Another engine
- Thread starter OConnor Racing
- Start date
Just got back from riding with Duelstroke. Great ride and I left the wife home so we had a chance to really get the Blasters working. This engine has had the living crap beat out of it since i put it in. I tell everyone that rides it to try to blow it up and wind the dog out of it. Duelstroke had at it today and it still came back running great. When we got back to the shop, me and Ian pulled the top end off and had a look. The piston shows signs of normal wear and the cylinder looks fine. Nothing out of the ordinary. I'm probably done for the year so the long rod is going in next. The strange thing is after five tanks of gas (94) I have no carbon on the top of the piston or the cylinder head. I'll take some pictures tomorrow and post them. Not sure if it's the Super M oil or my relentless habit of holding the throttle wide open. I have to say I'm very happy with the outcome of this engine. I had a chance to really hold this thing wide open and get into some pretty high RPM's today and it's got nice power and keeps pulling hard. Like to thank Ian for the help today and all of his input and advice. Now where's my Ski-Doo!
Very interesting thread !! I understand (I think) reasoning for taking alum bridge out of intake but why the sleeve bridge?? Also, if a pipe is configured according to ex timing (according to Jennings) how do you measure pipe to reverse engineer to get best port timing? Also does the intake timeing on reed valve have anything to do with anything as opposed to effects on piston port?
The reason I decided to remove the intake bridge was for flow. The intake bridge was flat after what was left of the cylinder bridge was removed. The amount of material that was removed from the bridge is pretty close to what would have been removed from the intake with conventional porting. As far as the exhaust port timing goes, I called Mike at CPI and he gave me the figures he used to build the pipe. He wants his products to perform well as much as I do. I'm not really sure how to answer your third question without getting very long winded. Jennings explains it much better than I ever could.
Had a great time Ken as always!!!! The bud light blaster is a rocket ship and runs sweet.Best thing is ken tells me to try and blow it up,you know I love that challenge.bahahahhaha I was surprised myself when we took the cylinder off.Looked very clean and no carbon build up.Thanks again Ken for the great riding trip and of course the cherry stones and ribeyes(lots more food too)!!! You know you will see me soon enough.Ken also did some machining work for me on a few projects and as always did a fantastic job.Got my +4 cases back from him also so the dragger is getting closer.Ken is one stand up guy and a generally great guy to be around.One great friend in my book!!!! Thanks bro
Thanks Ken !! Good answers. First time I read Jennings reed valves were just being developed and were made of stainless, and the engine I was working on was piston port so I kind of skipped over that section. Been too many years and too many beers to remember if he said much about it . Guess I'll have to download it so I can find my answer. BTW, I am that old and bought a "green" Honda brand new!! Still have it too!!
So would this BBK be a viable option on an engine without a +4 stroker and long rod?
For someone who has a cylinder that is on it's last bore, would this be the next logical step even considering the difference in price to buy the new piston and sleeve?
What are you thinking as far as price for this setup? Is this priced moderately enough to be a price vs power competition for an la sleeve BBK? Or a one off test bed for your pleasure only?
For someone who has a cylinder that is on it's last bore, would this be the next logical step even considering the difference in price to buy the new piston and sleeve?
What are you thinking as far as price for this setup? Is this priced moderately enough to be a price vs power competition for an la sleeve BBK? Or a one off test bed for your pleasure only?
Still need to do a bunch more testing before I decide if I'm going to offer this. I can tell you this will not be for the bargain conscious buyer. The LA Sleeve kit is pretty hard to beat. This may be an option if they ever stop making them. I still think this design is going to be a high maintenance top end. Not a big deal for me but I don't think people are going to be willing to spend the loot and be told to change rings every (?) hours and pistons once or twice a year. Who knows. It may not be that bad when all is said and done. So far, I like what I see.
I've been pecking away at a few more mods for this engine. Here's a few pics of something I did to the carb. This is a Mikuni 34mm TM. This is a plate I built for the intake. Nothing new and nothing I invented. Never tried this on a Blaster but it worked great on one of Mike Duponts YZ 250's. The theory is to trick the carb into thinking it's smaller than it really is at ½ and less throttle. I think this may help the bottom end without sacrificing any top. If I don't like it, I can take it out.
I got this in the mail yesterday. I've been wanting one for a while. As soon as I tool it out of the box, Tarmo said “We can make that”! Not even worth the effort for what I paid for it. I got it on E-bay as a “make an offer”. $75 + shipping. ( Thanks Ian!) Very well built and very light. The Fernco they supplied fits the airbox nice but I don't like the way it fits the carb. I'll be making an adapter for a better fit.
This is a stock Blaster crank. One thing ( the only thing ) I don't like about the Wiseco +4 is the lack of stuffer blocks. I'm doing an experiment to see if I can fit my +4 with blocks. The crank was set-up in my mill and a flat surface was cut. I thought about the radius in the corners and decided not to remove them. I'll relieve the stuffer blocks on the back to clear the radius. I plan on using Delron as stuffer material and bolting it in from the inside. I'll fit the blocks with stainless steel bushings and use green locktite to keep the bolts from coming out. I don't think balance is going to be an issue but we'll find out. Surf and Turf Racing will probably end up balancing the crank.
sweet mod with the "scary fast plate" in the carb, been thinkin of tryin to fab one of them myself over the winter !!!!
as for the adapter boot needed, heres what i found and got, and since then ian has purchased 2 of them and we luv them, excellent clamps too, and come in blue also to match the budlight blaster..........2.5 x 2.25 i believe
Intake Pipe Reducer
and you're gonna luv the cfm box, way better flow, possibly even requiring a rejet ??
did it come with a filter ??? mine was used and had some fakey k&n in it, since then replaced with this uni.............
NOS Uni Air Filter Pod 2.5" ID x 6" UP-6245 Universal - eBay (item 120589193356 end time Dec-24-10 14:40:45 PST)
as for the adapter boot needed, heres what i found and got, and since then ian has purchased 2 of them and we luv them, excellent clamps too, and come in blue also to match the budlight blaster..........2.5 x 2.25 i believe
Intake Pipe Reducer
and you're gonna luv the cfm box, way better flow, possibly even requiring a rejet ??
did it come with a filter ??? mine was used and had some fakey k&n in it, since then replaced with this uni.............
NOS Uni Air Filter Pod 2.5" ID x 6" UP-6245 Universal - eBay (item 120589193356 end time Dec-24-10 14:40:45 PST)
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Thanks Awk. Much easier to change the boot. I didn't get a filter with the box but I'll be getting the K & N with an Outer-wears cover this morning. I'm thinking two sizes or more larger on the main jet. I'll be putting the long-rod in the crank this afternoon and assembling the bottom end. I may shoot a vid of the assembly.
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