03+ carrier options
- Thread starter D-LASH
- Start date
Thanks guys, for the kind words and tips on the guards. Hopefully get to rejet tomorrow, and re check the float after watching a member's video, my carb was draining out of the overflow line. Not 100% of the time. I don't recall what scenario was better/worse. I did however get it to idle on its own for a bit. It seemed a little low(RPMs) but I was happy to hear it run on it's own.
you can always turn the idle up a little more.
i prefer my idle low so it idles when the engine is warm, but on cold it needs a little assistance. just a personal preference tho
i prefer my idle low so it idles when the engine is warm, but on cold it needs a little assistance. just a personal preference tho
Dealer was great. Got my jets, lug nut I was missing & the correct oil. Hers a side by side of what I put in initially. Also, guy helped me get the high performance oil because I'm pre mixing. Is that other oil a no-no? Thinking about draining the tank and putting only this yamalube in. Think I'll be alright if I don't?
(Edit) No more over flow problem, 300 jet in & tweaked the float just barely where the plunger hangs. But I still can't get her to idle on her own. It actually idled for a few minutes last night which made me hopeful, but now I think it's time for a trip across the street to the pros and get this beast right.
(Edit) No more over flow problem, 300 jet in & tweaked the float just barely where the plunger hangs. But I still can't get her to idle on her own. It actually idled for a few minutes last night which made me hopeful, but now I think it's time for a trip across the street to the pros and get this beast right.
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Ahhh crap. Was hoping it wasn't. Copy that! Draining weed whacker garbage ASAP. I really need to get with my neighbor and figure out how to get this thing running right. Figured out my "ON" stem of the gas line is clogged too. It will only run fuel through the "RES". Oh well...
I do have a question regarding the plunger on the float. The only time I had it idling "good" (on its own), it was dumping fuel out the overflow. After doing somee searching, I cleaned the plunger seat and was wondering if my plunger is moving correctly. I made a quick video to show the movement. Does it seem right? Should there be contact sooner/later, I'm not experienced with this stuff at all. Any help/guidance would be appreciated. (Hope the vid link works)
I do have a question regarding the plunger on the float. The only time I had it idling "good" (on its own), it was dumping fuel out the overflow. After doing somee searching, I cleaned the plunger seat and was wondering if my plunger is moving correctly. I made a quick video to show the movement. Does it seem right? Should there be contact sooner/later, I'm not experienced with this stuff at all. Any help/guidance would be appreciated. (Hope the vid link works)
That needle seems to be doing its job well, it is designed to dampen vibrations from riding on rough terrain.
My concern is that if it only runs well whilst flooding, you may have an air leak that is demanding more fuel!
As to the oil, it may have no relation to why it runs poorly, oils are oils.
The problem with the oil is that it is not suitable to lubricate correctly with the excessive variants of temperature produced by air cooled motorcycles.
The film strength to allow the oil to cling to very hot surfaces is just not good enough.
It will work well in temperature controlled 2strokes,(those with forced air cooling) but not well with non forced air systems, which vary excessively in temperature.
I hope my explanation is clearer than mud.
My concern is that if it only runs well whilst flooding, you may have an air leak that is demanding more fuel!
As to the oil, it may have no relation to why it runs poorly, oils are oils.
The problem with the oil is that it is not suitable to lubricate correctly with the excessive variants of temperature produced by air cooled motorcycles.
The film strength to allow the oil to cling to very hot surfaces is just not good enough.
It will work well in temperature controlled 2strokes,(those with forced air cooling) but not well with non forced air systems, which vary excessively in temperature.
I hope my explanation is clearer than mud.
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Replace the needle and seat. They do wear out. Adjust the float level properly. "tweaked the float just barely where the plunger hangs" doesn't sound like you did any kind of measuring.
On any "new to you" 2 stroke, a leakdown test is the most important thing you should do before you ride it.
Clean the petcock screen or replace the petcock. A plugged petcock screen is another good way to burn down the motor.
On any "new to you" 2 stroke, a leakdown test is the most important thing you should do before you ride it.
Clean the petcock screen or replace the petcock. A plugged petcock screen is another good way to burn down the motor.
have you followed the airscrew/pilot adjustment thread in the carb section ?
besides the float height being correct, the airscrew adjustment and correct pilot are the keys to a properly idling engine.
if you fool with the float height, all jetting ranges above (pilot, needle and main)
must be rechecked/reset for the new fuel level in the bowl.
you must start at the bottom and work up, as all lower settings effect those above it, including the fuel level in the bowl
besides the float height being correct, the airscrew adjustment and correct pilot are the keys to a properly idling engine.
if you fool with the float height, all jetting ranges above (pilot, needle and main)
must be rechecked/reset for the new fuel level in the bowl.
you must start at the bottom and work up, as all lower settings effect those above it, including the fuel level in the bowl
Leak has not come back. Still will only idle when 1/2 choked. With choke off, I keep very little throttle to try n adjust the air screw, but no change. If I let off the gas it will turn off. Other clue, was after starting using the choke, I turn the choke off & sometimes it will idle up 1st, then all the way down & off. I'm beginning to question my carb set up in regards to the oil inj by pass as the possible air leak source, just not sure. The inlet is blocked off with a toothpick with shrink tube. Think that's the source of my air leak? Or am I totally missing another adjustment screw? I've only adjusted the pilot air screw close to the air inlet side.
sounds like you have the oil injection blocked of ok ?
is the shrink tube pinched off at the end tightly ?
a small 1/8" vaccuum cap works best, available at any auto parts store.
there is only 3 adjustments on a blaster carb....
float height, which must be correct @ 20-21.5 mm
the airscrew, which should produce high idle between .5 and 2 turns out
the idle screw, on top of tors box, or midway on carb if tors delete was done with a kit.
try turning the idle screw up until it will idle on it's own,
pull and reclean the pilot jet, one very small piece of debri can clog it instantly
and recheck that float height
is the shrink tube pinched off at the end tightly ?
a small 1/8" vaccuum cap works best, available at any auto parts store.
there is only 3 adjustments on a blaster carb....
float height, which must be correct @ 20-21.5 mm
the airscrew, which should produce high idle between .5 and 2 turns out
the idle screw, on top of tors box, or midway on carb if tors delete was done with a kit.
try turning the idle screw up until it will idle on it's own,
pull and reclean the pilot jet, one very small piece of debri can clog it instantly
and recheck that float height
tors box still on ?
the idle screw is located by removing the seat, lifting the rubber flap if present, look in down under the fuel tank.
big slotted screw on top of tors box
That was it. Idled fine after adjusting... Jumped on, took her for a rest spin, idled fine after ride.... Happy, having fun, WOT, andddd she gets stuck wide open. Kill switch/key off, nothing except when choke is pulled open does it die. Alrightty, glad it was me and not my daughter, which I now decided: she is not riding it until this issue is resolved. I explained to her what to do JIC, but, I'll be searching around this site to figure out what's going on.
Also, took off the tank, found the broken fuel filter inside the tank, got it out and also discovered a K&N air filter which is now drying. But, I guess I'll need a new gas filter. The res filter was in ok shape, I just don't want that nasty broken part stirring around in the tank.
Also, took off the tank, found the broken fuel filter inside the tank, got it out and also discovered a K&N air filter which is now drying. But, I guess I'll need a new gas filter. The res filter was in ok shape, I just don't want that nasty broken part stirring around in the tank.
better get that carb off, fully disassembled and cleaned, no doubt chits in there too, especially with a broken screen.
Fuel filter ordered & I'll be sure to do another thorough cleaning. (3rd or 4th time, lol)
So, let me ask this also...
When the throttle stuck, the carb went cold at the top by the slide/cap, why would that be? Shooting cold air instead of fuel? Little air hiccup with no fuel for a second? Thought it was weird/scary/alarming and hope I don't need to replace the carb.
So, let me ask this also...
When the throttle stuck, the carb went cold at the top by the slide/cap, why would that be? Shooting cold air instead of fuel? Little air hiccup with no fuel for a second? Thought it was weird/scary/alarming and hope I don't need to replace the carb.
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