Putting engine BACK together, tips, tricks, ideas wanted!

Divineinc

Divineinc

New Member
Jun 11, 2012
27
1
3
NW Arkansas
I'm looking for tips, tricks, ideas on how to put an entire engine together starting at all the pieces cleaned and laying out on the table. I have the Clymer's manual, a box of assorted C Clips, full (hopefully) gasket set, O-ring set, and some kind of sealant Napa told me would be good for putting the case together.
We tore the case apart trying to find out why the shifter won't work but found nothing wrong, even after rolling the rods on glass to see if they were out of whack. We finished wire brushing all the parts and are ready to put it back together. I've been reading a bunch of threads on this and that but was hoping for a concentrated thread on just putting it back together.
Thanks all ahead of time!!
 
Firstly, what gasket set OEM or Cometic, is the base gasket green paper material, if so proceed no further.

You need Yamabond 4 or Threebond for the case halves.

When assembling be sure to put a fair amount of the 2 stroke oil of your choice on all of the components that are crancase related.
 
Yep, seen that video. It's a really good video but half the work is already done when it starts. I'm looking for a bit more info throughout the process.
 
Do not entertain using the jug base gasket if it is of green paper composition, it is just asking for trouble with leakage.

The cases must be joined with a silicon based sealant which is impervious to gasoline.

I don't know about the Napa stuff it is a new one for me in Oz.

Lay off spraying PB blaster on the bearings, liberally coat them with 2 stroke oil that you will be using.

Put a couple of tablespoons of 2 stroke oil that you will be using in the crancase before you fit the jug, making sure that the main bearing feed holes get some.
 
Divineinc said:
Here's a link to what I bought. It's not the same guy but same item in the picture:
YAMAHA BLASTER YFS200 200 COMPLETE GASKET SET | eBay

I don't think it's either the Yamabond 4 or Threebond. Just some Napa brand stuff.

I was worried about spraying/soaking the parts with bearings in PB Blaster. Do I need to repack those with grease or what?
Click to expand...

Divineinc said:
Yep, seen that video. It's a really good video but half the work is already done when it starts. I'm looking for a bit more info throughout the process.
Click to expand...


Do not use those green gaskets! The K&S and also Winderosa are junk. Stock yamaha or cometic gaskets should be your only option! DO NOT PUT GREASE IN ANY BREARING! All of the tranny bearings use tranny type F or what ever gear oil you decide to go with. The rod and main bearings will get oiled from the 2-stroke oil you use again, I use super M- I wouldn't soak em as you do not want any oil/dirt ect on the case halves when you seal them up! I would also LAP the case halves while you have them apart, to give you a great seal! As far as tips You should have a the proper tools for re assembly, the crank installer is a must, a couple guys have make there own version!
 
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It's too late for laying off the PB Blaster, smaller parts were soaking for about a week and the case was sprayed a couple of times. The motor was sitting in a oil and water mix for a couple of years but we think we have everything cleaned up good now.

Can I put TOO much 2 stroke oil in the case before putting back together?
 
What do you mean by "LAP the case halves"?

I was worried about the crank tool must have. I'll look into the homemade versions. Any links for that?
 
There should be enough oil in the crancase so that the rotating crankshapt picks up oil.

If you put in too much oil you are going to have problems with starting and fouling plugs. 2 tablespoons seems a good amount.
 
Divineinc said:
What do you mean by "LAP the case halves"?

I was worried about the crank tool must have. I'll look into the homemade versions. Any links for that?
Click to expand...

Place a piece of 400 to 600 grit wet and dry on a sheet of plate glass and in a figure of 8 motion lap the case halves.

Methylated spirits should be used as a lubricant as you need an oil free case so the sealant will bond.
 
Divineinc said:
What do you mean by "LAP the case halves"?

I was worried about the crank tool must have. I'll look into the homemade versions. Any links for that?
Click to expand...


Lapping means- bringing to a flat surface!

I have a 1" thick piece of HDPE, I put two sheets of emery cloth on it with some wd40 or general purpose oil, and make about 10 figure 8's, i then look to see if the surface has "sanded even, no low spots/high spots, I did this to both sides of the cases also where the flywheel cover and clutch cover go on, Clean it all off with non chlorinated brake cleaner- then slap it together
 
O.K. Gotcha!
I'll be making the puller/installer myself now!

Excellent info from everybody!

Any other ideas like "make sure you do/don't do that..." or "don't forget to have this..."?
 
slickerthanyou said:
Lapping means- bringing to a flat surface!

I have a 1" thick piece of HDPE, I put two sheets of emery cloth on it with some wd40 or general purpose oil, and make about 10 figure 8's, i then look to see if the surface has "sanded even, no low spots/high spots, I did this to both sides of the cases also where the flywheel cover and clutch cover go on, Clean it all off with non chlorinated brake cleaner- then slap it together
Click to expand...

how much can this be done before it tends to tense up everything inside?? or will this even happen?

i ask because i have two case halfs with "ding" marks on the inside seam, from it being takin apart long ago and moved around so much apart that it had collected marks on the seams that i know wont seal.



Too divineinc did you check the shifter forks to make sure they are not bent? You said you cleaned the shafts and couldnt find any problems.
 
Triplecrown421 said:
how much can this be done before it tends to tense up everything inside?? or will this even happen?

i ask because i have two case halfs with "ding" marks on the inside seam, from it being takin apart long ago and moved around so much apart that it had collected marks on the seams that i know wont seal.



Too divineinc did you check the shifter forks to make sure they are not bent? You said you cleaned the shafts and couldnt find any problems.
Click to expand...

That is a good question I have no answer for! I haven't gotten that far yet! And now I'm on a fresh bottom end from the 05, only been lapped once! So it's more than once! JB weld those dings then lap it!
 
slickerthanyou said:
That is a good question I have no answer for! I haven't gotten that far yet! And now I'm on a fresh bottom end from the 05, only been lapped once! So it's more than once! JB weld those dings then lap it!
Click to expand...

we have jb ding marks under the clutch cover and lapped them and worked a1. Its what i was gonna do to this one but i may be able to just lap it the way it is.

lol ive had my ways with the JB
 
I did check the shifter forks by cleaning them real well then slowly rolling them on glass paying close attention for any movement. They are as straight as an arrow.
I still have no idea why it wasn't shifting. We slowly took each part off and kept checking to see if it would shift but nothing until we split the case. I'm assuming (and hoping) it was just something a tiny bit out of whack on the shifter drum that will hopefully be fixed by removing, cleaning then re-installing.
 
check this out

This is a video of how to check your shifting shafts and forks you should really check both.

Ken has a collection of videos on his rebuild. pretty much answering all your questions.
 
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