started +3 rebuild but found this!

[craigz9876]

so i started rebuilding my engine today with the +3 cranks and few other parts i parted the cases to find this

look at the end of the machined groove, you can see where it was catching

also scored the balancer shaft
gonna go get some bearings tomorrow as these are shagged
does anyone have any suggestions to get this bearing out? been trying for ages but wont budge!

think i might have to take it to work in the morn and weld something toit maybe?

 

[R&S Polishing]

heat the cases and sweat it out

 

[craigz9876]

Tried it pal didn't want to budge. Will try to heat it at work as I have more equipment I'll either try to swaet it or weld something to it

 

[York Racing]

Eh forget the balancer. They're for puss's. lol

 

[Blaner]

ummm...avatar.....ummm what was question?

 

[GIXER7502006]

looks like you wont hav to trench the case lol j/k

 

[244blackblastard]

I had one once like that that was hard on a polaris scrambler. you can try a weighted puller/ slide hammer they make them to pull bearings like that or for pulling car ignitions or tranny roller bearings etc or maybe try the old way of packing with grease as much as you can fit inside on other side of bearing and fill bearing hole and use a wooden dowel slightly smaller to fit in bearing hole and rap with a rubber hammer. it's works by the force of the grease pressing out the bearing by fluid pressure against the wooden dowel or last resort you can cut the bearing out with cutting bits with a air tool like the same you would use for porting etc but use a fine cut bit . if you cut just make sure you don't cut into case to much. usually rap the inner bearing race with a solid metal rod to able to break it out,remove ball holder ring then you only have to cut the outer bearing race. You just have to make 1 cut and you turn the bearing race into basically a spring clip so you can flex it and remove it. found a video on the grease method you can watch.....

 

[sicivicdude]

^^^^ that's a pretty slick trick BUT you have to have a socket that's the exact OD as the bearing is ID and the bearing can't be permeable (like the balancer shaft bearing is) for the hydraulic pressure trick to work.

What you need is more heat, and a blind hole bearing puller. Harbor Freight tools has a cheapy for $45:

Blind Hole Bearing Puller

With enough heat, the bearing will actually just fall out of the case but you've got to cook the cases to get that to happen.

 

[Blazed405]

How in the world did it do that?

The other case half not have a bearing or something??

That looks almost impossible!

That suckers really off in a hole aint it, good luck.

 

[sicivicdude]

A piston chunk has "made the rounds" and shoved the case outwards closing the hole up around the balancer shaft.

Believe it or not, that's completely recoverable. Some fine grain sand paper to remove the aluminum from the balancer, a sanding drum on a dremel tool to get the necessary clearance back, and a thorough check of the cases to make SURE there are no cracks.

 

[slickerthanyou]

^^^^ that's a pretty slick trick BUT you have to have a socket that's the exact OD as the bearing is ID and the bearing can't be permeable (like the balancer shaft bearing is) for the hydraulic pressure trick to work.

What you need is more heat, and a blind hole bearing puller. Harbor Freight tools has a cheapy for $45:

Blind Hole Bearing Puller

With enough heat, the bearing will actually just fall out of the case but you've got to cook the cases to get that to happen.

I agree, and bought one, also found out if you put the toll in and then heat the area with blow torch for 3 minutes two smacks and it out!

 

[craigz9876]

I used the burning gear at work and got the cases as hot as it would go then welded a nut to it and ended up getting it out with a slide hammer whilst heating the cases! But anyway got it built back up got it in the quad today, did a leakdown test and I had a leak from the spacer plate. Then stripped the thread out of the cylinder to crankcase so had to put a new stud in. And now I've sorted that leak out to have a leak from the engine breather! So called it a day for now think i must have damaged a crank seal so looks like I got another thing to strip back down. But can't wait to give it a burn once run in and jetted
Lastly I know this has probably been said but what's recommended to run in the new crank? A few heat cycles like a top end or a tank of fuel or so? Cheers

 

[darederek]

you dont have to break in a crank. a break in is just for the rings to wear to the cylinder on a top end. take care of that leak and ride like u stole it!