Won't start after jetting and tors

Colman

New Member
Mar 12, 2015
9
0
1
30
Howdy new to the forum but not to motors, but I am stumped on this one. I lost spark one day riding my 05 blaster and was gonna do some mods so I thought since I'm doing the coil I'll do it all at once. New uni air filter (lid off the box), jetted the carb, and eliminated the tors system with the motion pro kit and already had fmf powercore. So last night I finished doing it all and put it all back on and together. First kick it tired and died out right away, 5 more kicks nothing at all. Pull the plug put it on the coil set to the side of the motor and it's getting spark fine (plug was also wet). Put it back in and the same thing first kick tries then 8 more and nothing. Late night so I ended it there but today I'll try some starting fluid. But I think the problem is the new coil is taller then the last and to put it on I have to push on the fatty to put it in then when I let go the fatty pushes back against it but it's still connected. Could it not be getting spark to the cylinder because of that? Thanks guys
 
Can you post a pic of what you mean? Others might know but I am a little confused.

Also are your reeds good? Is the idle crew adjusted so the slide isn't bottomed out.?

Also be very easy on the starting fluid.
 
Idle screw adjusted to what the jet kit specs said. Didn't check reeds but it was running fine because the coil went bad. After I try starting fluid I'll take a look at the reeds. Don't worry I won't blow it lol
 
Please walk out the back door and throw the starting fluid as far as you can :)
It contains no lubrication and has no use on a 2 stroke engine.

Jet kit ha ?
They never contain the correct jets or needle.
Replace all your stock carb parts besides the mains. Get genuine Mikuni 270 thru 300 main jets for your mods listed, start large and plug chop down.

You did the correct tors removal listed on here for an 03+ blaster by cutting and connecting the 2 wires as they exit the CSI/tors unit ????
Find the DIY in the electrical section for 03+ blasters and follow it !

Change the plug, they can foul instantly, and check your reeds as mentioned above.
 
I work on outboards, I'm not a jerry mechanic either. For 2 strokes you use 3-1 starting fluid that contains lubrication, and I used 300 main and was gonna do my testing after it started lol. And yes the tors is removed correctly.
 
A 300 main from a jet kit may not be a 300 main, kits have known to vary in size and not be reliable. Should be close enough to run though. ^^ like murph said, alot of the stators that start with an R are just plain junk brand new, there have only been a few positive experiences with them.
 
UPDATE: got her started last night and if I wasn't giving it gas it dies immediately. I need a tors expert because I believe that's what is giving me the problem. Since I removed it I have a idle screw installed but when I adjust it nothing happens i can take it out and screw it all the way in and nothing. Tried fooling with the cable screws to give it more and less slack but even when I no slack on the throttle at all it still wouldn't idle. Toward the end of keep adjusting it wouldn't start up again and the plug has some light brown but was perfectly fine.
 
I have done this myself so don't forget to lock the jam nut when you have your idle all set. I use a very small amount of blue locktite also.
 
Yeah I had that problem with the idle screw too. They say just file it flat, but you have to take off more for it to work
 
I wish they made a idle screw with a spring on it for easy adjusting.

they do............
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-Carb...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d529a2043&vxp=mtr

works infinately better than the jam nut style that comes loose and falls out


I use one like this with the bigger thumb nut my local dealer found for me, says it was suzuki ?
this is for TM's but would probably work on VM's ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MIKUNI-IDLE...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ae648776c&vxp=mtr
 
they do............
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-Carb...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d529a2043&vxp=mtr

works infinately better than the jam nut style that comes loose and falls out


I use one like this with the bigger thumb nut my local dealer found for me, says it was suzuki ?
this is for TM's but woyuld probably work on VM's ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MIKUNI-IDLE...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ae648776c&vxp=mtr
Thanks! Just placed order. I hate the jam nut style. You can never tighten and adjust properly. There's always a tool in the way.
 
Sounds like the tab/boss where the idle screw goes in wasn't filed down enough. The idle screw needs to go into the carb far enough to lift the slide. It also must be installed on the choke side.

" Is the idle crew adjusted so the slide isn't bottomed out.? "


Read more: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/wont-start-after-jetting-and-tors.61407/#ixzz3UGdcJA88

Made that mistake once :rolleyes:
It's on the right side but thanks I'll file it down more

By "right" side do you mean "correct side" or "right hand side" of carb?
 
Okay everyone thanks for all the help I believe I've got it fixed now but the past is back to haunt me, I put the stock jetting back in the remove a factor could feel the idle screw getting tighter and moving the side up. And what do you know it wouldn't start, just for sh*ts and giggles I pull the plug and check for spark, no spark. Bought a 13$ coil off eBay, but the wiring the guy did before me was really jig wiring. What do y'all think?