High idle, Help- TORS?!?!!
- Thread starter jones2014
- Start date
Has boyesen power reeds. Double stage i beleive. It has a big fiberglass reed with little reeds on top
Reeds dont affect the jetting.
things that do:
pipe
air filter
air box
air lid (on/off)
elevation
temp
pre-mixed gas
anything that affects how the engine breaths
things that do:
pipe
air filter
air box
air lid (on/off)
elevation
temp
pre-mixed gas
anything that affects how the engine breaths
With a #230 main jet and no other mods, the FMF should make the engine perform extremely well, problem is that it will be on the destructive side of lean.
A well known practice in racing circles is to jet as lean as possible until just before the power drops off. Running on the edge produces most power at the expense of shortening the life of an engine.
The main aim to a racer is to get to the podium and let the sponsor fill the bill for the machinery.
A well known practice in racing circles is to jet as lean as possible until just before the power drops off. Running on the edge produces most power at the expense of shortening the life of an engine.
The main aim to a racer is to get to the podium and let the sponsor fill the bill for the machinery.
Last edited:
Also when you say destructive, should i change ut? I ride 2-3 times a week, few hours a time, oh and filter is amsoil
You are looking at #280 - #290 main and plug chop to confirm, change it before you start it again.
You cannot just throw in jets at someone's recommendation, one must confirm as things are and will be different with every setup.
Wether they say to use the stoppers or not, it is good practice to use them to stop premature breakage and flapping about like Grannies undies in a strong wind.
You cannot just throw in jets at someone's recommendation, one must confirm as things are and will be different with every setup.
Wether they say to use the stoppers or not, it is good practice to use them to stop premature breakage and flapping about like Grannies undies in a strong wind.
Using the reed stoppers still, is there a special way they go? I just put them on like they were in package, not sure how i could mess that up???
I will send you $50 if you can put the stoppers on the wrong way and still get them to fit in the jug!
read this link below scroll down on pg
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boyesen-Pow...006-REED-/141256360060?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boyesen-Pow...006-REED-/141256360060?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
Last edited by a moderator:
Read it many times and do not agree, using the plate allows the base of the reeds to bend mainly at the fulcrum causing stress which can result in premature breakage.
That was my point in the post!
Using stoppers may inhibit the opening of the reed a little but they provide a soft fulcrum to allow gentle bending.
Reeds will last much longer with reed stopper in place.
That was my point in the post!
Using stoppers may inhibit the opening of the reed a little but they provide a soft fulcrum to allow gentle bending.
Reeds will last much longer with reed stopper in place.
Im using the stoppers and the little metal strip that came with the new reeds. Its in between reed and stoppers. Should i not?
Todos the strip and use stoppers only, do not forget to put a little Loctite on the little screws, you do not want them to back out.
Also do not over tighten them the reeds could weiner up.
Also do not over tighten them the reeds could weiner up.
Ok will do. Bed for the night. Will be back here sometime tomorrow. Thanks for all the help so far. Everything is GREATLY appreciated!!!!!
using the little strip and the stoppers is going to leave very few threads of the screw to catch the threads in the block, if one backs out and gets sucked in.......it's game over !
use the factory curved stoppers only.
throw the little strips out (they're a gimmick to sale you more reed petals when they break)
use loctite on the screws, do not overtighten them, allow the loctite to do it's job.
spread a thin coat of hi-temp copper rtv or yamabond on both sides of the gasket using a flux brush,
allow to cure overnight then leakdown test.
use the factory curved stoppers only.
throw the little strips out (they're a gimmick to sale you more reed petals when they break)
use loctite on the screws, do not overtighten them, allow the loctite to do it's job.
spread a thin coat of hi-temp copper rtv or yamabond on both sides of the gasket using a flux brush,
allow to cure overnight then leakdown test.
it is great to see that someone is on the same bus.
It is called experience.
You, I and a few others have the best seats.some may say you and I ride the short bus
