here is my situation. Boss's bike, brand new top end (.010' over) ran before i tore it down. had bad crank seal, sucked air, yada yada yada. Any ways. the engine is back in the bike and i'm doing ...pre-flight checks, if you will. had no spark and started poking around. disconnected the "TORS brain" as per other member's recommendations and was going to try another CDI box i have off an older Blaster. long story short i had spark with the TORS disconnected and the CDI box unplugged. i'm assuming that it's nowhere near the correct advance or retard but the system makes enough juice to jump a pretty decent gap on my secondary ignition system tester so, there is that. the "strange" part is why it's making secondary voltage (or 'spark') with that CDI box disconnected and the TORS unplugged. plug in the CDI and it gets nothing. now my knowledge of what goes on inside a CDI box is fairly limited but i do know that it stores voltage and releases it (hence the words CAPACITOR and DISCARGE). Bottom line time. i believe the CDI box is bad and need a new one. question is ,are there any quality aftermarket ones out there?? the OEM one is about $175 new and i can buy complete HO ignition systems from the stator out for less then that (including the CDI box). who makes a good one?? i've read ricky stator is junk several times so his stuff is out and i know that if i find one for $10.00 on ebay its gonna be sh*t too. beyond that i have no idea who makes a good replacement short of Nology and that step aint nessecary with this bike. any suggestion would help me out. thanks in advance.
strange ignition system activity
- Thread starter Bud
- Start date
are you sure you're unplugging the cdi and not the 3 wire tors box up under the hood ?
i see no way for any spark with the cdi unplugged as the orange wire from the cdi is what provides the pulse to the coil, without the cdi = no orange wire/pulse = no spark
i see no way for any spark with the cdi unplugged as the orange wire from the cdi is what provides the pulse to the coil, without the cdi = no orange wire/pulse = no spark
staring at the bike from the front. on the right side under the "hood" which one is the CDI box?? the top most is the one i checked out. if i'm working with the wrong box it would certainly explain the strange activity. if the cdi box is still hooked up does this mean there is something wrong with the TORS?? Its all completely hooked up and stock. is there some adjustment on it?? any common problems with this system??
sounds exactly like you were unplugging the 3 wire tors unit, and it was indeed solving your problem.
i'm not sure of their position anymore as it's been quite a while since either of my bikes have had the tors box.
tors is a 3 wire plug, the cdi is 5 wires with individual butt connectors for each in the colors i listed above
i'm not sure of their position anymore as it's been quite a while since either of my bikes have had the tors box.
tors is a 3 wire plug, the cdi is 5 wires with individual butt connectors for each in the colors i listed above
ok. consider me schooled. now on to the next question. can i run it with the TORS disconnected?? or how do i make it work with the TORS hooked up?? this whole TORS thing is a pain in the ass. boss doesn't wanna remove it though so i need to figure out how to make it work. any suggestions aside from tearing it completely off??
The TORS is renowned to be leaving folks out in the woods to be eaten by a Bear.
They do seem to cause a fair amount of trouble.
Unless there is to be an inexperienced rider using the Quad, most people remove it!
They do seem to cause a fair amount of trouble.
Unless there is to be an inexperienced rider using the Quad, most people remove it!
not worth fooling with trying to repair it, IMO, remove it completely, or at least leave the box unplugged and he'll think it still works ?
it's basically a throttle over ride system for new/young riders, in case the slide in the carb sticks open and the thumb throttle is released, it senses the difference with micro switches at both, if they don't match, it shuts the bike down.
for an adult/experienced rider....it's easy to just hit the kill switch with your thumb if it sticks wide open.
90% of us on here have deleted the tors system, and even the box on top of the carb with a tors delete kit.
ditch it !
it's basically a throttle over ride system for new/young riders, in case the slide in the carb sticks open and the thumb throttle is released, it senses the difference with micro switches at both, if they don't match, it shuts the bike down.
for an adult/experienced rider....it's easy to just hit the kill switch with your thumb if it sticks wide open.
90% of us on here have deleted the tors system, and even the box on top of the carb with a tors delete kit.
ditch it !
The only thing you have to do to disable the TORS is unplug the box circled in red. You have a dilemma. Leave the TORS box unplugged and tell your boss the TORS is working. But then if your bosses 8 year old daughter has a throttle stick and crashes, your fired. Or... Figure out what you did wrong on assembly to make the TORS system kill the spark. If you want to troubleshoot it, here is how it works. The switch in the carb is closed when the throttle is closed. The switch in the thumb throttle is open when your not pushing on it. The switches are wired in parallel. So, the TORS box must see a connection of the black/yellow wire to ground for there to be spark. At idle, the carb switch provides the ground. When you push the thumb throttle, the switch in the thumb throttle closes and the switch on the carb opens. If the carb sticks, the switch stays open, and when you let off the thumb throttle, that switch goes open too and the TORS kills the spark. So, more than likely the switch on the carb box is disconnected or the slide is not going all the way down. It's possible that the carb switch just failed, but that seems unlikely to just happen while you had it apart.
http://www.motosport.com/atv/oem-parts/YAMAHA/2003/BLASTER/ELECTRICAL-1
http://www.motosport.com/atv/oem-parts/YAMAHA/2002/BLASTER/ELECTRICAL-1
IIRC, you can't buy the switches seperate. He would have to buy the thumb throttle, cable, and carb to ensure 100% operation. Quite a while back someone posted that it was $400+ for all, IIRC.
