project: were sorry

borednstreched

New Member
Nov 19, 2011
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coulmubs n.e.
i picked this blaster up off a trade in november and the motor caught detonation after the second ride. soooo a full tear down and build up is whats happening.
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so far the motor been removed and inspected, the frame has been fixed in back. brackets that arent needed have been cut off and shaved down.
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the tubular swingarm has been removed along with the durablue axle.

the front hubs have been replaced with with suzuki lt250s aluminum hubs and a set of aluminum front rims.
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the rear carrier was destroyed. so its been replaced by a suzuki lt250s aluminum carrier with a intergrated hydraulic brake.
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i had some old grate laying around so i made a set of heel guards.
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rear rims are douglas black labels with itp hole shots.
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i also modified the grab bar to hold a carry case.
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i ditched out the tubular swingarm to build my own heavy duty swingarm. i ran out of gas so i cant finish the shock mount just yet. but heres what i did.

i used 7/8 square tube to make a core for the swing arm so the inside isnt just hollow. the cores were welded into place. then i butted the two pieces of swing arm together over the cores and welded them. then i welded gusset plates on both sides/top/bottom of the butted sections.
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frame is finished and awaiting paint. the shock mount on the swingarm still needs finished.
i need a 60in brake line so i can run the rear hydro off my hydro hand lever instead of the foot pedal.
the rims, pipe, muffler, levers, axle have all been polished out.
its going to be fenderless. with a 03+ nose/tank cover, stock seat. projector headlight.

pics and more info on the motor soon.
 
just curious why do u want to run the hydro off a hand lever?

No foot wheelies? ... I'd guess it's easier than the fab work for the pedal & master cyl and the front master is available since there are no front brakes. I'm going to try running fronts & rear off the front master. Don't know if the front master has the volume to push 3 calipers. I'll find out.

Got some major mods goin on here I:I keep the pics coming.
 
thanks. i want to use hand lever because im more prone to use it, i dont have any front brakes on it currently and am on the fence about putting the hydros on(weight and fab). sometimes i forget about my foot brake too lol.

you should be able to run 3 brakes off the front. the way to do it would be to replace the t with a 4 way. then run a steel bendable brake line to the swingarm and a soft line from there to the caliper. this way if you get into the brake hard you wont have brake fade at the back due to the lines expanding or bulgding due to excess pressure.
 
I hardly, if ever use the back brake as my right knee is a bit arthritic.

It sounds like a great idea to brake both front and back from one lever.

The only problem I can see is that the fronts must come on first, and harder, otherwise the ass end is going to be uncontrollable.

The advantage of having 2 disks on the front and only one on the rear is that the front should brake better.

Solving the problem of getting the back brake to come on later, may be difficult.
 
love the heal guards when your out riding you can take them off and use them over to fire to cook burgers and dogs . Looking good I did not know lt250 parts where compatable good to know
 
I hardly, if ever use the back brake as my right knee is a bit arthritic.

It sounds like a great idea to brake both front and back from one lever.

The only problem I can see is that the fronts must come on first, and harder, otherwise the ass end is going to be uncontrollable.

The advantage of having 2 disks on the front and only one on the rear is that the front should brake better.

Solving the problem of getting the back brake to come on later, may be difficult.
yes what your talking about is ideal and absolutely achievable. and in 2 ways cheap and expensive

cheap
the fronts coming on harder and faster than the rears could be achieved by t'ing the 2 front lines togather into one. then youd need a 3 way with one inlet and 2 outlets, one for the front and one for the back. also using 1 long soft line instead of a hard line to the rear.
thus the fronts would engage harder and faster because they get even pressure first. the rear would take about a sec or 2 for pressure transfer and the line would flex. causing pressure to decrease slightly. it would be very fast and then youd be at full brakes again. minus the pressure decrease at full pedal/lever.

money
instead of using a 4 way to connect the lines you need a dual outlet/single inlet proportioning valve. fluid comes in and flows into 2 chambers with valves in them, then out into barbs. one line to the front one to the back. fully adj. flow rates front and back.
then you can set the fronts wide open and crack the back at half and it will brake like a car or utv.

does it make sense? its late, pretty sure i explained that right. i hope, correct me if im wrong.
 
frame, arms, steering all finished just waiting for the paint to cure slightly so i can clear. colors are black and red, running 2tone plastics. red on top, back on bottom for the hood and tank cover to the match seat. pics in the morning
 
quik tape off and spray, just to see what it looks like. before i have it powdercoated and maier plastics next winter. ill roll like this for this season to make sure i like it.
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finished the mount on the swingarm and threw some paint on it. im running a showa rearshock made for honda, the strut has 4 presets and the spring setup is a adjustable coilover with 2 1/2inchs of adjustment.

its a full roller again:) pics later today. just waitn on paypal so i can get my motor shipped.
 
motor is shipped, just waiting for it to show up. grabbed a maxima 2 stage filter, new carrier bearings, and some grade 8 hardware. pics in the morning. debating to run the stock intake/filter without fenders, make brackets to hold the filter up. or make a air box out of some lexan or plexiglass