Tore open blaster engine

[R0dd]

Tearing open a 2001 blaster engine that's been sitting for a few years to put into my 2004 roller. Here are some pics when I opened up the top end. Does the piston and dome look good? The dome is a little pitted and burnt looking put seems ok. Also the flywheel key looks like it got beat up do i need a new one? I initially took off the flywheel to put in a 03+ stator to match up with the newer wiring harness already on the frame. Ill post more pictures as I keep tearing this motor open. Im gonna put in all new gaskets and seals before doing the leak down test.

 

[R0dd]

Reed cage gasket Is bad did it get too hott and bake the gasket to the metal?

 

[Markblaster]

Tearing open a 2001 blaster engine that's been sitting for a few years to put into my 2004 roller. Here are some pics when I opened up the top end. Does the piston and dome look good? The dome is a little pitted and burnt looking put seems ok. Also the flywheel key looks like it got beat up do i need a new one? I initially took off the flywheel to put in a 03+ stator to match up with the newer wiring harness already on the frame. Ill post more pictures as I keep tearing this motor open. Im gonna put in all new gaskets and seals before doing the leak down test.

Head looks fine. Clean it or get it machined for more power.

Thread on the crack shaft that holds the flywheel on looks stripped. Flywheel key looks broken level with the crackshaft and the flywheel has been spinning on the shaft leaving that make on it?

 

[R0dd]

I didn't really understand what you said at the end.

 

[Tankbuster]

It definitely saw better days.... I would renew the whole motor. Do it right the first time or pay a hefty, hefty price the next time. Just my opinion.
-TANK-

 

[Awk08]

the carbon on dome and piston looks OK.
what was the compression ? that'll tell you the condition of the piston/rings/cylinder clearance

get new OEM flywheel key, chances are an Ace Hardware brand won't be correct.
lap the flywheel to the crank with valve grinding compound.
you'll need a new head gasket, or anneal that one, to reassemble it

lap flywheel....

 

[R0dd]

Just lapped the flywheel and buttoned that side up with a new woodruff key. Took the jug off and see that a hot rods crank is in there so this motor has been opened up before. There was no gasket between jug and cases and I saw these pockets/chambers that the gasket was supposed to cover filled with water/oil type liquid. Maybe it was run without a gasket? I cleaned them out and I'm gonna button it up with new gasket set from tusk.

 

[BanzaiBlaster]

Looks like one of the alignment pins is missing. On the left upper stud should have a collar like the left lower. Those holes are remnants of the water cooled casting. The gunk is from running no base gasket. You need to check squish. Is it a stroker crank?

 

[R0dd]

Found the alignment pin, it was still attached to jug.

 

[R0dd]

I took off the clutch basket to start replacing the crank seal and the primary drive looked like this with this orange stuff that I chipped away. Got the primary gear off but now the balancer drive gear seems to be stuck. Tried some controlled strikes with a small hammer to see if I can get it loose with no luck, any advise?

 

[BanzaiBlaster]

It should just slide off but that looks like some kind of locking agent or an attempt to seal a leak. Heat the gear and use a 3 jaw ...gently. looking at the reed cage pic I'm wondering if the lack of a base gasket altered the port timing enough to get exhaust gasses back to the intake tract?? Or the key shearing's effects on ignition timing caused burnback(my vote). Maybe someone who's degreed a blaster engine would know more. I used this cage and reeds. The manifold needs to be trimmed flat on the reed side when using the Bullseye cage.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/142240971951

 

[R0dd]

It should just slide off but that looks like some kind of locking agent or an attempt to seal a leak. Heat the gear and use a 3 jaw ...gently. looking at the reed cage pic I'm wondering if the lack of a base gasket altered the port timing enough to get exhaust gasses back to the intake tract?? Or the key shearing's effects on ignition timing caused burnback(my vote). Maybe someone who's degreed a blaster engine would know more. I used this cage and reeds. The manifold needs to be trimmed flat on the reed side when using the Bullseye cage.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/142240971951

Thanks man, not too worried about the reed cage as I have a vforce 4 in the box waiting to get put on. I'm gonna try pulling that gear off after hearing it tho

 

[R0dd]

Hey guys, finally getting Blaster back together after a year lol. Shout out KOR for the rebuild. I have this spring I can’t find in the manual. It looks like I can attach it to the back of the brake pedal but dose the spring need to be looped in the hole entirely? I can only get the beginning of it in. Also what’s the best way to set it as far as the threads go on that sensor? Tighten all the way?

Thanks I’m advanced guys. See pics

 

[R0dd]

NVM finally found its a brake light sensor