This is my first two stroke build so I'm curious as to what to do. I've shaved the head, stroked it 4mm. .60 over bore ported and polished the jug. Installed boysen port holes. Fmf fatty pipe and silencer. How much more power am I looking at. And what else can I do. I've read about reeds and bigger carb. Help
trying to make big power. help
- Thread starter weldman
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you need a properly modified head, not just shaved down, there's a lot of power to be head with it done right.
check kenoconnorracing.com for that if you can't do it yourself or locally.
the stock carb is best with the FMF pipe
depending on where you want the power, there are better pipes than the low/mid FMF for top end power....
Toomey for mid/high, or any of the left bends <(which do like bigger carbs)
check kenoconnorracing.com for that if you can't do it yourself or locally.
the stock carb is best with the FMF pipe
depending on where you want the power, there are better pipes than the low/mid FMF for top end power....
Toomey for mid/high, or any of the left bends <(which do like bigger carbs)
Reed spacers just move the power up or down depending on if it's put in front of or behind the reeds. It does not add power.
A reed spacer between the reeds and the cylinder will bring the power on a little earlier, between the reeds and the carb, just a little later.
No more power will happen.
No more power will happen.
Grind the stator/trigger mounting holes and advance timing3-4 degrees advance. That's one way!
The stator/ trigger plate is mounted with screws. Imagine taking out the screws and rotating the plate 3-4 degrees timing retarding direction>(clockwise as your facing the flywheel side of the engine) as the engine rotates counter clockwise facing the the flywheel side. Re-drilling the two mounting holes or olongating the plate screw holes to achieve trigger retard which actually advances timing.
You must use a advance degree wheel and make a 0 reference mark 1st, then olongating the plate screw holes and relocate plate. I've read wher these guys are advancing the base timing 3-4 degrees. Which also raises the cylinder temperatures and cylinder head temps! Way over advanced timing will cause predetonation and melt the piston like butter!!! So Be Very Informed!!!
you can buy a adjustable plate if your not confident or not cheap.
a modded head wont need timing advance.
especially if you run half race/half regular gas
if you lower the cc of dome too much/and compression is over id say 160psi you will need race gas.
search timing advance on a yamaha blaster on youtube.
im not posting videos or link do to awesome response's recieved....
a modded head wont need timing advance.
especially if you run half race/half regular gas
if you lower the cc of dome too much/and compression is over id say 160psi you will need race gas.
search timing advance on a yamaha blaster on youtube.
im not posting videos or link do to awesome response's recieved....
i will add there is people that have the correct way to mod a cylinder head
with over 160psi that run 93 octane without 50/50 mix race gas that claim there is no
detonation but not everyone perhaps has same experience
1 guy was claiming 190psi on 93 octane i think his wallet was FAT.
with over 160psi that run 93 octane without 50/50 mix race gas that claim there is no
detonation but not everyone perhaps has same experience
1 guy was claiming 190psi on 93 octane i think his wallet was FAT.
The stock head shaved down will cause detonation. I've done it.
Like Awk08 says, getting a good head is everything! Here is an example:
Stock head on the right, modified head in the background.
With a good head you can run pump gas, stock timing and 160psi compression.
30+ HP is pretty easy to attain with your pipe and some good jetting.
With a better head design you actually back your timing off as you increase the compression.
Like Awk08 says, getting a good head is everything! Here is an example:
Stock head on the right, modified head in the background.
With a good head you can run pump gas, stock timing and 160psi compression.
30+ HP is pretty easy to attain with your pipe and some good jetting.
With a better head design you actually back your timing off as you increase the compression.
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