So im in a bit of a pickle

i dont like jb weld simply cause its only gonna be temporary so id search for a new case. i dont have one but im sure u can find one on ebay or here.
 
I had the same thing happen too me. Some people will tell you jb weld will work and it will on areas where almost no constant stress is applied. The problem with this area is you are constantly stepping and pulling up on this area adding stress. Just go ahead and get a new case to solve all the head aches. I got that side case off ebay for 80 bucks.
 
Quick Steel will work better than JB weld, if you decide try to patch it.
 
Quick steel or jb weld will work as long as you clean it very good before applying it.It is still a temporary fix.The best thing is to grab a new set of matching cases,not just one side and replace them.What better time than to rebuild the motor while you have it apart.
 
My friend got stuck in the mud and shifted too hard we had to pull it back cause it leaked out all the oil!!! anyways i guess ill wait because theres only one set of cases on e bay and they are A Little Expensive
 
weld it..

aluminum rods from harbor freight and a butane or propanr torch. easy to use and super strong. Actually stronger then the original case...
Ive welded dozens of cases trans etc using these rods
easy to use to

clean it
heat it, tin it, brush it and weld it
 
i am pretty sure i have one laying around. i will check in the morning and let you know for sure. i know i have a right side for sure, but i will look for the left one.
 
I just did some digging on the product Harbor freight sells, alumiweld.

I see now, it's not truly a welding rod, it's a brazing rod. It advertises no flux, stronger than the parent metal, easy mending.

Aluminum welding repair rods, weld any aluminum metal by using a Propane Torch - Alumaweld

There is another product very similar which has video's on the website:

Aluminum Repair Video using our brazing rod HTS-2000 and a heat source, no welding machine needed!

Apparently there are people who curse this product vigorously, and then quite a few more people who like it. Obviously, this is more of an art than they show you. I think the trick to this product is the "tinning" you must do to get it to take. Most of the people who curse it vigorously say it wouldn't take to the base metal. Probably due to poor tinning technique. To me it looks like you'd spend more money on new stainless brushes than the cost of the rods. Once you foul up a brush you can't use it anymore.
 
I have been practicing with the alumiweld and when it's done properly the final result is hard to beat. I joined a piece of flat stock to the end of a bar then took a sledge hammer to test the weld. I ended up collapsing the bar in on all four sides and the weld held fast.

It won't work well if the parent material isnt atleast 730* and tinned very well (with alumiweld). when u buy it it has instructions.
 
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/case-repair-37072/

I took it to a spare set of cases tonight. It worked rather well but I got really tired of throwing the rod down and having to snatch up the wire brush real fast, only to need to throw down the brush to snatch the rod back up. It was like a game of cat and mouse, and I was the mouse every time. Always getting chased, never chasing.

I'm sure a lot of that feeling was just impatience and impractice. Once I get the hang of it better, it'll probably go a lot faster too.

To the OP, as YFS101 suggested, you can use the alumiweld brazing rods on the case. It's a strong bond (stronger I would say than putties and epoxies) and not as costly as Tig welding (unless you know someone who will do it for free). You will still have to split your cases, but it can be done at home with a fairly simple torch setup.

On a side note, if you don't have a oxy-fuel torch, one can be had fairly cheap. It won't last long but the setup cost is significantly lower than a true oxy-fuel torch outfit.

Amazon.com: Specialty Kits - oxygen/mapp gas brazing/welding/cutting torchkit [Set of 2]: Home Improvement

$68 on amazon for a Mapp oxy micro torch kit. The mapp will last a long time in that outfit, the oxygen will not. About 15 minutes of good strong heat and then the flame will begin to go (slowly at first and then quickly as the oxy pressure bleeds off) to a carburizing flame.

A new bottle of oxygen, however, is fairly cheap. I was buying them (way back when) at the hardware store for about $8.
 
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Harbor freight sells the wire brushes for $2 each in the isles with all the other wire brushes...

I agree people rush the jobs then biotch about the results... I have had great results..
I have a cheap brake lever that I cut in half, then welded back together. put it in the vice and smashed it with a hammer and it broke again about an inch away from the original weld.
I have used it to repair broken engine mounts, broken levers, cooling pipes, radiators even fabing custom one off parts.
there are several great videos on youtube that show how to used the rods properly and the results
 
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Harbor freight did not have any single stainless brushes like I would have liked to have seen. I was forced to buy a package with three brushes in it, one stainless, one brass, and one nylon for about $3. I only bought the one pack and about 1/3 of the way through what I was doing with the case, I needed a new wire brush already!

The rod, however, lasted fairly well. They start out 18" long and I used about 14" of it to build in a spot about the size of a sharpie marker around and braze up a crack about 3/4" long. Most of the rod I used wasn't even left on the case, it was left in the brush or on the floor as little aluminum oxide balls! If I had to guess, I only left about 4" of rod material on the case itself but considering the rods are about $2 a piece, that's not too shabby. For that same $1.75 in rod I estimate I would have used $6 in wire brushes had I had them available!
 
I've never actually used these aluminum rods myself, but I've seen my father use them to fix parts before and he just took his time followed the instructions and it turned out great. like YFS101 said, they are stronger than the base metal. One thing that I know helps is make sure both the pieces are good and hot before you start with the rod. good luck.
 
I agree thats why I prefer the propane, lower heat, slower warming up but a big flame that heats evenly.
I have a butane torch as well but its a lot harder to weld with