2001 Yamaha blaster won't start HELP PLEASE!!!

[Chrisdel2001]

I have a 2001 blaster that I bought with around 50 hours on it. I cleaned the carb before I used it and has ran great ever since. I put a k&n air filter, dynojet kit stage 1, and an find silencer. I was riding it a couple days ago and it started to bog on me I thought maybe it was running a little rich on oil so I kept riding trying to burn the excess out. As soon as I slowed down it turned off, I kicked it and it turned on but didn't idle I had to give gas to keep it running until it just gave up turning on period. I took the carb out, cleaned it, checked the float, the bowl screw, all the jets, etc. there is fuel going in and yes the fuel is good. The compression is at 130, I know blasters are supposed to be running 120-140 depending on the work done. There is no leak so the rings, gaskets, cylinder and piston are good. The reeds are fine they aren't cracked broken or bent. The spark plug has spark so the coil must be fine too. I can't think of any other issues that can be wrong. I've read on other forums that the kill switch goes bad sometimes but if the kill switch goes bad won't it automatically not allow for there to be spark?? Please help!!

 

[speedyslyder]

plug type?
you can disconnet key and kill switch to see if it is the issue.
clean grounds...could not be a strong enough spark under load
tors delete for your year...http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors.655/
spark at the right time/flywheel stator

 

[Chrisdel2001]

plug type?
you can disconnet key and kill switch to see if it is the issue.
clean grounds...could not be a strong enough spark under load
tors delete for your year...http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors.655/

Tors has been deleted already sorry I forgot to mention it. The spark type is ngk.

 

[Blaster8821]

I have a 2001 blaster that I bought with around 50 hours on it. I cleaned the carb before I used it and has ran great ever since. I put a k&n air filter, dynojet kit stage 1, and an find silencer. I was riding it a couple days ago and it started to bog on me I thought maybe it was running a little rich on oil so I kept riding trying to burn the excess out. As soon as I slowed down it turned off, I kicked it and it turned on but didn't idle I had to give gas to keep it running until it just gave up turning on period. I took the carb out, cleaned it, checked the float, the bowl screw, all the jets, etc. there is fuel going in and yes the fuel is good. The compression is at 130, I know blasters are supposed to be running 120-140 depending on the work done. There is no leak so the rings, gaskets, cylinder and piston are good. The reeds are fine they aren't cracked broken or bent. The spark plug has spark so the coil must be fine too. I can't think of any other issues that can be wrong. I've read on other forums that the kill switch goes bad sometimes but if the kill switch goes bad won't it automatically not allow for there to be spark?? Please help!!

I had issues a year ago with gas being bad right from the pump! Its all the ethanol in todays fuel that killed my blaster in minutes! try finding gas that's ethanol free.

 

[Chrisdel2001]

Yea the

I had issues a year ago with gas being bad right from the pump! Its all the ethanol in todays fuel that killed my blaster in minutes! try finding gas that's ethanol free.

gas that I use is ethanol free in very picky with that all my atvs are ethanol free since I got them

 

[Blaster8821]

What size is the main jet?

 

[Chrisdel2001]

T

What size is the main jet?

the main jet is a #220

 

[tbrooks]

There is no leak so the rings, gaskets, cylinder and piston are good

What do you mean by this ^^^? Have you leak tested? The jet kits are pretty much useless, have you plug chopped to confirm your jetting? Just because you have spark, doesn't mean its coming at the right time

 

[Chrisdel2001]

What do you mean by this ^^^? Have you leak tested? The jet kits are pretty much useless, have you plug chopped to confirm your jetting? Just because you have spark, doesn't mean its coming at the right time

Yes I leak tested it and oh I didn't know that sorry, can you explain how to check the spark plug is firing at the right time please?

 

[Blaster8821]

T

the main jet is a #220

First I would do a leak test like tbrooks has mentioned. I would also go back to the stock jet. Should be a 230 main.

 

[Chrisdel2001]

Yea the main jet is 230 stock so I put a 240 and it was running rich so I just put the 220. I had already done the leak test that he had mentioned.

 

[tbrooks]

I put a k&n air filter, dynojet kit stage 1, and an find silencer.

Do you mean FMF silencer? Is the expansion pipe still stock? Premixing or oil injection? Elevation and temps? Should be higher than 230.

 

[Blaster8821]

Yea the main jet is 230 stock so I put a 240 and it was running rich so I just put the 220. I had already done the leak test that he had mentioned.

when my engine was stock, I was running a 230 main with v force 4 reeds, k and n and full exhaust. ran the best that way. try a new spark plug if you haven't already. I have had a plug go bad before. I cant imagine the timing getting messed up.

 

[Chrisdel2001]

Do you mean FMF silencer? Is the expansion pipe still stock? Premixing or oil injection? Elevation and temps? Should be higher than 230.

I'm sorry yes I meant fmf silencer it was a typo. The expansion is stock. I premix the oil 50:1. By elevation do you mean based on where I live? And the temps I can't tell you because I haven't checked. The main jet should be higher than 230 is what your saying?

 

[Chrisdel2001]

when my engine was stock, I was running a 230 main with v force 4 reeds, k and n and full exhaust. ran the best that way. try a new spark plug if you haven't already. I have had a plug go bad before. I cant imagine the timing getting messed up.

Tomorrow I am for sure getting a new spark plug and I can't see how the timing has gone bad either. The reeds I'm going to change when the stocks go bad so hopefully that's soon

 

[speedyslyder]

I'm sorry yes I meant fmf silencer it was a typo. The expansion is stock. I premix the oil 50:1. By elevation do you mean based on where I live? And the temps I can't tell you because I haven't checked. The main jet should be higher than 230 is what your saying?

50:1 is chainsaw territory
most of us mix at 32:1 which is 4oz per gallon
you should be abe to see through pilot jet,in carb
If it was running then died......well ????
ngk b8es plug

 

[Chrisdel2001]

50:1 is chainsaw territory
most of us mix at 32:1 which is 4oz per gallon

Really? That must have been why It was running rich with the bigger main jet. When I first had deleted the oil injection I looked up what ratio for the blasters and they said 50:1. From now on I'll try out 32:1

 

[speedyslyder]

if you thinbk it is smoking too much
it could be a clutch side crank seal smoking tranny oil instead of 2 stroke oil lol

 

[Chrisdel2001]

if you thinbk it is smoking too much
it could be a clutch side crank seal smoking tranny oil instead of 2 stroke oil lol

Oh okay cool thank you for the info! What do you think can be stopping the bike from turning on?

 

[tbrooks]

when my engine was stock, I was running a 230 main with v force 4 reeds, k and n and full exhaust. ran the best that way. try a new spark plug if you haven't already. I have had a plug go bad before. I cant imagine the timing getting messed up.

I hope you are above sea level, they always run the best when lean. Timing can get messed up if the woodruff key gets sheared

I'm sorry yes I meant fmf silencer it was a typo. The expansion is stock. I premix the oil 50:1. By elevation do you mean based on where I live? And the temps I can't tell you because I haven't checked. The main jet should be higher than 230 is what your saying?

Yes, where you live, and the outdoor temps, both affect jetting