I have a 9yr old son that races in area atv rodeos and I found him a blaster but I don't have a clue what mods work best for what we are needing out of it.Can you all give me some insight? The general idea is to be wide and low with good power to come out of sharp turns?
Rodeo Blaster Power
- Thread starter BRIAN ADWELL
- Start date
Put up what's done to it now, and then we can all chime in on what else needs done 
A few members boys race, they will be the most helpfull.
A few members boys race, they will be the most helpfull.
I just picked this thing up yesterday morning.It has been sitting for a while but previous owner said top-end was re-done and bored.080 right before he got it??? TORS removed,K&N air filter,DG silencer,pro-armor kill switch,new tusk nerfs.Thats all that I have seen thats been done.It is a 2000 model and when I cleaned carb it has a 280 main and a 32.5 pilot jet.Today when I took it out it would bog bad but if I shut gas off it would do good before it ran out like it was flooding the whole time any pointers what this bog is coming from? Thanks
I think it has too big of a jet for those mods and the first thing I would buy is a sway bar for it then the next thing would be 10" rear rims and a set of hoosier tires and then a dmc pipe iv heard there good at low to mid power and I would upgrade front brakes to the 03+ and maby some yfz 450 front calipers (dual piston) so that you can slow down going into the turns
I would pull the carb and check the float level. Does it have an airbox or is the filter right on the carb? If it does have an airbox, is the lid on it? You said dg silencer, so is the pipe stock? Check for a heat shield on the pipe, if it has one then it's a stock pipe.
A 0.080 Bore is the last one for that cylinder. The Dmc Pipe is very strong Low/Mid. I was shocked at the improvement when I installed mine.
Buy or build a leak down tester, and make sure its leak free, also check compression, float levels, and That 280 main seems a bit much for all of your mods. Also make sure the carb needle is in the Middle position.
Tech Blaaster Has a great article on leak testing, which Im sure he will put up when he gets on. Listen to what He has to say, My friend knows his Blasters.
Buy or build a leak down tester, and make sure its leak free, also check compression, float levels, and That 280 main seems a bit much for all of your mods. Also make sure the carb needle is in the Middle position.
Tech Blaaster Has a great article on leak testing, which Im sure he will put up when he gets on. Listen to what He has to say, My friend knows his Blasters.
It does have factory air box with no lid,so .080 is its last boring?I did take carb off earlier to check out the reeds and it has some sort of a 2-stage reed because it has 2 fiber pieces on top of the other and 1 side has a crack across it and there not sealing good at all about 1/16'' gap so couthat be some of the problem too?My 9yr old is pissed cause he got smoked by his 6yr old brother on his LT80!!! I got to get this thing fixed before he kills me!And yes its just a slip-on cause it has stock head pipe.I haven't seen anyone run 10" hoosiers on the back are you talking about a TT tire? Thanks
If the float level is correct a #260 - #270 should be fine.
Pilot stays the same at #32.5.
Check that the needle is in the middle slot.
Pilot stays the same at #32.5.
Check that the needle is in the middle slot.
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time for need reed petals, they must be in good shape, no cracks and sealing well !
those are probably vito's or boysen dual stage petals in yours now.
the directions of those suggest to leave the factory reed stoppers off, and use the little plate provided.
thats job security at best !
we've found they last much longer when the factory stoppers are used.
with the factory stoppers:
without the stoppers:
even the new VF4's went back to using the stoppers:
there is no need, or advantage to allowing the petals to open further than the stoppers allow,
besides lining the reed companies pocket when they wear out faster.
With the stoppers on place the reeds wrap around a radius.
Without the stoppers the reeds tend to take punishment from bending at the little plate.
Without the stoppers the reeds tend to take punishment from bending at the little plate.
yeah im assuming that you will be raceing on hardpack red clay dirt imo there the best tire for it
I got a smoking deal on this blaster I think.We got it for $270 and I just found another 2005 model for $150 plastic is in great condition and its white,all the parts on it look like new but it threw rod through case but it has alot of better parts I think will fit the 2000 model I just got? Does anyone have any performance parts that I might need?Cheap! Like to hind a good pipe for sure and get it lowered.Thanks
You would be better off to install the 02 motor I to the 05 Blaster. It has the better Brakes on the 05. You will just have to swap stators.
If you found an 05 model for 150 bucks buy it. You can sell the hydraulic brakes for more than that.
The guy said I could have it for $150 but he wants to keep the motor off of it for some reason.What do I need to do about the stator deal?I will prob.keep the hyd.brake set-up.Whats the best and cheapest way to lower it and make it wider cause i'm on a tight budget I'm a mechanic at a local GM/Nissan dealership!Will this thing be faster than his Built LT80 that he has been racing?It has everything that can be done done to it. I might have some performance parts for an LT80 that I could trade for some blaster parts if anybody would be interested? Thanks
it will KILL the lt80, i only have jacks stage 2 porting and clutch work and its quick, but just a stock blaster will pull on it without question, its a different league
Get an FMF or DMC pipe for the low range power.
Get the 2005, swap the motors. the 05 has all better brakes, and IMO looks a little better
Get the 2005, swap the motors. the 05 has all better brakes, and IMO looks a little better
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