Weirdest Electrical Problem Ever! Ideas?

[Adaptel]

Hello All,
I'm brand new here, and this is my first post. I searched like madman, and cannot seem to find anyone who has reported a problem similar to mine in regards to my 88 Blaster.

I picked this nice little blaster up for next to nothing in non-running state and figured it wouldn't be too hard to get running again. The main issue was no spark, and tearing into the generator case revealed a pretty rusty mess. Long story short, I replaced both power and trigger coils in the stator and was then getting an intermittant spark...but no joy. I then replaced the spark plug coil and the CDI box....and am now getting a consistant spark.

Even though I was getting a consistant spark, I could not get the motor to start or even sputter. Every once in a while, I would get a "kick-back" if I had a lot of starting fluid sprayed into the motor. I finally decided to put a automotive timing light on the ignition wire, to see if the spark was happening at the correct time....and what I found out is really strange!

I put a paint mark on the flywheel and the crankcase which corresponded to the piston's top dead center. If I designated this point as 0 degrees, and bottom dead center as 180 degrees.....my spark is occuring at 90 and 270 degrees!! I suspect my problem lies with the trigger or pulser coil, but any feedback would be appreciated.

I purchased both stator coils from a website mfgsupply.com, and the pulser coil looked like others i have seen in pictures, but it did not fit between the two metal posts in the stator without some trimming of the plastic case....which now is making me think it might not be the right one. My questions to the experts out there are:

• Is this stator/ignition design supposed to fire every twice per revolution (around 0 degrees and 180 degrees) similar to an automotive "wasted spark" setup? Or is the fact it is firing twice per revolution a problem too?
  
• Does the CDI box trigger a spark based on a positive or negative pulse from the trigger coil? I am thinking that maybee the coil I have is for a different engine and the polarity is backwards. I cannot change it becasue one end of the coil is physically tied to the mounting hole & ground.
  

Any other ideas? Is my thinking here correct, or should I be checking something else? Thanks in advance.

 

[roadkill]

is your flywheel key sheared?

 

[Adaptel]

At first, this would be the obvious cause of my symptoms, but the flywheel key is perfect and when I put the flywheel on, it definately "locks into" the position it is supposed to be in with no doubt. Also, each time I have removed the flywheel, I have pulled it straight off and made sure that the keyways are lined up....and they always are.

It really seams like the pulser coil must be sending a signal that is 90deg out of phase of what it is supposed to be. I really have looked at all the obvious things and something so weird is going on here.

 

[Larry's Shee]

well obviously the trigger coil isn't correct.

 

[244blackblastard]

knowing it was different than stock did you double check and make sure they shipped you the right one? something doesn't add up though you shouldn't get double spark it's almost like you have wrong wiring hooked up and getting a signal from lighting coil and ignition coil when testing or when you wired the coils on. Or possibly the wires are crossed/touching each other and getting both signals pushing through coil. the coil will amplify whatever gets sent to it.

 

[Adaptel]

Problem Solved!!!

In case anyone is interested, or if this might help someone down the road..here's the deal. I double-checked the package the trigger coil came in, and although it was an aftermarket coil, the yamaha part number on the package did match what the service manual stated was correct for that machine. Even so, I was convinced that this coil was the problem and didn't want to wait another bunch of days to solve this one.

The original stock coil was an "old school" type coil, with an exposed coil of wires wrapped around a spool...and the newer types are all molded into plastic. I took my old shorted out coil and removed all the epoxy, wire, and paper insulation from the spool and re-wound it with magnet wire I had in my shop. I used 75' of it, which gave me 20.1 ohms of coil resistance....which was nicely in the center of the specificaiton. I finished it off with some solder leads stolen from an old toggle switch, and finished by wrapping the spool with a of epoxy and tape around the coil and bases of the termianls.

I installed the coil in the engine and (with the spark plug out) spun the motor with a drill. The spark plug fired consistantly, but it was still firing at 90deg and 180deg like before. Since I had a 50-50 shot at getting the polarity correct for the coil, I took it out and switched around the ground and signal wires. A repeat of the timing light test showed a spark right around 0 degrees like it should be WOOHOO. After that it literally started right up on teh very first kick! Took a spin and got the joy I was seeking.

Bottom line is that even though the website mfgsupply list a coil with the correct part number for the blaster....it is not the right part. I sure learned that the hard way. Must be why they have a "no returns on electrical parts for any reason whatsoever policy. This way they can send you anything and you're stuck with it. Thanks for your suggestings and help.

 

[Larry's Shee]

I wonder if you had swapped the leads of the replacement coil would give same results?? I:I

 

[Adaptel]

I wonder if you had swapped the leads of the replacement coil would give same results?? I:I

If it was possible to swap the leads on the replacement coil, I am sure it would have worked.....but you cannot swap the leads on these "newer" styled coils. One of the coils leads is physically tied to the metal core & mountiung hole, and this connectrion is made under the epoxy shell, so it cannot be swapped.

So, the bottom line and lesson learned is......if anyone ever notices these symptoms in the future, the polarity of the pulser coil is backwards.

 

[madfighter5]

no spark on 2000 Yamaha Blaster

I need help I bought a blaster about 5 months ago first day it ran fine next day wouldn't start at all I did some research amd said it could be the TORS SYSTEM so I bought a kit and new piston and now im not getting any spark do I have a short somewhere along my wiring harness need help and I also bought a ignition coil and didnt help