Water gives me problems.

[darealblaster]

Ok, so my Blaster runs perfect, jetting is spot on, good compression, leak tested, exhaust flange sealed nicely but everytime my Blaster gets really muddy or after washing it, it turns off or wont start. If its running, it starts to run poorly, like if it had a rich jet type of symptom. After I wash it, if it starts it will do a few loud pops of the exhaust and then idle fine.

Im thinking my problem is electrical and it might be the ignition coil. Any thoughts? Today I couldnt even finish my Cross COuntry Race because of that problem.

 

[Awk08]

something electrical is definately getting wet and shorting out.
did you do any of the suggestions from your other thread on this same problem ?
di-electric grease on all connections ?
have you had the stator cover off to see if water is getting in there ?
plug boot good and tight on the plug ?

 

[Quadman1]

Does water get into your air box? Maybe the filter gets wet or muddy and that causes it.

 

[darealblaster]

something electrical is definately getting wet and shorting out.
did you do any of the suggestions from your other thread on this same problem ?
di-electric grease on all connections ?
have you had the stator cover off to see if water is getting in there ?
plug boot good and tight on the plug ?

Does water get into your air box? Maybe the filter gets wet or muddy and that causes it.

Air filter is dry,not the problem. I did not use Dielectric grease because It,s a non conductor so i thought it would give more problems than it solves. Stator Cover I have to admit that it honestly went past me and forgot to check it.

Plug Boot is like new and ignition coil is barely a year old. Ill start tomorrow with pulling the statot cover and inspecting for water.

 

[Blaaster]

 

[darealblaster]

Ok, so the seal on the stator cover wasnt doing its job. Mud and water was found on the stator. Im going to clean it up and get another seal with some good gasket silicone so nothing gets in there. Am I looking at the culprit of my problem? I cant run some tests today since I dont have the seal, so while that is happening, Im going to go over all the connections and try to get that dielectric grease

 

[darealblaster]

I cleaned the area around the flywheel, sprayed a little WD40 to get water out and Im gonna leave it like that in the open so it drys out completely. Im thinking all I need to do is get the new seal, since the stator works when it is dried, its still in working condition. This is what I think, if I need a new one just becasue it got wet please let me know. I feel like a complete noob for missing such an important thing.

 

[Quadman1]

If you get a new stator, do not get a Rickey or rm! Go oem.

 

[warmeck]

I cleaned the area around the flywheel, sprayed a little WD40 to get water out and Im gonna leave it like that in the open so it drys out completely. Im thinking all I need to do is get the new seal, since the stator works when it is dried, its still in working condition. This is what I think, if I need a new one just becasue it got wet please let me know. I feel like a complete noob for missing such an important thing.

you should test the stator after it dries up and see what it reads

 

[Larry's Shee]

Ok, Am I looking at the culprit of my problem? Im going to go over all the connections and try to get that dielectric grease

Now that we're on the same page.
Blaaster's post reads a lot like the link I put in your other thread.
Electricity is lazy, it takes the path of least resistance. It would rather travel one inch of water film on the side of the plug than jump a gap of .025".
So, we have one end of the plug boot covered, now the other. Remove boot and trim 1/4" from wire (fresh, uncorroded wire) install with a dab of (wait for it ) dielectric grease. And or you could use liquid electrical tape. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-4-fl-oz-Liquid-Electrical-Tape-LTB-400/100119178 http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...sives/permatex--liquid-electrical-tape-detail I know you were taping up connections, but that stuff absolutly seals/protects a connection, and isn't affected by oil/gas. Available at Home supply, electical shop, good hardware store. Could also use it where plug wire goes into coil.

I know that salt air is rough on everything, so if you clean all connections, both male and female, and protect them you should be good to go. Also check other two unused gromets on cover.

 

[darealblaster]

Alright, my stator tested good, installed flywheel back after getting everything cleaned. New seal for the stator cover cleaned up all connections, new electrical tape and got that dielectric grease on my spark plug boot and the wires coming from the stator. Cant test it tho cause finished it late and going on vacations for 2 weeks. When I get bacck ill do some testing and see if my problem is gone. Thanks for all the help.

So, we have one end of the plug boot covered, now the other. Remove boot and trim 1/4" from wire (fresh, uncorroded wire) install with a dab of (wait for it ) dielectric grease. And or you could use liquid electrical tape. .

Not sure I understood. Could you be a little more specific, Im kinda loss at the trim and install.

 

[Awk08]

be sure where the wires enter the stator caver is sealed good too, i shot some silicon into mine where the wires enter the boot thingy

 

[Larry's Shee]

The plug wire is solid core metal wire. Over time it corrodes at the end where the cap screws on. You remove the cap and cut the wire off 1/4 inch and then you have brand new fresh connection.
I know it's hard to wrap my head around the grease part too because of it's insulative properties. It won't fix bad connections but it helps to keep good ones from going bad.

 

[darealblaster]

be sure where the wires enter the stator caver is sealed good too, i shot some silicon into mine where the wires enter the boot thingy

Yep got that covered, I think a good amount of the water entered that way since that "boot" over time somehow stretches and does not seal good.

The plug wire is solid core metal wire. Over time it corrodes at the end where the cap screws on. You remove the cap and cut the wire off 1/4 inch and then you have brand new fresh connection.
I know it's hard to wrap my head around the grease part too because of it's insulative properties. It won't fix bad connections but it helps to keep good ones from going bad.

Ok, now I understand, altho I don't think Ill have to do mine since the wire and coil are only around a year old with less than 20 hours of use.

Yea that dielectric grease is a little hard to understand, but if it works, no reason to overthink it.