blip the throttle a couple times. Actually riding it would be better as rolling on the throttle with a load is a little different than free revving.
 
Putting in a bigger jet makes the AFR fuel richer.

If you switch from 50:1 to 32:1 you will possibly need one size bigger main jet, and repeating myself like a Parrot you need to confirm jetting with a plug chop!
I know I need to plug chop but I don't understand how the plug screws back in with no thread to even screw it In I read the forum that awk08 posted and I understand the whole idea of the plug chop but how do you put the plug back in??
 
Well, at least you got it running. :cool:
We can tell you the what, why, and how of "tuning", buy we can't tell you exactly what you need over the interwebz :eek:
You have to do it by yourself.

I would start with the air screw @1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. When adjusting go no more than 1/8 turn at a time, 1/16 (a hair) would be better. Give the engine time to "adjust" to the new setting. Maybe even blip the throttle a couple times. Actually riding it would be better as rolling on the throttle with a load is a little different than free revving.
Thanks for the advice! I'll try that out today
 
You dont put the plug back in you chop it to see if your jetting is correct then throw it away and put a new one in. A box of 10 BR8ES at napa is 19 dollars which is a lot cheaper than a rebuild.
 
You dont put the plug back in you chop it to see if your jetting is correct then throw it away and put a new one in. A box of 10 BR8ES at napa is 19 dollars which is a lot cheaper than a rebuild.
Ohhh okay! I'll do that first thing when I get home then thanks for letting me know! You guys have been great help!!!:D
 
Putting in a bigger jet makes the AFR fuel richer.

If you switch from 50:1 to 32:1 you will possibly need one size bigger main jet, and repeating myself like a Parrot you need to confirm jetting with a plug chop!
Okay so I plug chopped with a brand new plug and turning the kill switch off in 5-6th gear and this is how the plug came out... I know your just supposed to chop the threads but my grinder is too big so I just chopped the whole top off and popped the white part out of the threads.
 

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That plug looks way rich, did you do it the following way?

Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.


WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.


Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.

image.jpg
 
That plug looks way rich, did you do it the following way?

Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.


WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.


Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.

View attachment 22616
I did exactly as you described and that's how it came out. I switched the OR to 32:1 instead of 50:1 so I put a bigger jet which is 340. The next smallest jet is the stock jet which is 230 which blew my spark plug (I'm guessing from running lean) the next smallest after is the 220. I'll give the jets from smallest to largest that I have. 210,220,230,340,350,360. I put a 340 and according to the chop it's running to rich but to lean with the stock...:confused:
 
Jet kit are a problem, they put all the jets in there that hardly anybody uses, and seldom do the jets have the correct sizes.

Only buy genuine jets for the carb, you know then they are correct!

#300-#310 would seem a good starting point.

Get a range from #270- #310 that will cover you for changes in weather and elevation!
 
Jet kit are a problem, they put all the jets in there that hardly anybody uses, and seldom do the jets have the correct sizes.

Only buy genuine jets for the carb, you know then they are correct!

#300-#310 would seem a good starting point.

Get a range from #270- #310 that will cover you for changes in weather and elevation!
My weather is mostly humid and hot and I am 8ft above sea level so I don't know which size. Today I took the air box lid and it actually let power band kick in but still sputters and also bogs on take off