01 blaster trouble please help

nyreaper63

New Member
Feb 22, 2011
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I have an 01 blaster I bought it has no oil tank so I mix my self is it bad to do that or is there something on there the blocks it? It seized wen I was playing with it I took the air filter out and it seized I took the head out and my rings were fine.there was some metal shavings locked on the bottom of the piston I removed all of the shavings and it unseized. Was it seized or not? I put it back together and it won't start now! Wat do you think I should do? Please help me!! Any questions please ask thank you
 
Mixing your gas wont hurt a thing. Most guys prefer to remove The oil tank and pump Due to failure. Their junk. Metal shavings in the engine are never a good thing. As NeonNight said you need to do a comp test, check the flywheel key, and spark. The flywheel key couldnt cause the shavings so something else did. Is their scaring an or discoloration on the piston anywhere? Check your wrist pin bearing as well for discoloration and make sure its still in one piece.
 
Well wen I looked at the piston it's fine not discolored or deformed but where the rod connects to I think the flywheel or cam? There are two spacers and one is missing I think that's where the metal came from. The compression is good but I'll check it I got a brand new ignition coil and new spark plug but still didn't start. Where is the flywheel key and wrist pin bearings.
 
Well wen I looked at the piston it's fine not discolored or deformed but where the rod connects to I think the flywheel or cam? There are two spacers and one is missing I think that's where the metal came from. The compression is good but I'll check it I got a brand new ignition coil and new spark plug but still didn't start. Where is the flywheel key and wrist pin bearings.

Wrist pin is the pin that goes thru the top of the connecting rod where the piston attaches to it. There should be a needle bearing that goes between the wrist pin and piston. The spacers you're talking about are probable the ones on the crank shaft. 2 strokes don't have camshafts, it's the crankshaft. You'll need to split the engine cases to get the crank out to replace those
 
Ok I'll look at that. Wat is the flywheel key where is that. And isn't there a tool you need to get the crankshaft out with.
 
It's a small, half moon shaped sliver of metal between the left (sitting on the quad) tapered end of the crankshaft and the flywheel. The key actually only aligns the crankshaft and the flywheel while the taper actually holds the flywheel from spinning.

Take pictures of carnage... even though noone wants to see carnage on their quad, everyone loves to oogle at someone else's carnage.

If one of the thrust washers (the small bronze washer on the crankpin beside the big end of the connecting rod) is gone, the crank must be pulled out of the engine and replaced. Trying to run it like that will result in catastrophic failure because the thrust washer is what keeps the piston aligned inside the cylinder bore. The side forces on the piston without a thrust washer will tear the piston apart.

There are a hanful of tools needed to pull a blaster completely apart. Go to

ATV Parts, ATV Tires, Dirt Bike Parts & Motocross Gear | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

on the left side of the page is the search bar. Type in "crank puller" and the first listing is the Tusk crank puller/installer tool. Click on that. When that page loads there will be the tusk crank puller/installer tool AND on the right side of the page are the "other items of interest"; the case splitter, clutch holding tool, and a generic flywheel puller tool (you'll have to select the one for a blaster obviously). You will need all 4 items to disassemble and reassemble the bottom end of a blaster engine.

All together they will run about $150 but a dealership will charge you $85 labor/hour and it will take more than 2 hours for them to rebuild a blaster engine. Plus, when you are done with this engine those same tools can be used to disassemble a whole host of dirtbike, motorcycle, and ATV engines.
 
Ok thank you I was gonna bring my blaster to purcells and have them fix it for me but I'll try that.
 
if your asking questions like this you need a manual. there is one that's down loadable on this sight. blasters are not hard to brake down but you need to be alittle mechanically inclined. if the thrust washer is gone in your crank you will either need to have that crank rebuilt or buy another crank. you will not be able to replace the thrust washer in the crank yourself. its a pressed balanced unit. here is a pic of my crank that wasted a thrust washer. i found a good used crank for about 50 ish buxs. but you need to know how to check used ones for play.
BLAST008.jpg
Ok I'll look at that. Wat is the flywheel key where is that. And isn't there a tool you need to get the crankshaft out with.
 
ok do me a favor and just step away from the blaster... haha I:I. rule one when dealing with these motors is that if you find metal in your cylinder dont just shake it out and run it lol i mean seriously dude?? not trying to be a prick but c'mon man metal shavings seizing up ur motor = bad. it sure sounds like you need a crank, if you just stop now mabey you can get off easy and save a few bucks before everything gets wasted when the crank comes apart. :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
Don't take it to a shop to get it fixed, unless you have more money than sense. Most Blasters are not worth what it would cost to fix at a dealer or shop. No offense to anyone, mine was a hundred dollar wonder with duct tape on the clutch basket (fail).
Get a manual, if you know which end of a wrench to grab, you can do it yourself. I:I