High idle, Help- TORS?!?!!

[jones2014]

I am new to atv's. Just bought a 03 blaster. was riding perfectly fine and then it stopped running. took apart carb and cleaned it, main jet is 230 pilot is 35, It turned out to be a broken reed. replaced with boyesen power reeds, put everything back together and may have stripped tors idle screw because idle climbs out of control when started and you have to kill it, I noticed that the tors throttle cable doesnt allow the carb slide to fully seat, maybe 1/2 inch from fully seated. Also keep turning idle screw counter clockwise and it does nothing. air screw alll the way in helps take it down for the most part but still to high and not right. Help please, I dont believe there are any air leaks



Full fmf pipe, boyesen power reeds.

 

[Fast6hand]

Did you mess with the thumb throttle adjustment?

 

[jones2014]

Did you mess with the thumb throttle adjustment?

no I havent messed with the thumb throttle, there is a little play before you feel it catch, but where the idle screw seems to hold the carb slide to high and its stripped that way, im thinking. When first started after the cleaning I had to give constant gas to keep from dying so i turned the idle screw and it just kept turning, when it was started again the idle shot up extremely high and the screw wouldnt adjust the idle anymore.

 

[98blaster]

Was it like this prior to taking carb apart? Sounds like cable is hanging somewhere or carb wasn't reassembled correctly

 

[jones2014]

Was it like this prior to taking carb apart? Sounds like cable is hanging somewhere or carb wasn't reassembled correctly

no it wasnt like this before, it ran fine, have taken the carb apart again and put it back togther to double check everything. it really seems like the tors wont let the slide seat, the little black piece inside wont let the cable loosen enough

 

[Awk08]

yep, that slide must be all the way down for a normal idle.
a tors delete cap/kit is your best and easiest option.

you can't just "believe" there are no airleaks, the intake is the main offender and must be leakdown tested everytime it is removed, to "prove" there are no airleaks

airscrew should be around 1.5 turns out for the stock 32.5 pilot, you may need that 35 at sea level, but i doubt it.
the airscrew adjustment linked below will tell you what pilot is needed, done only after the tors delete and a leakdown test.

tors removal:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors.58393/

tors delete kit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blaster-tor...Parts_Accessories&hash=item48328dd7a3&vxp=mtr

leakdown testers:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/build-and-use-a-leakdown-tester.10663/
or,
http://www.blasterforum.com/posts/685449/
how to:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-perform-a-leak-down-test.44653/

airscrew/pilot adjusting:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/

you should also check your float level while in the carb is off for the tors delete:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/

 

[jones2014]

Also forgot to mention that it is smoking like crazy compared to before, and im not sure if i mentioned that i have the air/fuel screw completly seated and that seems to calm the idle SLIGHLTY but i know i cant run it this way

 

[speedyslyder]

i did not read everything but did you put the slide in the correct way? it lines up whith a pin inside?

 

[Awk08]

Also forgot to mention that it is smoking like crazy compared to before, and im not sure if i mentioned that i have the air/fuel screw completly seated and that seems to calm the idle SLIGHLTY but i know i cant run it this way

saw the airscrew turned in mentioned above, thats why i posted links to setting it, and prolly the reason it's smoking, turned in completely has the air to that idle circut cut off and is now running on mostly fuel/oil mix

i did not read everything but did you put the slide in the correct way? it lines up whith a pin inside?

good question !

 

[jones2014]

saw the airscrew turned in mentioned above, thats why i posted links to setting it, and prolly the reason it's smoking, turned in completely has the air to that idle circut cut off and is now running on mostly fuel/oil mix




good question !

Yes the slide is in with the tab going in the slot that goes all the way down the slide. Pulling the choke out helps a little bit but still too high and if i un-seat the a\f screw the idle gets EXTREMELY high to the point it sounds like its going to explode. I use the kill switch within seconds because its soooo high

 

[speedyslyder]

i would like to believe you but maybe double check it everytime it does that its the carb or things mentioned above take the carb apart again and make sure allllll of the parts are there and installed correctly,and you have corret throttle cable slack maybe idle is stuck who knows..

 

[Blaaster]

There must be an air leak somewhere or the slide is not reaching the bottom of its travel, if it runs with the air screw turned fully in!

I would bet a penny to a pinch of doggie Doo that the reed cage is leaking since you replaced it.

Did you tension it to 5.8 ft lb , diagonally and incrementally, using a smear of Copper RTV on both the reed and carby surfaces.

 

[jones2014]

There must be an air leak somewhere or the slide is not reaching the bottom of its travel, if it runs with the air screw turned fully in!

I would bet a penny to a pinch of doggie Doo that the reed cage is leaking since you replaced it.

Did you tension it to 5.8 ft lb , diagonally and incrementally, using a smear of Copper RTV on both the reed and carby surfaces.

the slide doesnt fully reach the bottom of the carb, it is like the throttle cable is to tight to let it seat, it sits about a cm or 2 from the bottom of the carb, as for the reeds there is a TINY amount of light between the reed and cage but its soooo small i wouldnt think it would cause such a problem, Im really thinking its the tors idle screw stripped at too high of an idle because it isnt adjusting anymore either way. it just turns and turns with no change and the fact that it wont give enough slack for slide to seat even when the other throttle cable on the other side of tors is disconnected

 

[jones2014]

the slide doesnt fully reach the bottom of the carb, it is like the throttle cable is to tight to let it seat, it sits about a cm or 2 from the bottom of the carb, as for the reeds there is a TINY amount of light between the reed and cage but its soooo small i wouldnt think it would cause such a problem, Im really thinking its the tors idle screw stripped at too high of an idle because it isnt adjusting anymore either way. it just turns and turns with no change and the fact that it wont give enough slack for slide to seat even when the other throttle cable on the other side of tors is disconnected

Also I reused the old gasket on reed cage and carb, they were still in good condition

 

[dirtysquared]

the slide doesnt fully reach the bottom of the carb, it is like the throttle cable is to tight to let it seat, it sits about a cm or 2 from the bottom of the carb, as for the reeds there is a TINY amount of light between the reed and cage but its soooo small i wouldnt think it would cause such a problem, Im really thinking its the tors idle screw stripped at too high of an idle because it isnt adjusting anymore either way. it just turns and turns with no change and the fact that it wont give enough slack for slide to seat even when the other throttle cable on the other side of tors is disconnected

That sounds like an air leak. Is your oil injection blocked off? If so make sure that the oil injection nipple is blocked off on the carb.

When you say the slide isn't seating, are you looking in from the rear of the carb ad seeing it sitting slightly up?

When you press the thumb throttle is it hard to make it move the slide, or does it open fairly easy?

 

[speedyslyder]

yep lets put it this way..there is no way your engine is going to increase its idle if it dont got air and fuel sooooo it is getting to much air and or fuel ...peace

 

[Blaaster]

A little gap in the reed seating will be no problem, once the engine runs crankcase pressure will do the sealing.

The carb slide should go down almost to the bottom and let only a little air in.

The TORS unit mechanism must be stripped as you suspect, it would pay to invest in a TORS delete kit.

By the way there should be no gasket between the carb boot and the reed block, there is a seal built into the boot which usually needs RTV to make it seal, especially if the nuts have been tightened to much and warped the flange.

 

[motoman159]

And no one else mentioned that a 230 main jet is way to small for a fmf

 

[jones2014]

A little gap in the reed seating will be no problem, once the engine runs crankcase pressure will do the sealing.

The carb slide should go down almost to the bottom and let only a little air in.

The TORS unit mechanism must be stripped as you suspect, it would pay to invest in a TORS delete kit.

By the way there should be no gasket between the carb boot and the reed block, there is a seal built into the boot which usually needs RTV to make it seal, especially if the nuts have been tightened to much and warped the flange.

No gasket between carb boot and reed cage but there is between reed cage and engine. Will look into rtv. And i see what looks like grooves in carb where slide should settle but it doesnt make it down far enough. Throttle moves slide smoothly

 

[jones2014]

And no one else mentioned that a 230 main jet is way to small for a fmf

What is the recomended size. When i bought it it ran smoothly with it. It wasbt untill i had to replace reed that i had a problem. The guy "said" it was jetted. Its a fmf fatty gold series with power core 2 silencer