Alright, so I got another Blaster free in trade. Previous owner didnt give me much info on the bike, other than saying it wouldnt start. Kicked it over a bunch of times and nothing. Just for hte hell of it, kicked it over with the throttle in a little and it fired right up. Let off the throttle and it dies every time. Starts every time with the throttle in about an eighth of an inch. First thing I did was change the plug. Color was good, no sign of being lean. Replaced it anyway. Noticed idle screw on TORS unit was broken. Hoping that was the problem, I eliminated the TORS with a motion pro kit and still the same thing. Cleaned the carb again, main jet was mint. Pilot jet may have had a little buildup, hard to see in the hole. Cleaned it out thoroughly anyway and put it all back together. Still the same thing. I tried tweaking the new idle screw I tapped into the carb and it didnt make any diffference. Same thing with the pilot air screw. Tried adjusting the cable itself for a little more throttle opening and still nothing. But if I just sit there and hold it like an eighth of an inch on the thrumb throttle it stays running. Exhaust seems a little whiter than my other blaster but that one still has the oil injection whereas this one is running premix. Any thoughts on where to go next? Checked reeds and theyre intact with no issues. Revs up nice and crisp, just wont idle. Im about to break down and take it to a local place and see what they say. Only thing I know thats still out of whack is the bike has a full Bills Pipes exhaust but still has the stock 230 main and 32.5 pilot. Air box lid is still on. I know I need a bigger main, but Im a little more concerned with getting it so it stays running first. Could the pilot jet be too small? A lot of people are saying change the main and move the needle around but I was under the impression that neither of those would affect the idle. Any help would be appreciated. Also, if I installed the TORS eliminator kit, do I have to mess around with any of the electrical on the bike, save for disconnecting the TORS unit connector itself? Someone said I might have to disconnect the TORS brain box but if the TORS is off the bike, would that brain still even do anything??
Still wont idle, any tips before I send it to a shop
- Thread starter zero_chance
- Start date
if you have the elimaintion kit you shouldnt have a tors on there.did u unplug the switch from the throttle box?it should idle when u mess with the idle screw that you taped in the carb.i would go up on the main like 1 or2 sizes.and the pilot jet is clean?is the float needle good?is the float height set?
mine wouldnt idle when i got mine and i switched coils with one of my friends to try and find his problem he was having. and ever since then mine started to idle no problem. maybe nothin but maybe it might help
make sure the tors box is unpluged, air idel srew is turned up so theres a little gap in the slide, and is the slide in backwards mabe. and check your spark.
Yes, I tapped the carb and added the idle screw... I no longer have the TORS unit itself but I did not touch the "brain" under the hood as Ive heard it called. Didnt disconnect any switch in the throttle box either, I was under the impression I didnt have to when using the actual eliminator kit. Ill take a look at that switch tomorrow. Pilot jet is definitely clean. Not sure what to look for to tell if the needle is good. Any tips? Not sure on float height either. Is there a spec or procedure for checking it? Im unfortunately new to carbs...
Slide is oriented properly and the idle screw I added does raise the slide when all the way in and lower it as I back it out. Even with the idle screw all the way in, the cable adjusted so it lifts the slide a little bit it still wont idle unless I give it a little thumb pressure on the throttle. I can make it seem like its idling fine by putting a little pressure on it but as soon as I let off, it will sputter and die out. Im almost tempted to swap carbs between the blaster just to see if the problem is carb related or something else. Might be what I do tomorrow. Im still waiting on my oil pump block off kit for the 94 or I would have likely swapped them today to see if it made a difference. Didnt want to cut the oil line on the 94 until I have the kit though.
Slide is oriented properly and the idle screw I added does raise the slide when all the way in and lower it as I back it out. Even with the idle screw all the way in, the cable adjusted so it lifts the slide a little bit it still wont idle unless I give it a little thumb pressure on the throttle. I can make it seem like its idling fine by putting a little pressure on it but as soon as I let off, it will sputter and die out. Im almost tempted to swap carbs between the blaster just to see if the problem is carb related or something else. Might be what I do tomorrow. Im still waiting on my oil pump block off kit for the 94 or I would have likely swapped them today to see if it made a difference. Didnt want to cut the oil line on the 94 until I have the kit though.
If the carb is unplugged but the throttle switch isn't, you will get exactly this problem. The TORS is killing the ignition when the switch is activated. Basically it is working as designed.
Unplug the throttle switch. If it is an older model that is all you need. If it is 03+ you will also need to jumper the wires to the throttle switch from the TORS together.
Unplug the throttle switch. If it is an older model that is all you need. If it is 03+ you will also need to jumper the wires to the throttle switch from the TORS together.
Going to go unplug the throttle switch everyone is talking about and hopefully that will help my cause. If not, I think my last resort will be shipping her out. Thanks for all the help guys. Hopefully Ill have some good news to report back
PROGRESS UPDATE = Well I finally managed to get it running and idleing fine. Even starts on the first kick every time. I:I Thanks to all the tips and suggestions. It turned out to be the throttle switch that was killing it. Thats why it would stay running fine just into the throttle because the switch was no longer pressed. However I should note, that just unplugging that switch made the bike not start at all. I then unplugged and removed the "brain box" of the TORS and she fired right up. Thanks again, Im glad I didnt have to bring it in for service. Even though the price was going to be very low for diag, Id rather do it myself. Only have one more problem and shell be up and running but Im going to start a new thread for that.
Thanks, man. Yeah it's definitely nice to be able to start it and have it run on its own. Just got to figure out the clutch issue now and she'll be pretty much good to go. I think its just the plates sticking from sitting too long. Took off the cover and I had to really pry with my fingers to get the plates apart with the clutch depressed. Theyre a little more free now. Im hoping a quick ride will free them up for good like it did on the 94. Heres hoping.
