More races than you know are won and lost days before the green flag drops.
The best rider on the trickest bike can loose easily if he doesn't do his homework.
Proper race prep takes time. It takes a few dollars, but well worth it. you won't win if you dont finish. You wont win if a mechanical problem slows you down.
before every major race, I would take my bike down to a bare frame, clean everything, inspect the frame swing arm a-arms etc for any cracks, abnormal wear etc. I would replace the swing arm pit bearings, bushings and seals, axle carrier bearings , and seals, clean and inspect the a-arm bushings, replacing as needed, change shock oil in all shocks, replace the throttle and clutch cables, freshen the top end and bottom end, new clutch new reeds etc... these were for races like the baja 1000, 24 hour endurance races etc.
you dont have to go that far, but you should do a complete bare frame at least twice a year, top ends should be honed and new rings every 50 hours and a new piston twice a year. clutch basket should be checked every 2 or 3 races. shock fluid 2 or 3 times a season. cables once a season. if your frame is more than a couple years old, spray bomb it, don't powder coat. powder coating can hide cracks. have a couple air cleaners, oiled in zip lock baggies ready to go. change the tranny fluid every race weekend. if the chain is worn replace it. basic maint. stuff.
now here are a few key things..
Gusset your frame like the pik
Locktite everything but the smallest screws
replace the screws on the case, clutch cover and stator cover with allenheads
use an aftermarket clutch basket.
use UNI filters, not k&n's and oil the hell out of it and grease the lip well.
did I mention loctite??
take the time to adjust your bars and controls so the are the most comfortable.
put a set of the james lucky peg extenders on (the ones that hook up at the end, there cheap)
use GOOD 2 stroke oil and tranny oil.
Dont majorly crank down on the handle bar clamps. if you crash hard, it's better that the bars give a little instead of your legs breaking.
even if your running mx and don't have a skid plate run a belly plate. if you case hard it will not only protect your frame but will allow you to "slide" thru the case instead of getting pitched.
invest in an EGT (you can get them for under $100 on ebay if you look) and jet your bike right, check it before every race at the race site if possible. spot on jetting can give you up to 20% more power over a motor the just seems to run ok.
if you have adjustable shocks, spend the time to get them dialed in perfect, not close, perfect. even if they are brand new. everyones riding style is different, some like stiff suspension, some like soft...generally as you get better your suspension should get softer as you are riding smoother. Those new shocks set for +2 arms 145 lb intermediate riders or however you ordered them ..that is just a manufactures ballpark guess as to what you will like, put them on and ride race style, turn the clickers and think about what needs to be changed and send them back. you paid big bucks for trick shocks and they should come with a 30~60 day adjustment period where they will revalve and re spring them free.
Keep the bike clean.
Dont skimp or half azz anything..it will bite you at the the worse time, if you strip a nut, bolt or screw, it can b fixed easily
Use Wiseco pistons, they don't come apart.
Check your tie rod ends!!!!!! ymaha has known they are weak for 20 years, replace them once a year and after every MAJOR crash of if they (thread part) is even the slightest bit bent.
Use OEM gaskets not after market. Use them dry, don't use gasket sealer onless it absolutely wont seal, first figure out WHY it won't seal.
use the factory reed stops
never reuse cotterpins. I use hitch pins with ziptie keepers wherever possible.
keep all electrical connections clean and shiny and look for crimped wires.
glue AND safety wire your grips. replace bent bars levers etc.
most of this is common sense, it just gets neglected, other specifics I have mentioned are things I have learned during the last 20 years racing nd working on blasters. it all seems simple but I have seen too many people (including myself) spend a lot of money, travel a few hundred miles to do a race, only to have it cut short because a $7.oo part failed.
The best rider on the trickest bike can loose easily if he doesn't do his homework.
Proper race prep takes time. It takes a few dollars, but well worth it. you won't win if you dont finish. You wont win if a mechanical problem slows you down.
before every major race, I would take my bike down to a bare frame, clean everything, inspect the frame swing arm a-arms etc for any cracks, abnormal wear etc. I would replace the swing arm pit bearings, bushings and seals, axle carrier bearings , and seals, clean and inspect the a-arm bushings, replacing as needed, change shock oil in all shocks, replace the throttle and clutch cables, freshen the top end and bottom end, new clutch new reeds etc... these were for races like the baja 1000, 24 hour endurance races etc.
you dont have to go that far, but you should do a complete bare frame at least twice a year, top ends should be honed and new rings every 50 hours and a new piston twice a year. clutch basket should be checked every 2 or 3 races. shock fluid 2 or 3 times a season. cables once a season. if your frame is more than a couple years old, spray bomb it, don't powder coat. powder coating can hide cracks. have a couple air cleaners, oiled in zip lock baggies ready to go. change the tranny fluid every race weekend. if the chain is worn replace it. basic maint. stuff.
now here are a few key things..
Gusset your frame like the pik
Locktite everything but the smallest screws
replace the screws on the case, clutch cover and stator cover with allenheads
use an aftermarket clutch basket.
use UNI filters, not k&n's and oil the hell out of it and grease the lip well.
did I mention loctite??
take the time to adjust your bars and controls so the are the most comfortable.
put a set of the james lucky peg extenders on (the ones that hook up at the end, there cheap)
use GOOD 2 stroke oil and tranny oil.
Dont majorly crank down on the handle bar clamps. if you crash hard, it's better that the bars give a little instead of your legs breaking.
even if your running mx and don't have a skid plate run a belly plate. if you case hard it will not only protect your frame but will allow you to "slide" thru the case instead of getting pitched.
invest in an EGT (you can get them for under $100 on ebay if you look) and jet your bike right, check it before every race at the race site if possible. spot on jetting can give you up to 20% more power over a motor the just seems to run ok.
if you have adjustable shocks, spend the time to get them dialed in perfect, not close, perfect. even if they are brand new. everyones riding style is different, some like stiff suspension, some like soft...generally as you get better your suspension should get softer as you are riding smoother. Those new shocks set for +2 arms 145 lb intermediate riders or however you ordered them ..that is just a manufactures ballpark guess as to what you will like, put them on and ride race style, turn the clickers and think about what needs to be changed and send them back. you paid big bucks for trick shocks and they should come with a 30~60 day adjustment period where they will revalve and re spring them free.
Keep the bike clean.
Dont skimp or half azz anything..it will bite you at the the worse time, if you strip a nut, bolt or screw, it can b fixed easily
Use Wiseco pistons, they don't come apart.
Check your tie rod ends!!!!!! ymaha has known they are weak for 20 years, replace them once a year and after every MAJOR crash of if they (thread part) is even the slightest bit bent.
Use OEM gaskets not after market. Use them dry, don't use gasket sealer onless it absolutely wont seal, first figure out WHY it won't seal.
use the factory reed stops
never reuse cotterpins. I use hitch pins with ziptie keepers wherever possible.
keep all electrical connections clean and shiny and look for crimped wires.
glue AND safety wire your grips. replace bent bars levers etc.
most of this is common sense, it just gets neglected, other specifics I have mentioned are things I have learned during the last 20 years racing nd working on blasters. it all seems simple but I have seen too many people (including myself) spend a lot of money, travel a few hundred miles to do a race, only to have it cut short because a $7.oo part failed.
