Replacing pistons
- Thread starter Yfs
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If you are using a good oil, jetting correctly, keeping the air clean and warming up the right way, there is no reason that you should not get 50 hours plus.
If I change a piston at 20 hours that would have been 12 times a year.
If I change a piston at 20 hours that would have been 12 times a year.
So what if you need to replace a piston let's say 20 times a year, if it's needed it's needed...
My opinion is if you ride it hard, high rev mostly WOT it get's a beating.
I'm used to replacing parts that regular, have dirtbike's too
If ridden on the trails, i think you can get the 50 hours plus like blaaster said.
But my point is : it depends on many factors...
I've ridden 50+ very hard hours a week for a couple summers before without needing piston or rings replaced.
guaranteed I've had some of my KOR topends do 300 - 400+ hours easily over 2-3 seasons with proper care and preventive maintenence.
my first new '96 blaster was 8 years old when I sold it, with the stock piston still in it and still starting on 1 kick everytime.
clean the air filter like you'd change your under roo's, daily if needed.
use the correct filter cleaning and oil for foam or gauze filter.
good 2 stroke oil (maxima super m, injection or 32:1)
always, always, always, every time, light revs until fully warmed up before riding at all (sometimes I even do this out on the trails if I've been stopped for 20+ minutes)
check compression at least once a month during the season, it takes 10 minutes, and is the best gauge for the condition of your piston/bore.
when it starts falling below 110-ish, (120-ish if you run a 150+ compression head)
it's time for at least a hone and re-ring, depending on piston to cylinder clearence measured when you get it apart each time.
if thats stays in spec, re-ring away. use a new base gasket, and new or annealed head gasket, each time
when piston to cylinder clearence falls out of spec from wear or the re-ring honing, it's time for a new bore/piston.
and no wide open (or any 1 throttle position) for 5 minute+ rips down the highways.
air cooled 2 strokes just aren't made for that, and will not last.
if you insists on riding WFO open on roads.....go buy a liquid cooled 4 stroke !
guaranteed I've had some of my KOR topends do 300 - 400+ hours easily over 2-3 seasons with proper care and preventive maintenence.
my first new '96 blaster was 8 years old when I sold it, with the stock piston still in it and still starting on 1 kick everytime.
clean the air filter like you'd change your under roo's, daily if needed.
use the correct filter cleaning and oil for foam or gauze filter.
good 2 stroke oil (maxima super m, injection or 32:1)
always, always, always, every time, light revs until fully warmed up before riding at all (sometimes I even do this out on the trails if I've been stopped for 20+ minutes)
check compression at least once a month during the season, it takes 10 minutes, and is the best gauge for the condition of your piston/bore.
when it starts falling below 110-ish, (120-ish if you run a 150+ compression head)
it's time for at least a hone and re-ring, depending on piston to cylinder clearence measured when you get it apart each time.
if thats stays in spec, re-ring away. use a new base gasket, and new or annealed head gasket, each time
when piston to cylinder clearence falls out of spec from wear or the re-ring honing, it's time for a new bore/piston.
and no wide open (or any 1 throttle position) for 5 minute+ rips down the highways.
air cooled 2 strokes just aren't made for that, and will not last.
if you insists on riding WFO open on roads.....go buy a liquid cooled 4 stroke !
Difference of opinion i think, you guys think a 2-stroke SHOULD last almost indeffinately..
Y'all are saying PROPER maintenance lol
Replacing a piston once every 500 hours or so....
Lucky for people like this, a Blaster is so de-tuned 70's style that it can handle it.(bone stock)
I maintain my sh*t prob. too well, but anyways do what ever you want boys ride that blaster until it pops
Never had a major failure on any 2-stroke in my whole life....so it pays off to replace some parts now and then.
And no, you shouldn't ride wot for 5 min. on tarmac.. that way you'll never get those 8 years out of your pistonlol
Just an example, if you are mostly riding in low-mid rpm range or riding mostly WOT mid/high rpm, which engine lasts longer..?
Just like herpderpol said: at least check/replace once every season.
Transmission oil: every 5 hours
bottom end: every 200 hours
Air filter (foam,oiled):every 2 hours, then wash and re-oil(replace if needed)
spark plug: every 5>10 hours
Piston replacement competition 2-stroke engines:
80cc 8>10 hours
125cc 15 hours
250cc 20>25 hours
500cc 50>60 hours
This is all rpm related.
And now i'm done with it, good luck
Y'all are saying PROPER maintenance lol
Replacing a piston once every 500 hours or so....
Lucky for people like this, a Blaster is so de-tuned 70's style that it can handle it.(bone stock)
I maintain my sh*t prob. too well
, but anyways do what ever you want boys ride that blaster until it popsNever had a major failure on any 2-stroke in my whole life....so it pays off to replace some parts now and then.
And no, you shouldn't ride wot for 5 min. on tarmac.. that way you'll never get those 8 years out of your piston
lolJust an example, if you are mostly riding in low-mid rpm range or riding mostly WOT mid/high rpm, which engine lasts longer..?
Just like herpderpol said: at least check/replace once every season.
Transmission oil: every 5 hours
bottom end: every 200 hours
Air filter (foam,oiled):every 2 hours, then wash and re-oil(replace if needed)
spark plug: every 5>10 hours
Piston replacement competition 2-stroke engines:
80cc 8>10 hours
125cc 15 hours
250cc 20>25 hours
500cc 50>60 hours
This is all rpm related.
And now i'm done with it, good luck
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What do you have to change on the bottom end every 200hr ?Difference of opinion i think, you guys think a 2-stroke SHOULD last almost indeffinately..
Y'all are saying PROPER maintenance lol
Replacing a piston once every 500 hours or so....
Lucky for people like this, a Blaster is so de-tuned 70's style that it can handle it.(bone stock)
I maintain my sh*t prob. too well
Never had a major failure on any 2-stroke in my whole life....so it pays off to replace some parts now and then.
And no, you shouldn't ride wot for 5 min. on tarmac.. that way you'll never get those 8 years out of your piston
Just an example, if you are mostly riding in low-mid rpm range or riding mostly WOT mid/high rpm, which engine lasts longer..?
Just like herpderpol said: at least check/replace once every season.
Transmission oil: every 5 hours
bottom end: every 200 hours
Air filter (foam,oiled):every 2 hours, then wash and re-oil(replace if needed)
spark plug: every 5>10 hours
Piston replacement competition 2-stroke engines:
80cc 8>10 hours
125cc 15 hours
250cc 20>25 hours
500cc 50>60 hours
This is all rpm related.
And now i'm done with it, good luck
Connecting rod/ crank and bearings.
transmission bearings should be inspected/replaced, those are in a oil bath and if the oil changes are regular, the oil is always fresh so they don't wear much.
Remember: all the service hours that are mentioned are recommended for mx !
So you can add some hours to everything if not ridden hard all the time
transmission bearings should be inspected/replaced, those are in a oil bath and if the oil changes are regular, the oil is always fresh so they don't wear much.
Remember: all the service hours that are mentioned are recommended for mx !
So you can add some hours to everything if not ridden hard all the time
Aww gezz here we go So since its MX Recommendations Is that for A class B class C class ? A class on a National level or just a local A B C rider ? What about GNCC ? aww man I wonder if my blaster knows its on a track or at the dunes ? Mud snow ? If a part is in spec then its in spec if it has 1 hour on it or 500 , Now if you are talking about pro Racing when a riders salary makes the cost of a bike seem like pennies then by all means Change everything every time it hits the track
So since its MX Recommendations Is that for A class B class C class ? A class on a National level or just a local A B C rider ? What about GNCC ? aww man I wonder if my blaster knows its on a track or at the dunes ? Mud snow ? If a part is in spec then its in spec if it has 1 hour on it or 500 , Now if you are talking about pro Racing when a riders salary makes the cost of a bike seem like pennies then by all means Change everything every time it hits the trackLOL , another one.Aww gezz here we go
Yeah, if you got the engine apart to check if everything is in spec, might barely be in spec so bolt it up together? Or replace the parts that you know that will gonna fail, sooner or later....
Another one that thinks he can put a million miles on a blaster with only a sparkplug change LOL
Like i said, do what ever you want, I know for sure i can rip my 2-strokes everyday with out worrying how many light years the piston has on it....
Thank god they invented hour meters, instead if guessing when the engine needs a rebuild...
Like I already said, I like to keep everything fresh on my toys, doesn't mean you have to.
That's why in a couple of years there aren't good engine cases available anymore, because the former owner thought it was not necassary to change some parts now and then.
And if it's to expensive , get another hobby...or take the risk on a 1000 hour engine.
Just trying to advice someone that asked a question about swapping pistons, now everyone who knows from theirselves that they aren't maintaining as it should, is pissed at me for trying to explain that everything has an expiration date..
Eigenwijze mensen leren het nooit...
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Lol
Opinionated people never learn
I think in the states we say refer to this as
Having your head stuck too for up your rear to see the light of day.
But really though everyone has different ways of doing things, different riding styles, different temperatures and terrain.
I know after dropping a skirt, on a motor that had unknown history and audible piston slap and going through the extra effort of splitting the cases , replacing bearings etc. I will certainly opt for more caution.
I was told the piston would eventually go, I had known idea it would happen the first time I cracked 8500 rpm and slapped third.
If you got a tapping sound that gets suddenly louder after an overrev or hard running especially if it is loudest at idle and moderate free revving, better get that cylinder bored and a new piston , before it beats itself to death inside the cylinder wall.
When it comes to two stroke bike motors I am admittedly ignorant and feverishly working on it.
But i bet after the time ,care, time and money that went into my motor i will quit running cheapo 2t oil, and get myself an hour meter,and check my top end at any sign of trouble.
. Head gaskets can be annealed, base gaskets are cheap, measuring tools are inexpensive as well. I could have pulled the top end off and spec'ed my cylinder a half dozen times for the extra I spent on the bottom end, after a failed piston. I am
Opinionated people never learn
I think in the states we say refer to this as
Having your head stuck too for up your rear to see the light of day.
But really though everyone has different ways of doing things, different riding styles, different temperatures and terrain.
I know after dropping a skirt, on a motor that had unknown history and audible piston slap and going through the extra effort of splitting the cases , replacing bearings etc. I will certainly opt for more caution.
I was told the piston would eventually go, I had known idea it would happen the first time I cracked 8500 rpm and slapped third.
If you got a tapping sound that gets suddenly louder after an overrev or hard running especially if it is loudest at idle and moderate free revving, better get that cylinder bored and a new piston , before it beats itself to death inside the cylinder wall.
When it comes to two stroke bike motors I am admittedly ignorant and feverishly working on it.
But i bet after the time ,care, time and money that went into my motor i will quit running cheapo 2t oil, and get myself an hour meter,and check my top end at any sign of trouble.
. Head gaskets can be annealed, base gaskets are cheap, measuring tools are inexpensive as well. I could have pulled the top end off and spec'ed my cylinder a half dozen times for the extra I spent on the bottom end, after a failed piston. I am
/\ Does that make you a piston Nazi? Maintenance Nazi?
The motor in my '02 is of the '98 vintage (according to the serial numbers) and on the original bore, yet has a new wiseco crank set, an undetectable amount of bigend bearing play.
(I got really lucky when my piston shattered, a piece of it fouled the plug almost immediately.)
Anyhow the bore was worn quite a bit, (due to a header flange leak suckling in dust dirt and moisture) and had apparently been honed when the cast pro-x piston was put in. If it weren't for the header leak causing visible damage to the piston, and excessive wear on the bore, I have no doubt it would still be running.
Let's say a piston isn't exposed to detonation, excessive dirt and grit, proper clearance,oil film stays intact,etc. would the piston still likely fail from the stress of normal operation, or is it much more likely that the cylinder would fall out of spec first,
The motor in my '02 is of the '98 vintage (according to the serial numbers) and on the original bore, yet has a new wiseco crank set, an undetectable amount of bigend bearing play.
(I got really lucky when my piston shattered, a piece of it fouled the plug almost immediately.)
Anyhow the bore was worn quite a bit, (due to a header flange leak suckling in dust dirt and moisture) and had apparently been honed when the cast pro-x piston was put in. If it weren't for the header leak causing visible damage to the piston, and excessive wear on the bore, I have no doubt it would still be running.
Let's say a piston isn't exposed to detonation, excessive dirt and grit, proper clearance,oil film stays intact,etc. would the piston still likely fail from the stress of normal operation, or is it much more likely that the cylinder would fall out of spec first,
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LOL maintenance n*zi ,just kidding/\ Does that make you a piston Nazi? Maintenance Nazi?
View attachment 25380
Normally the piston should be the one that get's the most beating, alu is softer then the steel liner so when it starts clapping, the piston should give up first.
But when clapping around, it will get more and more play before giving up so exponentialy putting more hammering force on the cyl. at the same spot everytime again and again, done that maybe with let's say with 2 pistons on one bore....
You can guess the result..
That's what i think, never had a piston that long in that it could fail from wear.
case leak and cast Vertex piston:View attachment 25380
/\ Does that make you a piston Nazi? Maintenance Nazi?
The motor in my '02 is of the '98 vintage (according to the serial numbers) and on the original bore, yet has a new wiseco crank set, an undetectable amount of bigend bearing play.
(I got really lucky when my piston shattered, a piece of it fouled the plug almost immediately.)
Anyhow the bore was worn quite a bit, (due to a header flange leak suckling in dust dirt and moisture) and had apparently been honed when the cast pro-x piston was put in. If it weren't for the header leak causing visible damage to the piston, and excessive wear on the bore, I have no doubt it would still be running.
Let's say a piston isn't exposed to detonation, excessive dirt and grit, proper clearance,oil film stays intact,etc. would the piston still likely fail from the stress of normal operation, or is it much more likely that the cylinder would fall out of spec first,
Normally the piston should be the one that get's the most beating, alu is softer then the steel liner so when it starts clapping, the piston should give up first.
But when clapping around, it will get more and more play before giving up so exponentialy putting more hammering force on the cyl. at the same spot everytime again and again, done that maybe with let's say with 2 pistons on one bore....
You can guess the result..
That's what i think, never had a piston that long in that it could fail from wear.
case leak and cast Vertex piston:View attachment 25380
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