removal of stator bolt

[jfblasterboy65]

hey all been a long time since ive been on here, got another bottom end for my blaster and was gonna do the diy 4 degree timing mod on it but the screw on the bottom will not come out and i stripped the head..... any easy out suggestions for me? the top one i had an easy out that i tapped on and used a ratchet and it came right out, the bottom one not so much...... need to get em out so i can order new ones from work please help me out!!

 

[scotj77]

try hammering a #3 philips into it and turn the screwdriver with a cresent wrench while putting a lot of downward force on the screwdriver. if that will not bite you can cut a grove into it for a flatblade screwdriver. it won't be ez but you can get it out with some time

 

[blasterBruce]

If that don't work you can try and use Vise grips if you can get to the screw in there !

 

[JBRoc01blaster]

I had the same problem before and used both those suggestions, I hammered enough of a imprint in the screw with a flat head to catch, and used the vise grips at the same time. Once you get it loose you can just use the flat head so it wont take forever with the vise grips

 

[best]

First off, buy yourself an impact driver:

About $20-$50 and try to avoid the cheap chinese knock offs. Spend money on a good name brand.

If you can get at it a vise grip on the head of it or cutting a slot in the head with a Dremel or a hacksaw works for a stripped Philips head.
The worst problems are when the head is stripped down in a deep hole like the stator where you cannot get a hacksaw or dremel on it.
That is when I get out the nut extractor. Made for stripped nuts, they will also work on bolts and screw heads:

I have a set of these, they are THE BOMB. Again, buy a name brand set.

Now is even these won't do it, and the part comes apart along the same axis as the bolts, I drill the head of the bolt off with a slightly larger drill than the shank.
So if it a 6mm bolt like holds the case halves, I use a 6.5mm or 7mm drill or SAE equivalent.

So, to remove a tough Philips screw in a tough location, here are my steps:

1) Impact driver, whether stripped or not, I loosen all the bolts with the impact driver.
2) No go? Heat. Propane or MAPP gas to the head of the bolt, penetrating oil, impact driver again.
3) Stripped? Vise grips, cut a slot, or nut extractor.
4)Cannot get access? Put a nut over the screw head and MIG weld it to the screw, penetrating oil, socket.
5) No room or no go, drill the head of the screw off, pull apart and remove screw shank with heat and oil and vise grips.
6) REPLACE ALL PHILIPS WITH HEX or ALLEN HEAD SOCKET SCREWS!

 

[jfblasterboy65]

^^ yeah i meant to borrow an impact driver but i forgot bout it and just tried doing it the way i did my other motor with a screw driver hammer and vicegrips...... not so lucky and that other tool u showed yah im deff looking into getting a set of those, also was thinking of weding a nut ontop of the screw and backing it out that way hopefully it works

 

[blasterBruce]

Careful about the welding near the stator , if it gets too hot it will be junk !

 

[jfblasterboy65]

Was gonna try jbweld well see though

 

[iLikeIke]

i just had that issue and i drilled the head off, like a rivet and after the stator was off there was more than enough to grab with pliers, came right out

 

[York Racing]

Was gonna try jbweld well see though

Theres no way JB Weld will hold a nut on it.

 

[blasterBruce]

Yeah I don't know about the Jb weld holding up to a stator bolt-screw , why did they use a Phillips head anyway , that was a dumb idea from the get go haha

 

[BGmins]

Can also use a torx bit.

 

[best]

JBweld or a torx bit will not get a stuck 6mm Philips head screw out.
Listen to Ilikeike and drill the darned thing, sheesh.
I gotta stop giving long-winded, all-encompassing solutions I guess.
How about this:

First off, buy yourself an impact driver:

About $20-$50 and try to avoid the cheap chinese knock offs. Spend money on a good name brand.

If you can get at it a vise grip on the head of it or cutting a slot in the head with a Dremel or a hacksaw works for a stripped Philips head.
The worst problems are when the head is stripped down in a deep hole like the stator where you cannot get a hacksaw or dremel on it.
That is when I get out the nut extractor. Made for stripped nuts, they will also work on bolts and screw heads:

I have a set of these, they are THE BOMB. Again, buy a name brand set.

Now is even these won't do it, and the part comes apart along the same axis as the bolts, I drill the head of the bolt off with a slightly larger drill than the shank.
So if it a 6mm bolt like holds the case halves, I use a 6.5mm or 7mm drill or SAE equivalent.

So, to remove a tough Philips screw in a tough location, here are my steps:

1) Impact driver, whether stripped or not, I loosen all the bolts with the impact driver.
2) No go? Heat. Propane or MAPP gas to the head of the bolt, penetrating oil, impact driver again.
3) Stripped? Vise grips, cut a slot, or nut extractor.
4)Cannot get access? Put a nut over the screw head and MIG weld it to the screw, penetrating oil, socket.
5) No room or no go, drill the head of the screw off, pull apart and remove screw shank with heat and oil and vise grips.
6) REPLACE ALL PHILIPS WITH HEX or ALLEN HEAD SOCKET SCREWS!

Oh, and don't borrow an impact driver,
BUY AN IMPACT DRIVER.
You should be using one every time you take case screw apart, until you replace them will Allen head socket screws...

 

[Blaaster]

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