I was wondering if water injection on a blaster engine would help increase power.
Whats your thoughts on tempurature reduction?
Whats your thoughts on tempurature reduction?
Water injection on a blaster...Has anybody tried it?
- Thread starter joeak47
- Start date
You are going to have to rig up a belt drive to run the fan, because unless you shroud it the Blaster electrics are not going to cut rubber.
I have not tried to run water injection on a 2 stroke as yet.
Years ago I ran it on my saloon speedway car, power was increased somewhat and the engine ran clean, no trace of carbon after a seasons racing.
Have you though on how you would power it, or are you thinking of a pressurised canister?
My concern with water injection is that after the engine is shutoff there may be some amount left in the crank case. Also, oil shear beading might be a problem. Water injection is used on 4 strokes with good results but the oil and water are kept separate (water on top of the piston, oil underneath) while 2 strokes oil and any water you put in would be inherently mixed.
I have a better idea for temperature reduction..... buy an alky carb and run methanol or E85. The incoming fuel charge cools the engine down IMMENSELY upon entering and burns cooler.
I'm all for thinking outside of the box but this is truly one area where you don't need to reinvent the wheel. 65-75hp blaster drag engines run on methanol with very little heat production.... you can run a 50hp blaster engine on alcohol in the worst desert conditions without heat problems.
I have a better idea for temperature reduction..... buy an alky carb and run methanol or E85. The incoming fuel charge cools the engine down IMMENSELY upon entering and burns cooler.
I'm all for thinking outside of the box but this is truly one area where you don't need to reinvent the wheel. 65-75hp blaster drag engines run on methanol with very little heat production.... you can run a 50hp blaster engine on alcohol in the worst desert conditions without heat problems.
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I knew that, just what was I thinking about.
Water and oil are arch enemies and do not like each other.
I knew that, just what was I thinking about.
Water and oil are arch enemies and do not like each other.
water injection on a blaster with a 50 percent water and 50 percent alcohol mix will work. i would say if you have a drag blaster yes but if its a trail bike no it would be pointless.I can say if you ran a blaster with nitrous alcohol/water injection would help cause, it would prevent detonnation when you run so much timing when running a big shot of nitrous
The water would have to be injected directly into the combustion chamber.
Injecting water through the crankcase would cause problems emulsifing the unsuspended oil which feeds the bearings and cylinder walls.
Water laden oil is corrosive and would soon damage the bearing surfaces.
Water injection works well in 4 strokes with no oil/water mixing problems as it is injected above the piston.
Injecting water through the crankcase would cause problems emulsifing the unsuspended oil which feeds the bearings and cylinder walls.
Water laden oil is corrosive and would soon damage the bearing surfaces.
Water injection works well in 4 strokes with no oil/water mixing problems as it is injected above the piston.
Why not just take some soft copper pipe and run it thru the fins of the had with a circulator run to a small radiatior with a fan?Wrap it right around the ingine in between the cooling fins,Always ondered about that hehe.
Well it would prevent it from self igniting off the walls because its get so hot that it will start self igniting
Between a layer of copper and a layer of aluminum you'd probably be LESS effective cooling than just using air rushing over the cooling fins.
The BEST solution would be a blaster sleeve in a custom aluminum slug with a cooling jacket around it. It would be simple, easy (not to manufacture but to install!), and potentially very powerful.
But again, you can build a really powerful blaster engine on gasoline without worrying about overheating and if you are overheating you can throw it on methanol or E85/ethanol and keep on gettin it.
Actually..... I was thinking about a small metal tube welded into the exhaust heat pipe. This small tube would have a one way check ball. This tube would be connected to a water,or water alchohol mix in a small bottle,or perhaps the old oil injection tank cold be used to hold the mix
a small amount of the mix would be drawn into the exhaust stream as its exiting the exhaust port.It would do this through venturi action much like a main jet ,and would be forced back into the chamber with the return pressure wave. The one way valve would keep the return wave from blowing back pressure into the mix tank.
In theory it sounds like it would cool the intake charge right before ignition. All this without running any water in the crank case.
Anyway...
a small amount of the mix would be drawn into the exhaust stream as its exiting the exhaust port.It would do this through venturi action much like a main jet ,and would be forced back into the chamber with the return pressure wave. The one way valve would keep the return wave from blowing back pressure into the mix tank.
In theory it sounds like it would cool the intake charge right before ignition. All this without running any water in the crank case.
Anyway...
hmmmmm my concern would be that you'd "monkey" with the tuned pipe pressure waves enough that it would make the pipe inefficient (at least out of its rpm range). The speed of sound is affected by temperature and most are designed around "standard" exhaust heat figures.
I don't really know, try it and let us know!
I don't really know, try it and let us know!
I have a better idea!
Drill a hole into the head beside the spark plug hole and install a mechanical pump gear driven timed to the crank (where the oil injection pump goes would be a good spot) and install a wide spray pattern injector in the hole. The injector could be set to spray as soon as the exhaust port closes so it will cool the piston/cylinder walls but not dampen the fire out. This would have the maximum cooling capacity with the least amount of water/alcohol used and would affect the tuned pipe the least.
That would cool the charge and the running gear without affecting the tuned pipe as much
Drill a hole into the head beside the spark plug hole and install a mechanical pump gear driven timed to the crank (where the oil injection pump goes would be a good spot) and install a wide spray pattern injector in the hole. The injector could be set to spray as soon as the exhaust port closes so it will cool the piston/cylinder walls but not dampen the fire out. This would have the maximum cooling capacity with the least amount of water/alcohol used and would affect the tuned pipe the least.
That would cool the charge and the running gear without affecting the tuned pipe as much
lot of good thoughts n ideas here,My dad failed to patent some of his ideas years aggo,his partner got rich,my dad died broke.Just a thought lol.
I was thinking this.....
That tube I mention is "L" shaped. Alot like the pitot tube on an airplane. It could be aim AWAY from the cyliner's exhaust port, or TOWARD the cylinder's exhaust port. If it was aimed TOWARD the exhaust port,it would receive a quick suction from the returning pressure wave as it enters the cylinder right before the piston closes the port. What do you think?:-/
