What could my problem be..

Yamahaman03

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Oct 2, 2015
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Okay i have a 2003 yamaha blaster and i put a fresh wisco pistion in and drove it and it just seized up i took it apart and it was catching. I put some 2 stroke oil in and it was doing fine changed everytbong and then i put it together it was hard as hell to kick over and it sounded awfull drove it around brought it back inside and seized again. What could be my problem?
 
Hell... I would just put another wiseco piston in it. If that one seizes up again, just put another wiseco piston in it. If THAT one does it again, just put another wiseco piston in it.

You say its a 2003? How much for your rear tail light? I'm looking for one. Complete with mounting bracket and all hardware. Part that sucker out!
 
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show us a pic of your pistons that went...
it could show some signs of why

my guess after 4 pistons,you have another issue that is not piston related.
when i personally have locked up a 2 stroke engine it was always a crank/not a piston.
 
The piston in it now is fine but he old one broke skirts il go take a pic today for you and hows a leakdown test gonna explain why my cranks catching in one spot
 
Definition of insanity: Replacing pistons over and over, without fixing anything else, and expecting them not to fail. A leaktest is a necessity anytime you are having problems, and anytime you do any work. Just taking the carb in and out can cause an airleak. Although your problem seems to be deeper than that, people like us would like to know if an airleak caused the problem, although it sounds more like neglect to me. What you need to do is measure your bore, get the next size piston, send both to a reputable builder so the jug can be bored to match the piston, split your cases, clean thouroughly, probably get a new crank or have yours rebuilt, reassemble with all new bearings, seals, gaskets, and then leaktest to ensure everything is sealed properly. Leaktest are so important because air-fuel ratio is critical on an air cooled 2-stroke. A properly maintained and built engine could last you a very long time, but it will take work, maintenance, and 2 leaktests a year!
 
How much for the tail light assembly? :)
Seriously... You can fix this! I know you can! Lots of good advice on here.

Now about that tail light...
 
Theres the pistion that lasted the longest
 

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First off that's NOT a wiseco piston! That is a CAST piston. There is nothing wrong with a cast piston what so ever. I see you even have crack across both piston pin bosses. SH$T... that pretty bad! I can see from the edge of the top of the piston that metal is being eaten away. My first thought is some EXTREME DETONATION going on. Caused my many things. First guess TOO LEAN! That piston doesn't look like it has much time on it at all. It also has those two huge vertical grooves between the ring lands. What did the piston rings look like? Need pictures of those too.What did this blaster sound like when it was running? Did it sound like a coffee can full of rocks? You have a huge air leak some where. This is why Blaaster said to do a LEAK DOWN TEST! The skirt broke off from a combination of loose fitting piston in the bore and a sh*t ton of DETONATION!. More the latter.

What we need from you...

#1 You obviously know how to post pictures, so get some more of the piston, cylinder, rod (I bet its blue in color now), etc . Top, bottom, side of piston.

#2 List EVERYTHING that has been done to this Blaster and the engine... especially the engine...
What pipe, carb, reeds, air filter, etc? Be honest.

#3 You can bring out your inner "Do it myself ability" and repair this thing once and CORRECTLY the first time
and have a LONG LASTING, DURABLE, FUN atv when your done, but only if you do your part. I don't want
hear that you don't have any scratch (money) to repair this engine. You obviously had money to put in
What now... 5 pistons??? :0 Get ready to do it right the FIRST time! We are here to help!

By the way, why did you say this piston and the others (need pictures of those ones too) were wiseco's?
Just curious.

Now about that tail light assembly...
 
I have a complete Wiseco piston, cylinder, and head assembly all properly fitted, and honed read to go for a good price when you get that far. I'm a cast piston guy, and have had these items in a box for a couple of years doing nothing. Porting and head re-chamber will be extra if your looking for more power.

Now get busy asking questions and taking notes!
 
Thats not the pistion thats in it now that was a numura sh*t iet it warm up for id say 10 mins before rideing i only had one ride tho and i got it appart now engine is out and il say all the gaksets are done on bottom end it has a carb spacer stock reeds and full dg air box cover off but the plug looked fine ot was brown but il post some picks im spliting it and you said you had some parts and i dont have the tail light assembly i got the wires but no taol light you said you had all thay stuff how much where you looking to get for it and im gonna need some help putting it together ive only taen apart a warrior this is different and the jug was brand new it cane with the pistion and all gaskets im gonna build the engine my self
 
Few pcs
 

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First off, Namura piston work just fine, even in ported engines with high compression. its NOT the piston. You have other problems. Do you know what size your main jet is right now?
 
I had the exhaust side skirt break off of the exhaust side of my piston, it was a standard sized cast piston with ART on the inside, supposed to be a pro-x. In my case the cylinder was way to worn, but it looks like they honed it and threw a piston in anyway.
I got about 15 or so hours on it before, upgrading my pipe, first time I tached it out hard then grabbed the next gear, smack that piston couldn't take it, the only thing that saved me from beating it all to hell is a piece of cast flew up into the spark plug and fouled it out. It probably the only thing that saved it the motor had all but quit and made one crunchy sounding rotation and the got locked by cast aluminum between the rod and the case , guarenteed if it would have been at WOT spinning 7 or 8k rpm it would have busted a hole in the case.

So I split the cases and cleaned them out I couldn't believe how much aluminum grit was in the crankcase from just one piston skirt.
Even after splitting the cases removing the seals ,using kerosene, carb cleaner,compressed air, brake kleen,wd-40, a pick, etc. I still couldn't get all the grit out of the main bearings and had to replace them. I hated to replace them as they were same as new, as was the wiseco crank set.

Anyhow if the cases aren't split and cleaned out properly the best you can hope for is that you were able to get enough out to keep from destroying the next piston, but even then you got 2 to 10 hours before you loose a bearing to the shavings that are definitely going to be left in them.

Get the service manual, watch some Ken O' Conner vids on teardown and building, then find a table in you garage clear it off put down a white to well or two. Order a clutch /flywheel holding tool, and a flywheel puller.
And get that motor stripped down, out of the frame and split in two.

When you get It going again, it will be with a different sort of pride.
 
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sooo you bought a cylinder/piston kit off e-bay?
was it like 90 bucks?
you should get a real oem nut for that,clutch bracket case, slash cylinder stud too:)