top end rebuild

mpleger76

New Member
Jun 26, 2010
18
0
0
CDA, Idaho
sorry i have so many questions!! I finially got my cylinder back from the machinist with my new .30 over wiseco piston. this is my first time rebuilding any motor parts on a atv. i noticed the directions said something about drilling lubrication holes on 2 cycle engines that have a exhaust bridge. does this aply to me? exhaust bridge? i plan on tourqing the head down to 18 ft pounds, what about the base? i guess im a little nervous i spent a few bucks on the blaster the last couple weeks and want things to go good. i put on a tors elim kit with idle screw and rebuilt my stock carb, fmf pipe and silencer, boyseen reeds i cut a 3 inch by 6.5 inch hole in my airbox and fit it with a outerwear, not to mention i just put douglass .190 alum rims with kenda tires on, all this month. would like any good advise.. thinking of starting my jetting at 300 main and working my way down. thanks
 
no, the drillin holes part does not apply to blasters
i'd do the head nuts to 20 ft. lbs. and the base nuts to 25 ft. lbs., and make sure to retorque them after complete cool down after the last heat cycle, a leakdown test is also recommended to check for airleaks too, holeshot sells them on here if ya need one
and you state you opened up the airbox some???? ya better bump that main jet up 1 or 2 sizes to compensate for the extra airflow
search, read, re-read how to do "plug chops"
 
Thanks to bf and all the blasterheads out there i'm finially building my own machine and having a blast!! i just painted my jug with some hitemp black puttin it back together tomorrow eve.. thanks again all!!!
 
I would have to say that skipping the leakdown test could turn out to be one of the worst steps to skip. They are pretty easy to build. you can look it up on the do it yourself page. they only thing I am having trouble finding is a pressure guage that reads low pressure accurately. best of luck to ya